I'm thinking of doing this as well as I get mine fitted. I'd guess that it reduces the sound level in the cabin as well, with all the nice noise going where it should....straight out the back.I wrapped my Accufab Pipes, makes a huge difference. I'll try to take some pictures.
A friend has had a Borla with a pulley, tune and no cats drives VERY hard and his are OK (6000mi.). Go figure:confused!
Richardhead - ceramic coatings do reduce temps. Even more if you the interior of the pipes are coated rather than just the outside.
Some very interesting observations. I believe that the primary factory at play here is the physical location of the exhaust and tube bends (heat concentration points) of the Accufab. I believe that this is much more a factor than the pulley/tune. Unless you are driving aggressively, the car will operate at 14.7:1 a/f ratio - regardless of tune or OEM set-up. The Heffner (like most tunes) will run leaner and higher HP in open-loop (aggresive driving) mode but will quickly settle down to closed-loop 14.7:1 as soon as you are "off of it". Your around town, stop and go city driving will closed loop and 14.7:1 (unchanged from OEM set-up). I guess what I'm saying is that the Heffner tune/pulley will in fact produce higher temps and more HP but this is typically and higher road speeds with more airflow in and around the exhaust. I think that your highest under hood air temps occur in "normal" driving - especially in stop & go with high ambient temperatures. As such, you pulley/tune are not in play - but the physical properties of your exhaust is still a contributing factor.
I'm no expert but perhaps metal (aluminum, stainless, etc) isn't the solution. Metal obviously has different thermal characteristics than plastic and if a metal vent really heats up it might not warp but it might get hot enough to damage the surrounding paint. I would think another composite product would be the answer but I can't say for certain. Thoughts?
At the rally Steve Stillen mentioned that his GT race car at one time had problems at very low speed whereby the engine would stall when being moved around the lot - something to do with cross wind / air pressure change. It was determined that his very early car didn't come with baffles from Ford but definetly needed them."He also did a cool air mod by blocking the engine bay air inlets and removing inner clamshell baffles. 100% cool air intake. Installed "
What is the story on having the screen there, was there an air flow issue of some kind the air box or MAF did not like?
Are the balles behind the screen or in the air box?
What is the downside of blocking these?
I was thinking as more of an air flow restriction rather than added heat. Since there are the two side vents and you somewhat close up one with the cooler, I was just wondering.I have the Ford Racing Parts transaxle cooler and have not noticed any additional heat. I'm not sure the radiator runs that hot does it?
Wondered the same. I had mine off soon after I purchased it to do some cleaning (18 months ago), and naturally tightened them when I put them back on. When I took the vents off the other day I was surprised how loose the nuts were. Do they loosen and then warp? Maybe they need to be snug so that the entire vent is secure against the clamshell. Don't know, but we do seem to have a warp / no warp variability going, so we need to look for inconsistencies between the two gtroups.I think that there is a possibility that the manner in which they were secured could be playing a roll. Meaning; are the nuts too tight on some or worst the insertion holes not placed in such a way that a modicum of expansion and contraction can take place as they heat and cool as such the part simply becomes stressed while heated and then bows/warps as the byproduct of the installation having less to do with the physical characteristics of the vents.
I can share that all of my vent nuts were only finger snug and a few were actually loose and I have no warped vents.