Cat Delete Project

[Fubar]

Here are some project pix (I always like it when Shadow throws a couple of these up):

Cats came out today.

At least one manifold tomorrow.

 

[Fubar]

Extrude hone is basically a process where they flush a thick, metallic liquid through the manifolds which smooths out the manifolds and allows the exhaust to flow better. Similar to a port and polish.

Would you do this on a headers to polish this inside?

 

[BlackICE]

Would you do this on a headers to polish this inside?

No, headers are built with steel tubes which are already smooth on the interior. Extude Hone is used to smoothing out and to a very small extent enlarge the inside of the air passages of rough cast parts.

 

[kmillen]

Like blackice said...no. It would not be necessary.

 

[Fubar]

It was inevitable but it still sux:

 

[Fubar]

Extrude hone is basically a process where they flush a thick, metallic liquid through the manifolds which smooths out the manifolds and allows the exhaust to flow better. Similar to a port and polish.

OK, so I really like this idea. I have two questions:

1) Would you want to put a ceramic coating on the manifold after it has been honed? It seems like you would want to keep the perfectly smooth surfaces left behind by the extruding process.

2) The place I called seems a little pricey and mention a 3 weeks minimum turn around. Do you have a good company in mind?

 

[kmillen]

I would recommend doing the extrude hone first then doing the ceramic coating. That is the process that we are going to do.

Extrude honing is not cheap but it is worth it. What price were you quoted?

I just found out that our project has been put on hold because the turn around from extrude hone is 6 weeks. We can't wait that long.

 

[B O N Y]

mark
Contact me if you want to borrow my manifolds, have them honed, coated and then installed on your car. Then you can send me back yours. I am running headers and have mine boxed up.
cheers,
daniel

 

[Fubar]

Hey Bony, I really appreciate that, however the idea of wrapping my whole engine in blue tape and taking this thing apart again is... uh not appealing at the moment.

If I can't stand another day without a ride in the GT I might fly out there and let you take me for a spin. Thank you again.

 

[Shadowman]

It would appear that the project has been well defined and is moving forward; thumbs up

BTW did you also replace the starter?

All the best

Shadowman

 

[Fubar]

It would appear that the project has been well defined and is moving forward; thumbs up

BTW did you also replace the starter?

All the best

Shadowman

No, no... I just thought it was a bit comical that I was working on my American muscle car and "Made in Japan" keep staring me in the face.

 

[Fubar]

In fact I do not use OEM nuts but rather copper exhaust nuts so as to eliminate corrosion as time goes by

FYI the studs come out easy just take your time.

Two questions Shadow:

1) Several of the studs came out on their own (attached to the nut). I assume they were loosely fitted b/c of the aluminum block. What do you torque them back on to?

2) Local parts shop sounded dazed when I asked for copper nuts of this sort. Do you recommend a certain source or should I just keep calling around?

 

[BlackICE]

Two questions Shadow:

1) Several of the studs came out on their own (attached to the nut). I assume they were loosely fitted b/c of the aluminum block. What do you torque them back on to?

2) Local parts shop sounded dazed when I asked for copper nuts of this sort. Do you recommend a certain source or should I just keep calling around?

1. That is a good thing. They didn't seize and wreck the threads on the heads.

2. http://www.bildon.com/catalog/results.cfm?category=Exhaust&SubCategory=Components&Nav=7

I don't know what size the nuts are, since I never took them off. Also I don't know the torque value on the studs. But I would guess use the appropriate very high temp. anti-seize on the threads and then snugged, but not too tight, maybe 5 - 10 ft lbs. I will defer to Shadowman's reply.

p.s. When you are done I would like to get your opinion on the level of effort and time for this process. It is something I may do in the future. I have the FRPP cat delete pipes into a Heffner now and didn't want to do more than that yet since I dread the thought of removing the exhaust manifolds.

 

[Fubar]

I can tell you this much so far... the most difficult thing about the whole procedure has been trying to figure out how to get the manifolds out of the engine compartment once they were detached. Personally I found the passenger side much more difficult for some reason. I have not been in a hurry so when I get a little frustrated I just take a brake. That has made the job much more pleasant than many of my past garage projects.

On a scale of 1 to 10, disassembly has been about a 6 for me. Putting it back together may be a different story. I may need the GT Guys to keep their schedule open.

 

[ViperJoe]

... the most difficult thing about the whole procedure has been trying to figure out how to get the manifolds out of the engine compartment once they were detached.

Remove the transaxle mount bolt and jack up the tranaxle. This will provide more than enough clearance. Be careful - the manifold flange studs can easily scratch the frame. I'm working on my 2nd R&R project so I've amassed considerable hands-on experience. Drop me line if you need personal guidance.


I just noticed this is my 703 post. Can't be right!

.

 

[BlackICE]

I believe Shadowman told me that he removes all of the studs 1st, to minimize damage and to aid removal.

 

[nota4re]

I've had the manifolds on and off a couple of times. Just remove all of the studs and it is a piece of cake.

 

[Fubar]

1. That is a good thing. They didn't seize and wreck the threads on the heads.

2. http://www.bildon.com/catalog/results.cfm?category=Exhaust&SubCategory=Components&Nav=7

I don't know what size the nuts are, since I never took them off. Also I don't know the torque value on the studs. But I would guess use the appropriate very high temp. anti-seize on the threads and then snugged, but not too tight, maybe 5 - 10 ft lbs. I will defer to Shadowman's reply.

The nut size is 13mm (odd size?) the thread is M8X 1-25. Can't seem to find that match anywhere. Shadow... any recommendations?

 

[BlackICE]

The nut size is 13mm (odd size?) the thread is M8X 1-25. Can't seem to find that match anywhere. Shadow... any recommendations?

Here is some, but they are in the UK. The nut size in not important except they must be small enough for clearance to turn them and large enough to torque correctly. PM Shadowman he must have a supplier in the US.


http://www.workshopsupplies.co.uk/index1.html

 

[Fubar]

Shadowman recommended www.wurthusa.com as a source for the copper nuts (Part # 036561). I had to order 60 so if anyone needs a few... I have extras.