what place can I get the Padgid Yellow pads for the GT.Stock rotors should be OK, but Girodiscs are an better solution. I only did the fronts. Ohlins are a great upgrade (we have one of the 1st sets). I used 3-4 sets of stock rotors, I swapped them not liking the spider cracks around the holes. Girodiscs are only slotted, not drilled. Scott can help you with these, when you are buying the Ohlins.
Brake fluid is a MUST. Did I mention the importance of brake fluid? I used Castrol SRF, there are others that are less $ that will work (we use a Motul in our race cars)
Pads, I tried several, Padgid yellows were the only ones that were really suitable. These are also "streetable" (with a little squeak). Stock calipers. I am quite sure these will be just fine for you (other can attest, I have taken our GT to 9 10th's on track)
Cooling, I took the "is what it is" attitude. There were days that it was fine, others, it would heat up quickly. Do remember, 2 things will happen, 1st the red light will come on the temp gauge when you get ~240, then after that it will go into "limp" mode. The car will protect it self. I also found short shifting and moderate throttle down the straights helped (I like corners over straights). 6 10ths for a lap, also will bring things down to go at it again.
Seriously consider Hoosier R7's. Bridgestones are a good street tire. Hoosier is a good track tire.
I wrapped the whole car. But if you have not, you can consider the "blue tape" approach (looks terrible), or Xpel Trackwrap.
If you dont have harnesses to use a Hans, consider the Simpson hybrid, its a 3 point approved head restraint system.
Dont forget to "shake" the car down, and check the torque the axle and lug nuts.
Enjoy, the car is a lot of fun on the track.
I see the water wetter says the things you mention like pump protection and seals.ALWAYS run the recommended antifreeze in a street car! The antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors and lubricates the water pump. Straight water will increase corrosion in the cooling system and your water pump won’t last as long. Both of those can get expen$ive.
Now, if it’s only a track car and you drain the water, etc. then do what you want.
Pull the splitter and have a peak. Major obstacles in the way of ducting and no real exit if you unblock the inlets. Might be easier to put a NACA duct and ducting on the splitter to feed the brakes.
Trans cooler for sure! TRY and touch the trans after typical street driving.
Heat shield for starter wiring
Remove radiator screen if yours has it
Take the license plate off
It's just below the door and straight line from the belly pans. There is a structural bar that goes all the way across and is where the belly pan screws mount. It lifts both front and rear. Makes it really easy to get jack stands under it on the yellow supports.
My circle isn't in the right place but found the location you mention, and yes thats a way better spot then the factory specified spots for ease of use.It's just below the door and straight line from the belly pans. There is a structural bar that goes all the way across and is where the belly pan screws mount. It lifts both front and rear. Makes it really easy to get jack stands under it on the yellow supports.