KMCBOSS
RED GT owner
All thanks very much your response. Just trying to find something that will tow the GT or my BOSS without having to buy a new truck also. The F150 I have has a 7200# GVWR rating so these two trailers are in the ball park! Ed
New Trailer for Hauling GT w Photos
- Thread starter FlorIdaho Chris
- Start date
Apollo
GT Owner
I think 20" is the shortest you would want. I may have been given erroneous information, but as I understand it, you may want to reconsider the deck above wheels if you are loading different cars. At least that is what I was told when I was shopping. Depending where the weight of your car is distributed, the deck above wheels may not be optimum for all of the cars when loaded, the door may be too far forward or back. Also the weight is higher, angle of ramps for loading, and a few others I don't remember. You may ask a few that have the doors if they use it for different cars. I should have but never did.
I do know that if you use a winch set up with a remote, you can load and unload the car very accurately and safely by yourself even without having a door. :thumbsup You can also use the wench set up if your significant other is small and can crawl out of the driver window for loading and unloading...I am fortunate enough to have both systems.:biggrin
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
That's pretty punny.
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
Same with mine. I think my Dodge 1500 with the trailer pack is good so something close to 10K. I towed my bob cat with it no problems.
fjpikul
GT Owner
Just to comment on the spare tire. After getting flats on long trips on the outbound leg of the trip, I started carring a spare spare tire. It is not mounted, but at the track, easy to get it mounted, or find a tire shop to mount. Eliminites the risk, of trying to find the right size / brand etc. I started doing this, when I got a flat at Mid Ohio (12 hours from home). it took up a lot of time to source a replacement (away from the track), if I had the spare spare, would have been simple. I now do this.
KMCBOSS
RED GT owner
Anyone have an opinion on Payless aluminum trailers. Saw half a dozen for sale on ebay yesterday - brand new 22' less than $6K. Maybe new players in the aluminum trailer market?
2112
Blue/white 06'
centerpunch
ex-GT owner x2
There's an enclosed Trailex on ebay at a great price, (it's on a rebuilt title. but who cares!)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170579261872
The owner's a Ford guy, too.
I was going to get it, but decided that I just wanted one with more headroom inside- this model is less than 5' tall inside, so some "normal" cars wouldn't fit. (And you'd have to walk all hunched over.)
A GT would probably fit fine, and this one is about 1/3 the cost of a new one.
Uses 14" tires, which I was worried about, but I see that Tire Rack has Kumho trailer tires in that size in load range D, should be great for this trailer.
Thought someone here might be interested in the listing.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170579261872
The owner's a Ford guy, too.
I was going to get it, but decided that I just wanted one with more headroom inside- this model is less than 5' tall inside, so some "normal" cars wouldn't fit. (And you'd have to walk all hunched over.)
A GT would probably fit fine, and this one is about 1/3 the cost of a new one.
Uses 14" tires, which I was worried about, but I see that Tire Rack has Kumho trailer tires in that size in load range D, should be great for this trailer.
Thought someone here might be interested in the listing.
GTdrummer
GT Owner
A few minutes ago, I PM'd centerpunch the following but I thought it may be best to share with all. The net is that I now have a LOT of trailering experience - especially wuith the GT's and I am very biased on a set-up that works extremely well, is very safe, and is very efficient time-wise. I think NOTHING of loading up a client's GT in the trailer for even a short 12 mile jaunt over to the dyno. Loading, transporting, and un-loading is just so darn easy that it is no bother. Here's my thoughts....
The best trailer, IMHO is a Featherlite v-nose aluminum trailer - with NO DOOR. If your Featherlite does not come with it, add e-track to the floor. E-track kits can be purchased from E-bay inexpensively. The e-track to be spaced such that the tires of the vehicle you will most frequently transport will be in the miiddle of the e-track. Purchase a battery, battery hold down, winch, and winch remote (recommended) and install in the front of the trailer. Since we haul primarily GT's, I off-centered my winch to align with the tow hook position of the GT. Wire the battery such that the tow vehicle will charge it while towing. In 2 years, I have never charged the trailer's battery and the trailer spends most of its time parked in storage. Put a battery disconnect switch for safety between the winch and battery. Buy the e-track, over-the-tire tie-downs from Summit. Get 4 of them. Finally, if not equipped on your Featherlite, add a 12" aluminum flap extension at the end of the ramp with a piano hinge.
