Clutch/brake fluid change

[BlackICE]

And I'll bet that's becuase their brake fluid hasn't been changed in, oh, 9 or 10 years.

:agree: The reservoir's volume is quite small, soon the wet boiling point will be reached. I like jcthorne's suggestion, just change the fluid periodically in the reservoir.

 

[nota4re]

And I'll bet that's becuase their brake fluid hasn't been changed in, oh, 9 or 10 years.

This was Rally 2 in LA so I think the fluids were presumably very good.

 

[Indy GT]

Kendall, you beat me to the same point.

Peter, the condition of the clutch pedal going to the floor after spirited driving happened at our second rally in 2007. So your thoughts about old fluid do not pertain to this observed issue. All the GT's at this time were relatively "new".

 

[texas mongrel]

The clutch pedal problem is instantly cured by installing a transaxle cooler. The throw out bearing is buried inside the housing so when the gearbox gets hot, voila, the fluid boils. I could only run one 20minute track session in Houston before getting floppy pedal syndrome. Fitted the cooler (which is an easy and fun bolt-in) and never had a problem since, no matter how hard I run.

 

[STORMCAT]

I agree with Kendall on this point. Ron likes to tout Castrol SRF which is a fine brake fluid for the penultimate racer. Most of us do not drive our cars at this level and the SRF fluid is by far the most expensive fluid option for any car. There are a number of other readably available fluids at slightly lower “wet boiling point” temperature capabilities and at significantly lower costs. And to interject that Ford did ALL the FGT development work on our car (including extensive track development) on the standard OE DOT3 Ford brake fluid. It actually is a very capable fluid (my notes list it at 500°F dry/284°F wet), is very inexpensive but absorbs moisture quickly requiring frequent changes to keep fluid temperature capacity near the listed dry value.

I think PeterK’s comment on replacement frequency is spot on. Changing the fluid in the brake system as well as our clutch system (to a lesser extent) is by far the more significant action than selecting the most expensive fluid to use. Kendall’s suggested RBF 600 has a listed Dry/Wet temperature capacity of 594/421F which is not too far off the Castrol SRF values of 590/518F while 48% less costly (last time I priced out fluids which do change over time). For additional reference the Ford DOT3 P/N PM-1C fluid (500/284F) is 66% less costly and the very popular ATE Type 200 fluid (536/396F) is 72% less costly. Point is there are many options.

And I echo PeterK’s comment on not using DOT 5 silicon based fluid.

All North American brake fluids for use in our cars must comply with DOT Standard #116: “Motor vehicle brake fluids” which states in paragraph S5.1.14 that any DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5.1 (non-silicon based fluid) must be “colorless to amber”. This is what finally got ATE to pull their very popular ATE Super Blue fluid from the market (it did not comply with this requirement). Thus I am not quite sure what is meant by the comment “the SRF is dark by definition”. The certification requirement is that the fluid is to be colorless to amber, so maybe SRF is just amber relative to colorless observed in other fluids?

Sorry Bill,, SRF for the brakes all the way.. I guess $50 in to much to spend on you $200K+ car... :biggrin:biggrin It is simply the best for the street and track. There are others that are good but none match the limits in performance and protection,,

 

[STORMCAT]

The clutch pedal problem is instantly cured by installing a transaxle cooler. The throw out bearing is buried inside the housing so when the gearbox gets hot, voila, the fluid boils. I could only run one 20minute track session in Houston before getting floppy pedal syndrome. Fitted the cooler (which is an easy and fun bolt-in) and never had a problem since, no matter how hard I run.

The clutch pedal going to the floor and not coming back is typically caused by the check valve sticking. There is a long post from Alex one of the GT team memebers here on the site somewhere. Clean fluid will usually cure the sticking problem. .. Alex did send me a stronger check valve but I never installed it.

 

[nota4re]

Sorry Bill,, SRF for the brakes all the way.. I guess $50 in to much to spend on you $200K+ car

Maybe there's some kind of street attributes of which I am not aware but at the track where we are spending most of our weekends - we see Motul being used much more frequently than the SRF. If you are at or above the limits of the Motul, there's either something wrong with your brake system and/or your driving.

 

[STORMCAT]

Maybe there's some kind of street attributes of which I am not aware but at the track where we are spending most of our weekends - we see Motul being used much more frequently than the SRF. If you are at or above the limits of the Motul, there's either something wrong with your brake system and/or your driving.

You didn't pick copy my last statement.. " There are others that are good but none match the limits in performance and protection,,"
You are correct most people will never get their brakes hot enough to test the limits of their fluid, and if just want something good use Motul or whatever you favorite is.. But at some point once in a while a guy might track his car or do some unusually heavy braking and even the best fluid may boil if it hasn't been maintained properly... SRF gives you more of a safety margin in all cases.
In my case the carbon brakes love to get hot and be used. The hotter they get the better they stop.. For this I'm going to use the best stuff I can get my hands on and not worry.. So I will stick with my statement.. Nothing wrong with my brakes and as far as my driving well.. I don't know... :biggrin:biggrin Love ya Kendall ..!!

 

[BlackICE]

IMO for normal street driving almost any DOT3 approved fluid will work just fine. My practice is to always flush out the old fluid and fill for fresh fluid before a track event. New dry fluid beat the best old wet fluid every time! For those that drive often on the track, at higher quality brake fluid with a higher wet temp will save you a lot of labor and is well worth the additional cost.

 

[Specracer]

You should see what my "gray" calipers look like.... They are now gold, from heat. The combination of ATE and Padgid blacks did not work well at NOLA. I stayed within what that package offered and was still motoring the car around, but not ideal. This year, Girodisc rotors on the front, Padgid yellow, and SRF. Judging by my body accelerometer, created some good negative G's under braking (IE ones butt, and not scientific in any way). Also the heat I generated (shown by the color change), the brakes, were working better than ever. I will stick with this package if we go to the track again.

Then there is Stormcats brakes.... that how its done.... Its a good thing (for my wallet) that package doesn't fit under OEM wheels....

 

[Cobraguy]

Specracer....I had a chance to ride with Rocketman in Stormcat's car at R9 and the brakes are indeed incredible......now as far as"floppy pedal syndrome" goes, aside from my brake fluid issues, I'm happy to report that I've never suffered from this affliction ! ;-)

 

[Specracer]

Yes driving his car is pretty neat to be able to throw it in that deep and it slows with out drama.

So lots of rambling, change out the fluid and you will be back in business.

 

[andymlow]

You should see what my "gray" calipers look like.... They are now gold, from heat. The combination of ATE and Padgid blacks did not work well at NOLA. I stayed within what that package offered and was still motoring the car around, but not ideal. This year, Girodisc rotors on the front, Padgid yellow, and SRF. Judging by my body accelerometer, created some good negative G's under braking (IE ones butt, and not scientific in any way). Also the heat I generated (shown by the color change), the brakes, were working better than ever. I will stick with this package if we go to the track again.

Then there is Stormcats brakes.... that how its done.... Its a good thing (for my wallet) that package doesn't fit under OEM wheels....

Did I read that correctly that Girodisc makes rotors for the GT? Cost? Part number? Thx

 

[Specracer]

Yes they do, I ordered direct from them:

http://www.girodisc.com/Rotors_c_345.html