Need more HP? How about some Ram air intake block off plates?

[BlackICE]

With help from Shadowman, I made these block off plates. Now the airflow has a much straighter path to the air box! Note the stock version has the air bending 360 degrees! Of course these have no protection from the rain. If these are used in the rain the air filters would become saturated and plugged up.

I will paint them black to match tomorrow.

I hope these squeeze out a little more HP for the Mojave mile. :wink

 

[427Aggie]

Early on there were alot of discussions about those openings and what they accomplish. Some thought that taking out the baffles would actually gain HP. Tried it and it did nothing. After talking to the engineers at Ford, when we were at the first rally, the baffles were there for a specific reason. They had problems with too much air going across them and causing the MAF to freak out so this stopped the cross air action.

The limiting factor of the intake isn't the air you can get in its the air cleaner box. Don't know that this really will do anything for you but I am more concerned that you took out the baffle that will cause you problems with the air across the MAF not just the water issue.

Also I would worry about heat. You still have air coming in from the side scoops I guess but even with those openings into the car we still get so much heat I have to wonder if restricting the air into that confined space will cause any other problems...

Good luck at Mojave....best thing I found at the Texas Mile was lots and lots of tape on the front end over every seam. Also Torrie's cooling box will be a huge help to keeping the heat down in the SC cooling lines.

 

[Specracer]

And if you get a good cross wind, at idle, the mass air flow sensor will get freaked out and the car will run funny for a bit. That is how these openings came to be.

EDIT, Matt and I are posting the same thing at the same time.....

 

[thegtguy]

Stalling

As per Ford engineering. Those J ducts, as we call them, are there for a reason and I am posting this because it may be a safety issue. Those are there so when you get a cross wind across the car it will allow the air to come into the side inlets and allow the pressure to vent into the engine bay and not blow directly onto the MAF sensor causing the car to stall at idle. This is why the J duct makes the air do a circle before it can enter the air box. I see this may be a safety issue because if you do this and are going 200mph, cross the finish line push in the clutch to slow down, it may and probably will stall. Now you are going 200mph with no power steering and probably 2 pumps with power brakes.
We have seen this from other tuners and always recommend removing them. Usually the first complaint is that "my car is stalling when I push in the clutch and come to a stop".
As with any "go fast" setup there are tradeoffs, driveability, mileage, tire issues, etc., but we don't want to see anyone get hurt.

But what do I know.

 

[shesgotlegs]

It doesn't seem to take much to get my car's idle to tremble. I use a back pack style leaf blower to dry my car after washing it and notice " idle stumble" everytime the blower gets near the holes.

 

[427Aggie]

Thats just the canadian air that she doesn't like

 

[shesgotlegs]

Thats just the canadian air that she doesn't like

Lol I like to think that my blower has got talent.

 

[RALPHIE]

Lol I like to think that my blower has got talent.

A bad blow job can be dangerous and unsatisfying...:lol

 

[soroush]

A bad blow job can be dangerous and unsatisfying...:lol

oh thats good:lol

 

[B.M.F.]

There should be no reason this wouldnt work. Other than a tuner issue. You can take and blow turbo air and blower air across this very same maf meter (Ie same meter on GT500 and Various other fords) and lift and there is way more airflow arcoss the meter upon intial t.b closing than there would be with those ducts. This is what the Air Idle Control Motor is for. Not only that is we do it in a 3.5 inch tube versus the big oval of the FGT. We have done if for years and had no problems. From the 87 up mustang a9l computers to present computers, Gm, ford all with a maf sensor and blow threw. Something a tuner should be able to figure out.

There is air idle decay and a few other things, that could cure the stalling at low speeds, Possible adjustment of opening the t.b and adjusting iac parameters. But there still could possible be a issue at 40mph plus, a bypass valve in the air box would release the air pressure and should cure all issues. Also a car with stand alone with a map sensor will not have these problems.

Im building huge tubes for my car, i'll post some pics when i get a chance. with a map sensor there will be no problem as it reads pressure after the t.b.

 

[B.M.F.]

Also if the car stumbles and dies. That most likely because of the extra air across the meter is making it rich.

 

[BlackICE]

As per Ford engineering. Those J ducts, as we call them, are there for a reason and I am posting this because it may be a safety issue. Those are there so when you get a cross wind across the car it will allow the air to come into the side inlets and allow the pressure to vent into the engine bay and not blow directly onto the MAF sensor causing the car to stall at idle. This is why the J duct makes the air do a circle before it can enter the air box. I see this may be a safety issue because if you do this and are going 200mph, cross the finish line push in the clutch to slow down, it may and probably will stall. Now you are going 200mph with no power steering and probably 2 pumps with power brakes.
We have seen this from other tuners and always recommend removing them. Usually the first complaint is that "my car is stalling when I push in the clutch and come to a stop".
As with any "go fast" setup there are tradeoffs, driveability, mileage, tire issues, etc., but we don't want to see anyone get hurt.