This is the "tits" set-up. Loading and un-loading is an absolute breeze. You will be the envy of anybody loading/un-loading and I guarantee you will will do it faster and safer than any other configuration. Here's the procedure:
1. Park the truck/trailer on level ground or in a slightly up-hill orientation. If only level, induce an uphill orientation on the trailer by winding down the trailer's jack - while letting it remain hitched.
2. Drive the car partially onto the ramp, centered as best as possible and set the parking brake.
3. Connect the on-board winch to the car and take out the slack.
4. Release the parking brake and turn the key on so you can steer the car through the open driver's window.
5. Winch the car making small steering adjustments if needed. The e-track will help you to align the car side to side.
6. I leave the front-side of the front right strap attached to the e-track as a guide for how far to pull the car in, stopping 1" from this cleat.
7. IMPORTANT: Temporarily disconnect the battery from the winch with the battery disconnect so no accidental winching with car strapped.
8. Place and cinch down all 4 over-the tire straps.
9. Reconnect the winch to battery and give it a tad of slack. Diconnect winch from battery for transporting.
10. Remove key from car (set parking brake if desired).
Unloading is even easier.
1. Again, orient trailer in slight up-hill orientation.
2. Remove 3 over the tire straps leaving front-right for last.
3. Connect battery to winch and then remove last strap.
4. Release car parking brake if set.
5. Use remote to let winch out and car will back out of trailer - typically NO steering adjustment is needed.
Why I like the Featherlite over other trailers and set-ups:
1. Beavertail in floor makes for very low-angle ramp. I routinely load lowered GT's with NO boards or ANYTHING else. Just my 12" flap extension.
2. Winch eliminates need to crawl in and out of car through the door.
3. No trailer side door means lower deck height and lower (safer) cg while towing.
4. Aluminum construction means the trailer is light for towing.
Anyway, I hope this helps. Why don't I like the side-door trailers?
1. Deck height is very high to clear wheel wells to allow the car's door to open.
2. High deck heght requires long ramps and storage/deployment time/energy.
3. Low ceiling height (sometimes)
I can load or unload a GT I would say in roughly half the time with half the energy.
Now you have my biased $.02.
The best trailer, IMHO is a Featherlite v-nose aluminum trailer - with NO DOOR. If your Featherlite does not come with it, add e-track to the floor. E-track kits can be purchased from E-bay inexpensively. The e-track to be spaced such that the tires of the vehicle you will most frequently transport will be in the miiddle of the e-track. Purchase a battery, battery hold down, winch, and winch remote (recommended) and install in the front of the trailer. Since we haul primarily GT's, I off-centered my winch to align with the tow hook position of the GT. Wire the battery such that the tow vehicle will charge it while towing. In 2 years, I have never charged the trailer's battery and the trailer spends most of its time parked in storage. Put a battery disconnect switch for safety between the winch and battery. Buy the e-track, over-the-tire tie-downs from Summit. Get 4 of them. Finally, if not equipped on your Featherlite, add a 12" aluminum flap extension at the end of the ramp with a piano hinge.
This is the "tits" set-up. Loading and un-loading is an absolute breeze. You will be the envy of anybody loading/un-loading and I guarantee you will will do it faster and safer than any other configuration. Here's the procedure:
1. Park the truck/trailer on level ground or in a slightly up-hill orientation. If only level, induce an uphill orientation on the trailer by winding down the trailer's jack - while letting it remain hitched.
2. Drive the car partially onto the ramp, centered as best as possible and set the parking brake.
3. Connect the on-board winch to the car and take out the slack.
4. Release the parking brake and turn the key on so you can steer the car through the open driver's window.
5. Winch the car making small steering adjustments if needed. The e-track will help you to align the car side to side.
6. I leave the front-side of the front right strap attached to the e-track as a guide for how far to pull the car in, stopping 1" from this cleat.
