Randy, sorry to read about your misfortune. Don't worry as I am sure all will be better soon. Your tech may be very competent. Having done dozens of axle bolt upgrades, I offer the following:Today, they extracted 3 bolts on one side, 1 bolt on the other side, and are using the 4G7Z-4B490-A for both axles and removing and replacing all bolts and all washers
1. As there are only two axle bolts per side, I assume it was a typo above to indicate that 3 bolts were extracted on one side. :eek
2. Tech should re-tap holes and with the tap, thread depth should be checked. We've seen cars with nice threads but where there was significant loc-tite build up at the end of the hole. If not checked and corrected, the new bolts can give a false torque reading where they are actually bottoming instead of tightening against the new washer. Only 1 car in 10 will have this build-up, but 10 cars in 10 should be checked for it prior to assembly.
3. As a precaution and as long as you're "in there", I would highly recommend following TSB 05-10-13. In short, I would advise that immediately before installing the washer, clean the surface immediately behind the washer which is the end of the splined output shaft. (Transaxle fluid will have a tendency to seep down the splines and into the coupling.) With this surface cleaned, you can smear some black RTV around the perimeter of splined axle surface before installing the washer and new axle bolts.
4. It is very important to follow proper torque procedures. There are too many mechanics who have convinced themselves that they have a torque wrench build into their elbow. Don't let this happen.
5. The outer bolts around the coupler also have a specific 2-step torque procedure. This can be done more efficiently if the tire is slightly lifted from the ground so that the axle can be rotated into positions where the to-be-torqued bolt can be accessed with the torque wrench. If the bolts are not numbered prior to doing this process, you are virtually assured of straying from the procedure.