shelbyelite
PERMANENTLY BANNED
- May 10, 2007
- 1
Fubar's GT Build
- Thread starter Fubar
- Start date
We might be in tuning phase by late January. Maybe.
You got skillz. How can you tell that is a Scuderia from the intake vent (not mine, btw).
shelbyelite
PERMANENTLY BANNED
- May 10, 2007
- 1
As a quick side note:
If you guys didn't know, Fischer Motorsprts is the shop/guy that is doing the Motec and tune on my GT (and most of the fabrication). His projects are always 1st class. One of his projects is this Mustang GT500. It was a big hit at the Texas mile and drew tremendous crowds at PMI this year. He just finished this promotional video.
It's worth your time.
If you guys didn't know, Fischer Motorsprts is the shop/guy that is doing the Motec and tune on my GT (and most of the fabrication). His projects are always 1st class. One of his projects is this Mustang GT500. It was a big hit at the Texas mile and drew tremendous crowds at PMI this year. He just finished this promotional video.
It's worth your time.
I just got the first group of dash examples from my CF guy. The face of the CF is really nice, very glossy. They were created as requested with no holes cut for gauges (I know a few guys were looking for MoTeC Dash options and now you can cut for any size speedo you want.
I attached a few pictures for those that expressed interest. The cast did not come out with etching, indicating where the old gauges were so I just added a stencil. I will go back and use a drawing compass to find the proper center for cutting the holes. I can do that for anyone who wants one of these but I will not make the MoTeC cut as it's location would be a personal preference issue. Also, the warning and odometer cuts were just a tad short, I can adjust them on my cutting table but I hate to mess with it as I don't think it will be noticeable.
I attached a few pictures for those that expressed interest. The cast did not come out with etching, indicating where the old gauges were so I just added a stencil. I will go back and use a drawing compass to find the proper center for cutting the holes. I can do that for anyone who wants one of these but I will not make the MoTeC cut as it's location would be a personal preference issue. Also, the warning and odometer cuts were just a tad short, I can adjust them on my cutting table but I hate to mess with it as I don't think it will be noticeable.
Attachments
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mardyn
GT Owner
MoTeC Magic
Spectator
Hi Guys,
This was asked on another thread...
http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?23987-End-of-ethanol/page4
... I thought it more appropriate to be answered here since this is similar to what is going to happen Mark's GT.
Yes... gasoline, ethanol, or methanol.
My preference is to do a "dry" shot, where the nitrous fuel is added through the main fuel injectors... controlled by a MoTeC ecu. There are some significant advances in nitrous technology lately. To run nitrous the most efficiently when looking to make big power... you need to be able to modulate the amount of nitrous going into the motor. Most people and or teams running big nitrous applications will run either multiple stages of nitrous where you have several different solenoids and you simply turn one on or off depending on how much power you want. This produces a square wave step in power... not ideal unless introduced on a gear change. Others that don't use staged nitrous will pulse the solenoid more or less to control the power level... this is less than ideal because the nitrous is pulsing and it isn't sequential with the cylinders like your fuel injectors are, so you can see how the delivery of nitrous would be inconsistent from cylinder to cylinder.
The new way is with variable orifice valves. We control how far open the nitrous valve is at any given time. This allows us to deliver smooth, non pulsed, nitrous at infinite power levels. On a big nitrous application we can go from 0-500hp or anywhere in-between at any time. We can do 0-300 too.
On a dual power adder application where we have turbo nitrous or blower nitrous here's how I would do this:
(This requires an aftermarket controller, preferably a MoTeC with gear detection... this is how I would set up a TT application... SC will be slightly different,)
A properly controlled system will allow the driver to WOT from a stand still through the entire pull regardless of gear.
Launch control setup allows WOT and clutch dump from standstill. Computer controls allowed wheel spin so that the car accelerates consistently. Once the car leaves or is already rolling, race grade traction control is the safety net if the car should try to spin the tires in any gear at WOT.
1st gear... nitrous will activate at WOT if the clutch is not engaged... boost control valve open for lower boost level... nitrous will come in full 100-150hp shot depending on traction but will ramp out as boost ramps in. At peak boost in 1st, nitrous will turn off... driver is WOT all of 1st gear.
