Oil Change


R

RKGT

GT Owner
Apr 3, 2007
26
Boise, Idaho
I'm getting ready for my 06 GT's first oil change. Do dealers lift the car using a drive on ramp lift, or a std. lift, and which one is prefered? I'm concerned about the dealer lifting it, although he says they have done several of them with their std. lift. I do have a 4 post drive on ramp lift in my garage and was wondering how difficult it is to change the oil myself? I know that the panels underneath the car will have to be removed, but is this quite a bit of work that I should have the dealer do?

Thanks,
RK
 
Do it your self, that kind of lift will make it easy, there are no special {hard to find} tools required.

Invest in a Ford GT Workshop Manual from Ford.:cheers
 
'Quick answer: if you can do it yourself - do it yourself.

Use the site's "search" feature re: oil changes. There's a WEALTH of info there.

Be sure WHOMEVER does the oil change PRIMES the oil system "per factory instructions" prior to the engine being started afterward.
 
Drive on lift is the absolutely safest way, no falling off or bent panels due to poor placement. Will usually have the hydraulic center jacks to lift the car from the proper lifting points. Be SURE they have planks to get the car up on the ramps withoout scraping the front and rear spoilers.
 
Frank's recommendations are very good. Need a gentle ramp up if a drive on lift is used so as to not damage the front air dam. Drive on is safest as listed but is a little more cumbersome in getting to all the underpan fasteners. It certainly can be done, and if dealer does it, it is his burden.

Changing our GT's oil is not difficult if you research the topic on this forum. Many, many owners have gone before you and done it themselves with great success, and satisfaction.

Search, read and study the previous posts.
Take your time and enjoy your work.
Use a torque wrench on all fittings to recommended torque values.
Remove all three drain plugs.
Snap new filter into plastic body (with an audible snap) before reinstalling canister back on engine.
Use only the recommended Ford Motorcraft 5W-50 oil.
Prime dry sump system after adding new oil/filter per prescribed method.
Check for leaks before reinstalling pans.
Pat yourself on the back for saving $300 and enjoying your afternoon working on you supercar.
 
This may help.

Ford GT Oil Change Procedure

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. Refer to section 100-02. Open the engine cover.
2. Remove the oil filter cap (6A832) from the oil filter adapter. The used oil in the oil filter housing will automatically drain into the engine when the cap is loosened. The sealing o-ring will remain with the cap.
3. Remove the oil filter element from the housing and discard the element.
4. Install a new oil filter element and replace the cap. Ensure that the sealing o-ring is in place. Tighten the oil filter cap to 25Nm (18 lb-ft).
5. Raise the vehicle.
6. Remove the 21 bolts retaining the rear engine under-body panel (63106B08) and remove the panel. (Illustration A0094313)
7. Remove the 19 bolts retaining the front engine under-body panel (115A74) and remove the panel. (Illustration A0094314)
8. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the oil reservoir and drain the oil reservoir. (Illustration A0089407)
9. Remove the two engine oil sump / oil pan drain plugs and drain any residual oil from the engine. (Illustration A0000058, with modification to point arrows to the drain plugs).
10. Reinstall the engine oil pan / oil sump drain plugs. Tighten the plugs to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
11. Reinstall the oil reservoir drain plug and tighten to 25Nm (18 lb-ft). (Illustration A0089407)
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Refill the oil reservoir with 9.5 quarts of Motorcraft 5W-50 full synthetic oil (XO 5W-50 QGT) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C931-A..
14. Start the engine check for oil leaks.
15. Raise the vehicle.
16. Reinstall the front engine under-body panel and the 19 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 7Nm (62 Lb-in). (Illustration A0094314)
17. Reinstall the rear engine under-body panel and the 21 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 7Nm (62 Lb-in). (Illustration A0089407)
18. Lower the vehicle.
19. Check the oil sump level after running the engine. The level must be checked with 1 minute of shutting off the engine.
20. If the oil level is between the MIN-MAX marks on the dipstick, the oil level acceptable.
21. If the oil level in the sump is below the MIN mark, add oil in small amounts to raise the sump level to within the MIN-MAX range. Do not overfill the reservoir past the MAX mark on the dipstick.

