Manually activating fuel pumps


Is it easy to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail?

Also - where are the fuel pump drive controls located?

Finally - would hooking up the fuel tapper to the line removed from the fuel rail work?



We have fabricated a special fuel line tool for the fuel lines on the cars. Off the shelf tools will work but you have to wrestle with them a little. This is the same tool that many of you have seen us use for the fuel filter.



The FPDM's are circled in the pic below.



Quickest pic I could find and no the car does not have to come that far apart. The only part of a finished car that has to come apart is the front splash shield (inner fender). We usually just take the rearward portion loose to gain access.


I doubt it as it would have to pull fuel through the electric pumps.
 
Seems easiest way is have your tuner write a fuel pump program. Torrie did, l works, great.
 
Seems easiest way is have your tuner write a fuel pump program. Torrie did, l works, great.

Sounds Great -
Using an SCT tuner ?
 
Yes
 
If you don't mind resetting the P1000 smog test code, Torrie's way sounds the best and easiest to do. If you want to maintain your smog check status then pull the fender liner and jumper then FPDMs.

I'm guessing most people that want to drain the tank aren't too concerned about smog tests. :lol
 
If you don't mind resetting the P1000 smog test code, Torrie's way sounds the best and easiest to do. If you want to maintain your smog check status then pull the fender liner and jumper then FPDMs.

I'm guessing most people that want to drain the tank aren't too concerned about smog tests. :lol

I was going to mention this: Loading a new tune will clear all of the system readiness indicators (throwing P1000). If your state uses the OBDII emissions check, you will have to execute the full drive cycle to clear all of the system readiness indicators before your next emissions test. You're right about not worrying about it much, unless it happens to come due right after taking the car out of cold storage.
 
What is the full drive cycle? I've had a p1000 for a long time
 
What is the full drive cycle? I've had a p1000 for a long time

So as to not hijack this topic, first suggest you use the search function for "drive cycle". I'll point you to this topic has quite a bit of the information:

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php/31371-Cali-smog-and-current-smog-atation-software

In particular about getting an OBDII (I use a bluetooth one and an app on my phone) to find out which of the "system not ready" checks you have.

The drive sequence and some of the same info is in this topic:

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php/31603-Smog-drive-cycle

in particular the link in #2.

Not noted elsewhere is the fact that some of these steps have to be done with one ignition cycle but I don't remember which. And in the parts where it says "starting from a stop drive to x speed, slow down to a stop, lather rinse repeat 3(or whatever) times" do it precisely as it says.
 
I just want to get some old gas out of one of my GT's.......
 
I just want to get some old gas out of one of my GT's.......

Oh that. I'd do like I do with the snowblower. Drive it until it is suckling the bottom of the rank then run it in the garage until it stops (with all the doors open of course or outside and push it in)
 
Oh that. I'd do like I do with the snowblower. Drive it until it is suckling the bottom of the rank then run it in the garage until it stops (with all the doors open of course or outside and push it in)

That procedure is very hard on electric fuel pumps, and will shorten their life significantly!!
 
So, running the pump only to drain the tank, as others have suggested, and leaving a bit on the bottom, would be ok and would not significantly damage the fuel pump?
 
So, running the pump only to drain the tank, as others have suggested, and leaving a bit on the bottom, would be ok and would not significantly damage the fuel pump?

I've always been told that running the pump under no load (dry) hurts the life of the pump as there is no lubricating fluid in it. Running it to just drain but not under no load would likely be fine.
 
It not just the lubrication, the fuel acts as liquid coolant, without which the pump would overheat. I wouldn't advise running the pumps dry for more than a few seconds.