Accufab exhaust, tune, & pully warped my vents.


Chip and I talked about this the other day. I have been working on this for a while.

I have an appointment set with a shop to see about getting them made from aluminum.

At the moment looking at the difference between CNC produced pieces and cast. I also am looking in to doing the finished pieces in an anodized black so they may be able to stand alone without painting. Definitely the side ones would.

Should know something soon.

Also thinking about a heat sheild between the exhaust and the clamshell. Have some ideas that I am already working on..

I'll keep you all posted.
 
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I wrapped my Accufab Pipes, makes a huge difference. I'll try to take some pictures.
 
Here is a link to the thread that I initiated many many months ago.

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3228

Takes care

Shadowman
 
Could someone please post pics of actual warped vents ?
Rock
 
STORMCAT said:
I wrapped my Accufab Pipes, makes a huge difference. I'll try to take some pictures.
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I'm thinking of doing this as well as I get mine fitted. I'd guess that it reduces the sound level in the cabin as well, with all the nice noise going where it should....straight out the back.
 
I hate to hear of this happening to anyone's car. Given the variety of cars and combinations that this has happened to I'd say that where and how the cars are driven are big factors. I have never installed an Accufab system but it doesn't look to me that it is especially close to the clamshell. On the initial car that our pulley / tune combination was developed and tested on we did take some exhaust temperature readings and found no significant differences between the tuned car and stock. Actually in most instances our EGT's were slightly cooler, even under wide open throttle which is not uncommon when you are running less fuel through the engine. When you run as rich as the factory tune does it can tend to burn some excess fuel in the exhaust system and catalytic converter which will yield significantly higher exhaust temperatures. Another though that comes to mind is the difference in cam timing from one engine to another. While experimenting with can timing on a car a few weeks back we noticed that advancing the exhaust cam would raise the exhaust temperature by as much as ~200 degrees. There is some possibility that there is enough variation in cam timing between two cars to cause this. Replacing the vents with a more durable material is great but it would be nice to nail down a common thread between cars that are having this issue and actually identify a cause.
 
My first mod was the Heffner tune and pulley with the accufab which was done at the Wixsom rally. Then went to the Whipple with the accufab exhaust and now running Shadowman headers with short cats.
My vents are fine!


But Kip.... Need cf replacements... Pls Kip, pretty please :)
 
Oh I like the CAM solution..now maybe I can get Ford to pull the engine and degree the cams under warranty since they didn't seem to want to do it when they built the motors.

Its been discussed many times at the rally with the builders of the motors that they weren't allowed to degree our CAMs in which is believed to be the cause of such huge differences in HP on the motors from the factors...some are just right some are within spec but don't get the umph.

I'm just kidding..like I'm letting anyone pull the motor...sheeze
 
I have a MMP pipe and Dyno tune and all was fine until about 3000 miles. Now I"ve got some droop. Todd is completely bone stock and the dealer just installed his new set of vents last month (7000mi). A friend has had a Borla with a pulley, tune and no cats drives VERY hard and his are OK (6000mi.). Go figure:confused!
 
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SteveA said:
A friend has had a Borla with a pulley, tune and no cats drives VERY hard and his are OK (6000mi.). Go figure:confused!
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That's what I'm sayin. I have the Heffner Exhaust, pulley and tune and I think I'm probably near the top of hard drivers and with 8000 miles mine remain fine.
 
PL510*Jeff said:
Hello All-

Richardhead - ceramic coatings do reduce temps. Even more if you the interior of the pipes are coated rather than just the outside.
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Sorry I wasn't clear....I just assumed everyone always ceramic coats both inside and outside. The cost just isn't that much more...if any on some jobs.
 
Chip
Mine warped with in three months bone stock. I received my GT last July brand new. I am in Scottsdale as well. My car is far from stock now does not seem any better or worse. 5 star Ford replaced my vents under warranty about 3 weeks ago.They gave me no hassle what so ever. In fact they treat me like royalty. I would suggest you get with them to fix your warpage issue.Please feel free to contact me if i can do any thing to help. Kurt
 
I had Bob Ida installed his exhaust system and had them wrapped. One thing I noticed is that his system was angled toward the rear grill away from the air box and vent. He also did a cool air mod by blocking the engine bay air inlets and removing inner clamshell baffles. 100% cool air intake. Installed Wipple. No warped vents, but a lot of burnt rubber on my 300' driveway.