But what do I know.

Great feedback from one of the real Ford GT experts! I didn't think about the idle issue, but now that it is brought to my attention I can see how and why that would happen and it would be a BIG concern for me if the engine died at the end of the mile.

I will have to rethink my approach. :frown:confused

 

[427Aggie]

I experienced the problem with the air on my GT500 when I put the shelby SS hood on before they baffled it. I had the cold air intake and the problem isn't too much air over the maf its air going the wrong way over the maf. When the blades shut on the TB it pushed the air back over the MAF and it went crazy. The baffles handle the same thing and the engineers said they had problems where strong gusts of wind would make the car shut down because the maf got confused.

There were ALOT of good stories. Like why we have 2 latches on the clamshell instead of the 1 they started out with. That story has a very pissed off Windtunnel engineer involved :rofl

 

[Specracer]

And a SLIGHTLY deformed clamshell......

There were ALOT of good stories. Like why we have 2 latches on the clamshell instead of the 1 they started out with. That story has a very pissed off Windtunnel engineer involved :rofl

 

[B.M.F.]

I experienced the problem with the air on my GT500 when I put the shelby SS hood on before they baffled it. I had the cold air intake and the problem isn't too much air over the maf its air going the wrong way over the maf. When the blades shut on the TB it pushed the air back over the MAF and it went crazy. The baffles handle the same thing and the engineers said they had problems where strong gusts of wind would make the car shut down because the maf got confused.

There were ALOT of good stories. Like why we have 2 latches on the clamshell instead of the 1 they started out with. That story has a very pissed off Windtunnel engineer involved :rofl

Kumar can attest that 1 latch will hold @ 220

 

[jbyrnes]

if you're looking for some extra HP...

I would think that for a mile run an effective way to get some cheap extra HP would be to run the intercooler lines through a cool can with some dry ice in it. I'd guess the SC compressed air temp will be reduced another 50 deg or more which would up the air density a noticeable amount. Would need the octane to take advantage of it though, but assume you'd already be doing that.

 

[kmillen]

We experienced exactly what others have mentioned with our car. Steve and one of our techs were out driving the car after some work had been performed one day. They pulled up to a stop sign and were sitting there idling watching a few of the parameters on the scan tools. All of a sudden, for no real reason, the car stumbled and died. It fired right back up and carried on just like normal. Then they pulled up next to a curb to let it idle and see what could have caused that. They were watching the data and our tech says he lifted his eyes to see through the windshield and happened to catch a breeze blowing some trees around, then the car stumbled and died again. After that experience, he went straight to the office, called our contacts at the Ford engineering department and they confirmed that cross winds can affect the MAF and cause the car to stumble. Keep in mind, our car was a prototype car. We do not have those vents on our car. With all that being said, I'm pretty sure we just accepted that at idle, this is something that just might happen and we moved on. I don't think we made any changes to the car or the intake system.

 

[shesgotlegs]

We experienced exactly what others have mentioned with our car. Steve and one of our techs were out driving the car after some work had been performed one day. They pulled up to a stop sign and were sitting there idling watching a few of the parameters on the scan tools. All of a sudden, for no real reason, the car stumbled and died. It fired right back up and carried on just like normal. Then they pulled up next to a curb to let it idle and see what could have caused that. They were watching the data and our tech says he lifted his eyes to see through the windshield and happened to catch a breeze blowing some trees around, then the car stumbled and died again. After that experience, he went straight to the office, called our contacts at the Ford engineering department and they confirmed that cross winds can affect the MAF and cause the car to stumble. Keep in mind, our car was a prototype car. We do not have those vents on our car. With all that being said, I'm pretty sure we just accepted that at idle, this is something that just might happen and we moved on. I don't think we made any changes to the car or the intake system.

You sure its not to do with the fuel filler door system?

 

[B.M.F.]

We experienced exactly what others have mentioned with our car. Steve and one of our techs were out driving the car after some work had been performed one day. They pulled up to a stop sign and were sitting there idling watching a few of the parameters on the scan tools. All of a sudden, for no real reason, the car stumbled and died. It fired right back up and carried on just like normal. Then they pulled up next to a curb to let it idle and see what could have caused that. They were watching the data and our tech says he lifted his eyes to see through the windshield and happened to catch a breeze blowing some trees around, then the car stumbled and died again. After that experience, he went straight to the office, called our contacts at the Ford engineering department and they confirmed that cross winds can affect the MAF and cause the car to stumble. Keep in mind, our car was a prototype car. We do not have those vents on our car. With all that being said, I'm pretty sure we just accepted that at idle, this is something that just might happen and we moved on. I don't think we made any changes to the car or the intake system.

So your clamb must also have the cosmetic carbon bottom? Then its got the carbon tubes from those vents to the air box I would assume..
Very interesting.

 

[kumar]

Need more HP?

Get rid of the MAF and stock airbox.