7. IMPORTANT: Temporarily disconnect the battery from the winch with the battery disconnect so no accidental winching with car strapped.
8. Place and cinch down all 4 over-the tire straps.
9. Reconnect the winch to battery and give it a tad of slack. Diconnect winch from battery for transporting.
10. Remove key from car (set parking brake if desired).
Unloading is even easier.
1. Again, orient trailer in slight up-hill orientation.
2. Remove 3 over the tire straps leaving front-right for last.
3. Connect battery to winch and then remove last strap.
4. Release car parking brake if set.
5. Use remote to let winch out and car will back out of trailer - typically NO steering adjustment is needed.
Why I like the Featherlite over other trailers and set-ups:
1. Beavertail in floor makes for very low-angle ramp. I routinely load lowered GT's with NO boards or ANYTHING else. Just my 12" flap extension.
2. Winch eliminates need to crawl in and out of car through the door.
3. No trailer side door means lower deck height and lower (safer) cg while towing.
4. Aluminum construction means the trailer is light for towing.
Anyway, I hope this helps. Why don't I like the side-door trailers?
1. Deck height is very high to clear wheel wells to allow the car's door to open.
2. High deck heght requires long ramps and storage/deployment time/energy.
3. Low ceiling height (sometimes)
I can load or unload a GT I would say in roughly half the time with half the energy.
Now you have my biased $.02.
BlackICE
GT Owner
Kendall great instructions and reason why! :thumbsup
I remember reading somewhere, don't try to move a FGT by turning the wheel spokes with your hands. :ack
I remember reading somewhere, don't try to move a FGT by turning the wheel spokes with your hands. :ack
Trailex & Featherlite
Gentlemen,
As most of my trips are 1000+ miles, I like the Trailex because it's lighter, lower, and (if you order it that way) smaller than the Featherlight. I pull mine 80+ MPH for hours on end. Kendall is right about the ramps being a PITA though so if most of my trips were short I would go with the Featherlight. I use the side door a lot especially at events like the Texas Mile where it creates a big shade awning (and rain shelter) we put chairs under. It's nice to be able to open the door, get into the GT, start it and just back out. I also use a winch and E-Track with over the tire straps which is the hot setup. The Featherlight is roomier, taller, and has no side door but the lack of ramps still makes it easier to load. The Trailex pulls easier at high speeds with less drag because it's lower and allows you to get in your GT easily while it's in the trailer. Both are great trailers. Cheers.
Chip
Gentlemen,
As most of my trips are 1000+ miles, I like the Trailex because it's lighter, lower, and (if you order it that way) smaller than the Featherlight. I pull mine 80+ MPH for hours on end. Kendall is right about the ramps being a PITA though so if most of my trips were short I would go with the Featherlight. I use the side door a lot especially at events like the Texas Mile where it creates a big shade awning (and rain shelter) we put chairs under. It's nice to be able to open the door, get into the GT, start it and just back out. I also use a winch and E-Track with over the tire straps which is the hot setup. The Featherlight is roomier, taller, and has no side door but the lack of ramps still makes it easier to load. The Trailex pulls easier at high speeds with less drag because it's lower and allows you to get in your GT easily while it's in the trailer. Both are great trailers. Cheers.
Chip
Attachments
Yeah, I think that was Cantwell...... and then there's my "finger incident" which required two not-so-fun surgeries to correct. With the car in the trailer and the steering wheel un-locked, I was trying with all of my strength to turn the front right tire straight when my hand slipped off the tire - except for one finger which bent all the way backward. This occured when I was loading my GT for the trip to the Vegas GT Rally. OUCH!!!
BlackICE
GT Owner
2112
Blue/white 06'
Chip, Does your driver's door easily clear the TrailEx side door to allow easy ingress and egress?
Yes, there is a lot of clearance top, bottom, front, & back. You can easily open the drivers door the full 90 degrees without coming close to touching anything. Look at FloriIdaho Chris's pictures on post #1 in this thread.
Chip
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