Q: First time service ever in this GT40

[Art138]

Here is the oil pump belt referred to earlier in the post....:

 

[ChipBeck]

Sorry for the bad reference, I thought it was the GT40, but obviously the new one is just the GT, my bad/mistake, feel like idiot, but hey I was excited with this car that I wrote a wrong model name for it.

Lots of owners (including me) refer to it as a GT40 to eliminate confusion with the Mustang GT. The proper term for the 60's originals was "Ford GT" as well, but most people refer to those original 134 Ford GT's as GT40 today.

Chip

 

[DiegoR]

Thanks for the tips and help all you. We finally managed to bleed the coolant system sucesfully. The only left work to do is change the transaxle oil and S/C oil. All these fluids were factory filled and been like 6 years since and only 900k miles on the clock.

The transaxle seems to have a very small leak...here are few photos.

We did remove the hex nuts in the block, both sides, to empty the old coolant as well.

Transaxle small leak.

All the coolant from engine and intercooler plus a bit more that was taken off from the hoses and radiator by pressurizing the systema a bit.

-Diego

 

[nota4re]

Great pics.

There is no need to change the SC fluid. Up to you if you want to. If so, I would recommend sucking it out. From empt to full, it will take about 1.8 of those bottles. Again, I don't think there's a need.

Regarding the tranasaxle "leak" - I doubt it. It is very common for non-cooler equipped cars to collect some fluid at the bottom of the transaxle. The transaxle does a good job of superheating the oil so that you get a foggy mix from the vent (top passenger side of transaxle) and then the oil collects and runs down the side of the transaxle. Some owners have elected to put a vent breather which address the symptom while other owners have elected to address the problem - and have installed a transaxle cooler. Some owners have done both but our experience is that the breather is not necessary when the cooler is installed.

 

[DiegoR]

Thanks for the tips.

Now I need to change the transaxle fluid. I think I need 4 quarts of MOTORCRAFT FLUID - TRANSMISSION #(XT75W90QGT) ?

Also, it’s necessary to add Motorcraft rear axle additive friction modifier XL-3 (4 oz. bottle)? If so, how many bottles is needed (I would guess just one if it's the case).

Thanks for the support.

-Diego

 

[BlackICE]

Thanks for the tips.

Now I need to change the transaxle fluid. I think I need 4 quarts of MOTORCRAFT FLUID - TRANSMISSION #(XT75W90QGT) ?

Also, it’s necessary to add Motorcraft rear axle additive friction modifier XL-3 (4 oz. bottle)? If so, how many bottles is needed (I would guess just one if it's the case).

Thanks for the support.

-Diego

No additive just the recommend oil.

 

[STORMCAT]

man That clutch fluid looked horrible.. It started out as clear fluid,, A moisture check would have been a moot point. :biggrin

I have the Transaxel vent and cooler on my car. If the owner is not going to track the car the vent extension / breather is a good option. A friction modify in the Transaxel could affect the LSD function. Stick with the recommended Motorcraft product. The GT will be happy with the new fluids .. Nice photo work !!

 

[DiegoR]

So I got the car at the shopp to change the transaxle fluid that I finally sourced thanks to a member of here that directed me to a vendor who supply the right fluid. WHile we were draining the fluid, I found bit of (not so "bit") dirty/debris of the oil drain plug seal stuff I guess or the seal used to assamble the gearbox housing? But mostly the aluminum particles which surprise me that with only 1k miles on the clock we cand find this...opinions/suggestions?

Thanks for looking.

Sure there is more of this debrisalu. particles in the remaining oil inside the transaxle/drain can we used.

 

[STORMCAT]

Most of what I can see is not unusual. I am sure Kendal will comment later. He's drained more tran-axles than I. As you know the particles stuck to the magnets contain iron and will be there from normal gear wear. I have seen some iron chucks stuck to the magnet maybe created from a missed shift / gear grind.
Some of the aluminum would be from the original milling , machining and drilling that didn't get flushed out or blown out before assembly.
As far as the seal material. it could be from a number of places . Has the car ever had a tranny cooler? There are seals at the out put shafts. Small O-ring at the speed sensor. There are three taps on top of the tranny for the breather and circulating lines.. I would clean all the filters, plugs, magnets etc,.. remove all of the fluid and use all new fresh fluid. If the Trans-axle is not leaking any where and it is shifting fine I would not be concerned about the debris.

 

[nota4re]

Great pictures! All looks normal. I always try to encourage owners to change transaxle fluid at year 1 (regardless of miles). Kind of feel bad sometimes as I don't want to be interpreted as trying to up-sell anyone. The reality is that this first transaxle fluid change will almost always look nasty .... but subsequent changes (every 3 years) will look much better. (Fuzzy magnet looks "normal" too!)

 

[Wwabbit]

Also recommended is the transaxle oil change per the manual. Some have commented on a noticeably smoother 2nd gear shift.

+1 ---Absolutely do the transaxle, based on time alone and it does seem to improve 2nd gear.

 

[RALPHIE]

I've been doing mine every 15,000 miles (I'm do for the 4th change). The 1st one was the worst - lots of debris and dark color. Since then each change looks like new lubricant. My guess is that Ricardo never flushed the units before shipment due to the urgency of the build program. However, no harm, no foul - as almost all of the transaxles have been flawless. As far as I know, just a couple with a 3rd gear synchro-weld issue and one with a case flaw.

 

[DiegoR]

Thanks for the replies. Seems to be "normal" or at least for the first time. I will be back here if we get any news.

Again, thanks for the feedback-suggestions guys.

 

[DiegoR]

Now, we can add this GT to the gauge fail list. VAC/BOOST gauge won't read after few attempts or cycling the IGN key or start/shut down the engine. Also the tach among the water temp gauge won't work smetimes. Already read the various threads about the gauge failure so I think this GT will rest like it came from factory with their own factory gauges.

 

[RALPHIE]

Now, we can add this GT to the gauge fail list. VAC/BOOST gauge won't read after few attempts or cycling the IGN key or start/shut down the engine. Also the tach among the water temp gauge won't work smetimes. Already read the various threads about the gauge failure so I think this GT will rest like it came from factory with their own factory gauges.

I think your battery may be going...gauges may come back with a battery change. Try push starting the car to see if the gauges work when not using the starter motor.

 

[roketman]

NO worry.A lot of people refer to the car as a GT 40 as not to confuse it it with a Mustang GT. My license plate even says GTEE40!
The owner of the car must get swarmed by on lookers by being the only one with a Gt

 

[DiegoR]

I think your battery may be going...gauges may come back with a battery change. Try push starting the car to see if the gauges work when not using the starter motor.

Battery seems to be in good health and last time we checked with the diagnostic stations, it passed the test. When I cycle the IGN ON, I wait couple of seconds to come the trip counter display and "self test" (if that happens in a hiden way?) of the cluster before push the Start button, and most of the time, either the tach won't work along with teh temp gauge and boost/vac gauge. Next cycle the tach will work (it's very rare that the tach fail) but again the two previous gauges won't wake up! After several start/shutt down cycles (the engine crank strong) they will start reading normaly, so I suspect by doing this , it doesn't have to do anything with the battery health or it shouldn't be the direct cause of this situation.

NO worry.A lot of people refer to the car as a GT 40 as not to confuse it it with a Mustang GT. My license plate even says GTEE40!
The owner of the car must get swarmed by on lookers by being the only one with a Gt

You bet it!:thumbsup

 

[JAYGT]

I ran a telescoping magnet tool like they sell in the auto part stores through the oil drains of the transaxle and was able to pick up a bunch of shavings that the magnet hadn't caught.