Whipple Install Help Needed

[w. mitty]

Just replaced the belt on my Whipple, and at the same time sent it back to Whipple for a color change (I wanted black). Whipple supplies an extra pulley to provide tension, but the belt feels pretty darn tight with the stock tensioner doing its job. The extra pulley is also a pain in the keester to put on because of the cramped distance between it and the firewall. Is the extra pulley necessary?

I would ask Whipple, but its the weekend and I've only got tomorrow to finish getting ready for the Rally!:biggrin

 

[Fubar]

I would say leave it off but if it's pretty tight turn the motor on and see if it squeals like a pig under a fence.

 

[BlackICE]

I made a tool to adjust the Whipple's wrap adjustment pulley. I cutoff the end of a 3/8" hex key and drilled a hole through a 1/4" x 3/4" bar stock and welded it in place. Added a bend to clear the firewall. The welds look ulgy, but the tool works great.

If your belt doesn't make any noises with it off you should be ok without it.

 

[Shadowman]

Just replaced the belt on my Whipple, and at the same time sent it back to Whipple for a color change (I wanted black). Whipple supplies an extra pulley to provide tension, but the belt feels pretty darn tight with the stock tensioner doing its job. The extra pulley is also a pain in the keester to put on because of the cramped distance between it and the firewall. Is the extra pulley necessary?

I would ask Whipple, but its the weekend and I've only got tomorrow to finish getting ready for the Rally!:biggrin

I have operated several with 19PSI or less pulley without the snout idler and have had no issues; the only time that an issue was seen was during a dyno pull and there was faint belt slip evidenced by fluctuating boost nearing 6500 RPM.

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[w. mitty]

Thanks guys, your prompt responses may actually allow me to sleep tonight!

The Forum once again proves its worth

 

[nota4re]

If you were to get in contact with Whipple, I'm pretty sure that they would not only tell you that they would like the idler pulley in place but that they would also recommend that it is as tight as possible against the back side of the belt - simultaneously improving both tension and belt wrap (contact patch) on the snout pulley. It is not uncommon for Whipple belts to develop a chirping sound and some owners found that backing off the tensioner pulley a wee bit would eliminate the chirp. However, as much as it seemed like a good cure, Whipple advised not to "back off" on the tensioner. Despite Whipple's recommendation, we have subsequently lessened the tension on that idler pulley as no other cure for the chirp-prone cars became available. OK, all that said. I would highly recommend that the idler pulley be installed and positioned in its intended place - albeit don't put it as tight as humanly possible. As for a tool for the hex bolt to tighten, you can simply get a L-shaped hex key (Home Depot, Sears, etc.) and cut-off the short end even shorter. (You'll need a cut-off wheel to chop this end off.) You can then insert the tool into the hex and use it to snug the tensioner bolt. For final tightening, leave your hex key in place and simply use a deep-well socket and extension over the longer end of the hex and perform your final torque.

 

[MAD IN NC]

...... It is not uncommon for Whipple belts to develop a chirping sound and some owners found that backing off the tensioner pulley a wee bit would eliminate the chirp. However, as much as it seemed like a good cure, Whipple advised not to "back off" on the tensioner. Despite Whipple's recommendation, we have subsequently lessened the tension on that idler pulley as no other cure for the chirp-prone cars became available. OK, all that said. I would highly recommend that the idler pulley be installed and positioned in its intended place - albeit don't put it as tight as humanly possible. As for a tool for the hex bolt to tighten, you can simply get a L-shaped hex key (Home Depot, Sears, etc.) and cut-off the short end even shorter. (You'll need a cut-off wheel to chop this end off.) You can then insert the tool into the hex and use it to snug the tensioner bolt. For final tightening, leave your hex key in place and simply use a deep-well socket and extension over the longer end of the hex and perform your final torque.

I had the chirping issue and conversations with fubar had me back off the amount of "tension" where it chirps only on start up and when cold... As Kendall stated - just get a 3/8" L hex allen and use a cut off shortening the depth to get enough clearance and be careful as the glass will be less than 3/8' away from the end of the allen.......

 

[nota4re]

I'm gonna throw my cut-off allen wrench into the small tool bag I'm bringing in case you would like to use it.

 

[BelgianGT]

I also had the chirping noise. At first only when cold and after a while it was constant. A really enoying noise just behind the ear. Like with all issues I asked shadowman and he told me to release some tension from the belt till I can easily turn the pulley tensioner wheel smoothly by hand. After that bearly 5 min job the problem was solved.

 

[w. mitty]

I'm gonna throw my cut-off allen wrench into the small tool bag I'm bringing in case you would like to use it.

Very kind of you! I will look forward to the help if I don't get to it before Wed. See you soon.

 

[eg1985]

First off, the sliding idler should be as close to the S/C pulley as you can get it by hand with the factory tensioner released. As stated above, it is there to increase contact area (belt wrap) and prevent slippage. We have also fashioned a great tool to get to the idler bolt using a long 3/8 allen wrench that has been cut on the bolt end and has a strategically placed bend for window clearance; McMaster-Carr sells them cheap cheap. As for the "chirping", we have found a solution to that issue and have fixed quite a few cars and have had a 100% success rate. You can PM or email me if you need more assistance.

 

[Shadowman]

First off, the sliding idler should be as close to the S/C pulley as you can get it by hand with the factory tensioner released. As stated above, it is there to increase contact area (belt wrap) and prevent slippage. We have also fashioned a great tool to get to the idler bolt using a long 3/8 allen wrench that has been cut on the bolt end and has a strategically placed bend for window clearance; McMaster-Carr sells them cheap cheap. As for the "chirping", we have found a solution to that issue and have fixed quite a few cars and have had a 100% success rate. You can PM or email me if you need more assistance.

Thank you for your comments Evan

Takes care

Shadowman