2nd gear... after the gear change, nitrous will reactivate 200-300hp and will again ramp out as boost increases... nitrous will turn off at peak boost... boost control valve open slightly... WOT, TC saftey net
3rd gear... after the gear change, nitrous will reactivate 300hp and will again ramp out as boost increases, it may not ramp out entirely depending on power level desired... boost control most likely closed... WOT, TC safety net
4th gear... after the gear change, nitrous will reactivate 300hp and will again ramp out as boost increases, it may not ramp out entirely depending on power level desired... boost control valve is most likely closed at this point... WOT, TC safety net
5th gear... after the gear change, nitrous will reactivate 300hp and will again ramp out as boost increases, it may not ramp out entirely depending on power level desired... boost control valve is most likely closed at this point... WOT, TC safety net
6th gear... after the gear change, nitrous will reactivate 200hp and will again ramp out as boost increases, it may not ramp out entirely depending on power level desired, however the car has run hard for quite a while at this point, reducing the heat by reducing or turning off nitrous in high gear is advised... boost control valve is most likely closed at this point... WOT, TC safety net
The fact is that the large majority of GT owners won't be in 6th gear... at least with stock gearing. A few will and the option to run however much nitrous is needed is obviously available. Hope this paints a clear picture as to what is possible. Other strategies are possible this is just my preferred approach.
The biggest benefit here is for eliminating boost lag by using a fairly good sized shot of nitrous but having the ability to back it out in the lower gears so that there aren't traction issues.
Cheers
This was asked on another thread...
http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?23987-End-of-ethanol/page4
... I thought it more appropriate to be answered here since this is similar to what is going to happen Mark's GT.
Yes... gasoline, ethanol, or methanol.
My preference is to do a "dry" shot, where the nitrous fuel is added through the main fuel injectors... controlled by a MoTeC ecu. There are some significant advances in nitrous technology lately. To run nitrous the most efficiently when looking to make big power... you need to be able to modulate the amount of nitrous going into the motor. Most people and or teams running big nitrous applications will run either multiple stages of nitrous where you have several different solenoids and you simply turn one on or off depending on how much power you want. This produces a square wave step in power... not ideal unless introduced on a gear change. Others that don't use staged nitrous will pulse the solenoid more or less to control the power level... this is less than ideal because the nitrous is pulsing and it isn't sequential with the cylinders like your fuel injectors are, so you can see how the delivery of nitrous would be inconsistent from cylinder to cylinder.
The new way is with variable orifice valves. We control how far open the nitrous valve is at any given time. This allows us to deliver smooth, non pulsed, nitrous at infinite power levels. On a big nitrous application we can go from 0-500hp or anywhere in-between at any time. We can do 0-300 too.
On a dual power adder application where we have turbo nitrous or blower nitrous here's how I would do this:
(This requires an aftermarket controller, preferably a MoTeC with gear detection... this is how I would set up a TT application... SC will be slightly different,)
A properly controlled system will allow the driver to WOT from a stand still through the entire pull regardless of gear.
Launch control setup allows WOT and clutch dump from standstill. Computer controls allowed wheel spin so that the car accelerates consistently. Once the car leaves or is already rolling, race grade traction control is the safety net if the car should try to spin the tires in any gear at WOT.
1st gear... nitrous will activate at WOT if the clutch is not engaged... boost control valve open for lower boost level... nitrous will come in full 100-150hp shot depending on traction but will ramp out as boost ramps in. At peak boost in 1st, nitrous will turn off... driver is WOT all of 1st gear.
2nd gear... after the gear change, nitrous will reactivate 200-300hp and will again ramp out as boost increases... nitrous will turn off at peak boost... boost control valve open slightly... WOT, TC saftey net
3rd gear... after the gear change, nitrous will reactivate 300hp and will again ramp out as boost increases, it may not ramp out entirely depending on power level desired... boost control most likely closed... WOT, TC safety net
4th gear... after the gear change, nitrous will reactivate 300hp and will again ramp out as boost increases, it may not ramp out entirely depending on power level desired... boost control valve is most likely closed at this point... WOT, TC safety net
5th gear... after the gear change, nitrous will reactivate 300hp and will again ramp out as boost increases, it may not ramp out entirely depending on power level desired... boost control valve is most likely closed at this point... WOT, TC safety net
6th gear... after the gear change, nitrous will reactivate 200hp and will again ramp out as boost increases, it may not ramp out entirely depending on power level desired, however the car has run hard for quite a while at this point, reducing the heat by reducing or turning off nitrous in high gear is advised... boost control valve is most likely closed at this point... WOT, TC safety net
The fact is that the large majority of GT owners won't be in 6th gear... at least with stock gearing. A few will and the option to run however much nitrous is needed is obviously available. Hope this paints a clear picture as to what is possible. Other strategies are possible this is just my preferred approach.
The biggest benefit here is for eliminating boost lag by using a fairly good sized shot of nitrous but having the ability to back it out in the lower gears so that there aren't traction issues.
Cheers
MoTeC Magic
Spectator
Yes... it is a variable orifice... meaning we can control how far open or closed it is. This varies the amount of nitrous being induced. The solenoid also has a "feedback" channel to the computer so that we know where the solenoid valve is.
