Possible gauge protection solution


Jay,

I would like one as well, please.

PM'ed you with my contact info.

Best, Bret.
 
Jay,
I'm new here but I would like one as well, also I would like a set of your SS polished coil cover bolts.
please send me info to make payment.
thanks Pat
 
Still In,

Thank you
 
I would like one as well.
 
If there are any left out of your initial 50 unit run I would like one too. Will mail check today
 
Jay thanks much for doing what ford should have done count me in on group buy ,just replaced fuel temp & boost gauges. Bill 05 red 4 option purchased new mods whipple Jon Lund tune & hoosiers still love this car
 
I finally got around to installing this protective device today. Unfortunatly I discovered a flaw in the design.

I can say that most of you that have installed this have accomplished nothing other than a look pretty or feel good.

The '7mm fastener' marked A in the instruction sheet is threaded into the plastic fuse block housing. It is NOT properly grounded and is used as a fastener for the mac amp. If it provides any connection to ground, it is through the black painted plate and through the body of the mac amp.

In Jay's photos, he has other circuits grounded here as well and one of them may be providing the ground for the circuit, or maybe not.

Anyway, for most of us, if this circuit is going to do anything, a good ground connection near by is going to need to be found and the device modified to connect to it. There are none within reach of the current wire length. If I get the time to tear into it again and do some digging, perhaps I can post back the required changes. Or perhaps Jay has some ideas.

I do not mean to steal thunder, just hope to get this positive idea to provide the protection as it was designed.
 
jcthorne said:
I finally got around to installing this protective device today. Unfortunatly I discovered a flaw in the design.

I can say that most of you that have installed this have accomplished nothing other than a look pretty or feel good.

The '7mm fastener' marked A in the instruction sheet is threaded into the plastic fuse block housing. It is NOT properly grounded and is used as a fastener for the mac amp. If it provides any connection to ground, it is through the black painted plate and through the body of the mac amp.

In Jay's photos, he has other circuits grounded here as well and one of them may be providing the ground for the circuit, or maybe not.

Anyway, for most of us, if this circuit is going to do anything, a good ground connection near by is going to need to be found and the device modified to connect to it. There are none within reach of the current wire length. If I get the time to tear into it again and do some digging, perhaps I can post back the required changes. Or perhaps Jay has some ideas.

I do not mean to steal thunder, just hope to get this positive idea to provide the protection as it was designed.
Click to expand...

Thanks JC. I was just about to head into the garage to install this. Will await an update on this.
 
JC: You're indicating a flaw in the design because of the no "good ground" point available to connect the other end of the cable (non fuse side) ?
 
Yes, the specific connection pointed out in the instructions is not a viable grounding point, nor is there one within reach of the device as built. Will need to dig in, find an appropriate ground and extend the device, soldering on a new ring terminal then try again to install. Not THAT big of problem other than all the folks that installed it according to the instructions accomplished nothing.
 
Is it possible to add a ground wire from a "good" ground point to the 7mm fastener point? If so, seems simple enough.
 
very nice thank you
 
Yes, or just run the connection wire to a proper ground point instead. I just have not had the time to figure out the easiest way yet.
 
Thanks, I guess we all assumed there was sheet metal beneath the plastic. I'll get on my knees tomorrow and look for a nearby ground to complete the circuit.
 
Anyone have an update for the grounding issue?
 
The other day when I scanned the area, I was thinking that one of the silver torx bolts under the 'fuel reset' emblem - on the left- would work. But I misplaced my
digital testing meter, so I can't test it tonight. I will check it out tomorrow, unless someone comes up with another idea.
 
The McIntosh power supply casing is grounded - so you could use the phillips screw at the bottom. All the other Torx bolts in the footwell area are grounded. The only thing not grounded was the original screw that was used and the large hexhead bolt below it. If you use the screw at the bottom of the casing on the McIntosh, be sure to use a washer that bites into the casing - because the screw itself is not grounded. The silver Torx bolts that attach the console are farther away - but they would be my choice.
 
HPGT said:
The McIntosh power supply casing is grounded - so you could use the phillips screw at the bottom. All the other Torx bolts in the footwell area are grounded. The only thing not grounded was the original screw that was used and the large hexhead bolt below it. If you use the screw at the bottom of the casing on the McIntosh, be sure to use a washer that bites into the casing - because the screw itself is not grounded. The silver Torx bolts that attach the console are farther away - but they would be my choice.
Click to expand...

Thanks Hugh. I haven't taken a look behind the junction box cover, so I don't know exactly where these torx bolts are located. Are they still within reach of the original gauge protector?
 
I should have been more specific - There are 2 black Torx bolts on the right of the footwell - that hold the piece of sheet metal that secures the metal base cover to the fuse panel area. They are kind of tucked out of the way on the right side. There are 2 pairs of silver Torx bolts that secure the console cover to the tunnel - these are not behind the fuse panel cover - but up high - and visable on the left side. You would probably want to use the last bolt nearest to your feet - to have the shortest run. I think they are T-27 Torx - around a 10 inch run either way
 
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A picture would be appreciated ! (A picture is worth a thousand,... well you know the rest) :lol :lol :lol- surprised our e-Guru Jay did not chime in yet ?
 
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