Start up procedures:
1. Turn the key to the on position.
2. Hold the accelerator pedal on the floor.
3. Push the start button.
4. Let it crank until you see oil pressure via the gauge in the dash or for 20 seconds.
Upon seeing pressure, let up on the start button, BEFORE you let up on the pedal.
5. Release the pedal and then start normally.
 
FYI - took me about 6 hours to change the oil in mine the first time.
 
pe2unia said:
This may help.


Start up procedures:
1. Turn the key to the on position.
2. Hold the accelerator pedal on the floor.
3. Push the start button.
4. Let it crank until you see oil pressure via the gauge in the dash or for 20 seconds.
Upon seeing pressure, let up on the start button, BEFORE you let up on the pedal.
5. Release the pedal and then start normally.
Click to expand...


I need a clarification on this part.

I believe if you do this procedure, the engine will indeed start.... Shouldn't step 1 & 2 be reversed?

Either way, be careful.

mardyn
 
These start-up steps as described should be inserted as step 13.1 through 13.5.

The procedure is correctly stated:

13.1: Turn the key fully-on
13.2: Depress the go pedal to the floor and hold it
13.3: Pust start button and hold for 20 sec or until oil pressure seen on gauge
13.4: Let up on start button
13.5: Start car normally - should see oil pressure within ~1 second

Also, I like to remove the pans before doing the oil filter, AND I always shove a large towel under the filter cannister to catch any oil that may drip.

Removing the pans beforehand gives you a chance to make a quick inspection of critical components. Before removal, thump on the pans gently with your fist to see if you can produce any rattles. If so, look for the source. With the pans off, look at;

1. Any traces of fluid on the top of the pans and reference where it may come from.
2. Look at the engine oil cooler approximately underneath the filter housing. Look for any seepage.
3. Look for oil seepage at the black cover of the oil pump drive belt.
4. Look for power steering pump leakage (1 or two drops is "normal", IMO)
 
Thanks for all of excellent information and details and quick replies, much appreciated! I'll give it a try myself! As always, this forum and it's members are very responisve, knowledgeable, helpful, and first class!

RK
 
Hey Mardyn-

According to my printed out posts, you have asked this start procedure several times in the past. WRITE it DOWN. Every time this procedure is challenged it causes concern, frustration as to whether it is correct and scariness in trying it out. Follow the posted procedure....

What has been posted above in Nota4re's and pe2unia's post IS CORRECT.
 
Sorry for the confusion....
 
this is also discussed in the FAQ section..
 
DO IT YOURSELF!!!!! It took myself and a Ford mechanic 4 hours on a two post lift!!!!
 
Faster on a 4 post after doing once before. Some mechanics frown on power tools, but a low torque adjustable electric screwdriver speeds up the process.
 
I just changed my engine & transaxle oil this weekend.
I drove the rear wheels onto 4x6's, then jacked up the rear of the car
and put wood blocks under the rear wheels (12-14"??), then threw down a piece of old carpet.
Like others, probably spent 4-5 hours, used power screwdriver and 1/4" drive ratchet.
Went very smoothly.
I also installed magnets in the motor oil drain plugs......
 

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Find a reliable Ford Dealer with a FGT trained tech, drop your car off, and pick it up later. Find a great sushi bar, spend the afternoon enjoying yourself, call up your mistress, etc, etc, etc.
 
I did the job myself recently. Backed her up on gorilla ramps and did the job on the ground with hand tools in the garage. Took me an afternoon but it was a priceless experience for me to do something manually and shut my mind of for a period of time.
 
AtomicGT said:
Find a reliable Ford Dealer with a FGT trained tech, drop your car off, and pick it up later. Find a great sushi bar, spend the afternoon enjoying yourself, call up your mistress, etc, etc, etc.
Click to expand...

thats funny everytime I spend time working on my gt I feel like she is my mistress!!!
 
thats funny everytime I spend time working on my gt I feel like she is my mistress!!!
Click to expand...

Agreed, that's why LarryS' idea of being on the bottom and lying on an old piece of carpet can also remind you of your youth!
 
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