Cheers
soroush
Ford Gt Owner
- Aug 8, 2007
- 5,256
MoTeC Magic
Spectator
Yes... I normally do this on my MoTeC nitrous applications.
We use a high quality pressure transducer to adjust the nitrous fuel comp as bottle pressure either rises (requiring more fuel to prevent a lean condition) or falls (requiring less fuel to prevent a rich condition).
Cheers
Brilliant! Hard to use any other computer after you've grown aquatinted with the subtle finesse that MoTeC offers.
First, I want to bring part of the discussion about my motor in to this thread, as it really belonged here to begin with. The motor builder, John Mihovetz, suggested that I 'balance the cams.' I asked around, on a few different forums, about this process and got one of two replies: either "balance what?" or "that sounds like some snakeoil to me." The responses on this board were, as always, more helpful than most. I am reposting a few of those replies here for future reference:
http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?24033-Balanced-Camshaft&p=297531
In my conversation with John today, I asked him about the effect drilling on the cam might have, as strength is concerned. His reply was minimal, if any and the net reduction in stress seemed to outweigh my inherent instinct to question this logic. Everything I have read suggests that this process is more beneficial on motors that spin past 10k rpm. However most of those articles focused on valve control and the bounce or hop effect of the valve, the consequent compression loss due to an unsealed combustion camber. i.e.: power power power. Now, I assure you I would like to see power from every dime I spend but lately it seems like I am spending just as much (if not more) to tame that power into a more usable form. In short, I gave the go ahead on this procedure so it's done. I will be very interested in to power band produced by this motor and will try to post a dyno chart of before and after without smoothing. The car made very noticeable oscillations at the high end of the band. Fish and I initially suspected this was due to spark failure, then we found reason to suspect fuel delivery issues but now John says that this procedure will play a huge role in the operation of the motor at higher rpm. That power cruve will be my measuring stick for success on the 'balanced cam' project.
I assume you guys know that John is well aware of this thread and has every desire to see this motor preform well. As is the case with most builders/tuners he isn't necessarily excited about sharing his secrets... but I don't think I've let all of the cats out of the bag.
He sent me two pictures today, always good to see something happening, especially when it involves a billet crank:
The keyway on my original crank was mildly worn. I expected much worse given the way I had gone about getting power from this motor and the number of miles I put on it. The actual pulley on the end of the crank was completely stuck and took more than a little elbow grease to break free.
It's only money:bored
http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?24033-Balanced-Camshaft&p=297531
In my conversation with John today, I asked him about the effect drilling on the cam might have, as strength is concerned. His reply was minimal, if any and the net reduction in stress seemed to outweigh my inherent instinct to question this logic. Everything I have read suggests that this process is more beneficial on motors that spin past 10k rpm. However most of those articles focused on valve control and the bounce or hop effect of the valve, the consequent compression loss due to an unsealed combustion camber. i.e.: power power power. Now, I assure you I would like to see power from every dime I spend but lately it seems like I am spending just as much (if not more) to tame that power into a more usable form. In short, I gave the go ahead on this procedure so it's done. I will be very interested in to power band produced by this motor and will try to post a dyno chart of before and after without smoothing. The car made very noticeable oscillations at the high end of the band. Fish and I initially suspected this was due to spark failure, then we found reason to suspect fuel delivery issues but now John says that this procedure will play a huge role in the operation of the motor at higher rpm. That power cruve will be my measuring stick for success on the 'balanced cam' project.
I assume you guys know that John is well aware of this thread and has every desire to see this motor preform well. As is the case with most builders/tuners he isn't necessarily excited about sharing his secrets... but I don't think I've let all of the cats out of the bag.
He sent me two pictures today, always good to see something happening, especially when it involves a billet crank:
The keyway on my original crank was mildly worn. I expected much worse given the way I had gone about getting power from this motor and the number of miles I put on it. The actual pulley on the end of the crank was completely stuck and took more than a little elbow grease to break free.
JohnM said:
It's only money:bored
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Waldo
GT Owner
BlackICE
GT Owner
Mark what are you going with for the ignition system?
Motec has a CDI box, or you can run an inductive system.
Motec has a CDI box, or you can run an inductive system.
BlackICE
GT Owner
If have read good things about that box as the one to go to where others keep failing.
MoTeC Magic
Spectator
Best ignitions we've run... Run them on all of our street and race vehicles. MoTeC CDI comes in a close second. Nothing else we've tested, in our very high cylinder pressure methanol turbo engines, has even been in the same hemisphere.
Plus the owner of M&W is the sharpest ignition expert I have ever worked with. Nice to work with and be supported by someone that knows what they are doing.
Cheers
Plus the owner of M&W is the sharpest ignition expert I have ever worked with. Nice to work with and be supported by someone that knows what they are doing.
Cheers