Hubert
 
I was told by an anonymous team member today that they had a few problems with the vents being warped on stock cars, but it wasn't a common problem. So, not just a particular exhaust manufacturer problem. Although, designs that put the pipes near the vents and clamshell obviously have more of a potential for a problem. I once asked a team member about a year ago why they didn’t run the exhaust up higher in the engine bay so you could see it (I always loved that look of the exhaust coming over that back of the motor on the first prototype). He said that having the pipes closer to the clamshell and other components in the engine bay was part of the decision to go underneath.

For me, FRPP full header exhaust jet hot coated from the headers to the edge of the tips. When I had my Ferrari Challenge Stradale or my Lamborghini Diablo 6.0 and parked them in the garage after a drive and shut the garage door, then came back an hour later it was unbearably hot in the garage. An hour after driving the GT and shutting the garage it's only noticeable that the garage is slightly warmer. Not scientific, but it was one of the things that was a pleasant surprise.
 
sounds like everything in the garage has been preheated :lol
 
Gulf GT said:
I was told by an anonymous team member today that they had a few problems with the vents being warped on stock cars, but it wasn't a common problem. So, not just a particular exhaust manufacturer problem. Although, designs that put the pipes near the vents and clamshell obviously have more of a potential for a problem. I once asked a team member about a year ago why they didn’t run the exhaust up higher in the engine bay so you could see it (I always loved that look of the exhaust coming over that back of the motor on the first prototype). He said that having the pipes closer to the clamshell and other components in the engine bay was part of the decision to go underneath.

For me, FRPP full header exhaust jet hot coated from the headers to the edge of the tips. When I had my Ferrari Challenge Stradale or my Lamborghini Diablo 6.0 and parked them in the garage after a drive and shut the garage door, then came back an hour later it was unbearably hot in the garage. An hour after driving the GT and shutting the garage it's only noticeable that the garage is slightly warmer. Not scientific, but it was one of the things that was a pleasant surprise.
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Interesting comments about heating up the garage. When my wife and I bring our cars in together during the heat of summer into the garage the entire space heats up. A contributing heat source is that I have a wine room and the cooling system discharges into the garage. We crack the overhead doors an inch or two to let the hot air out. The Mrs and I drive everyday Volvo's.
 
"He also did a cool air mod by blocking the engine bay air inlets and removing inner clamshell baffles. 100% cool air intake. Installed "

What is the story on having the screen there, was there an air flow issue of some kind the air box or MAF did not like?

Are the balles behind the screen or in the air box?

What is the downside of blocking these?
 
cobrar1339 said:
"He also did a cool air mod by blocking the engine bay air inlets and removing inner clamshell baffles. 100% cool air intake. Installed "

What is the story on having the screen there, was there an air flow issue of some kind the air box or MAF did not like?

Are the balles behind the screen or in the air box?

What is the downside of blocking these?
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I would have to believe that the Ford engineers did this for a good reason. Might it be that at high speed (don't know how high) that the air flow is more than enough for the engine and the excess flow is used to cool the engine compartment? I am sure at low speed from a stop to ??? that the engine will suck some hot air along with the colder outside air. There are tradeoffs in any design.
 
I would be very careful about changing the shape of any surface. In discussing a taller rear spoiler with Kip he frankly stated it would change the balance of the car at high speed. Contact Kip before chopping into a surface.
 
I would guess that a taller rear spoiler would increase the rear downforce and drag on the car. Given the front downforce would be the same I would expect a change towards more understeer at high speeds. Not the best for handling but safer for most drivers than high speed oversteer. Now change the front splitter to a larger one without adding more downforce to the rear and you will have a high speed handling monster! Don't do it.

Thoses at the rally would have noticed that Stillen's car had mods on the front splitter, rear spoiler, rear tunnel and flaps above the radiator exits. I presume that all of these changes are balanced to increase downforce and handling on Stillen's race car. Do only part of the changes and all bets are off.
 
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