Engine Temp


Will the engine electronically shut down if engine temp becomes dangerously high?

It goes into limp mode with reduced power.
 
surfing the torque curve

Ralphie talked about his experience above 242 F. a few pages back in this string.

What actually happens – The ECU starts pulling back spark timing.
And adding fuel pulse length (injector timing) (The extra fuel keeps thing cool).

This happens so aggressively there in no drought what is happening.
The power falls flat. And will continue to slowly retard timing to the point you are a moving road block. Just back off the loud pedal - up shift.
Roll around off the race line trying to keep up your air speed (to cool the monster) and as soon as the system falls below the 240 point everything will return to normal.
(This only happens on tracks that have an average speed/mile below 75 MPH)
After you get the hang of surfing the torque curve, this becomes less of an issue.

Really this system works. One of my lesser assignments was to confirm this over temp control was robust. My instruction was to set up a short auto cross. That maximized first gear @ the rev-limiter. And run out 6 tanks of fuel on the limiter.

This car and its systems are TOUGH- I was getting paid to kill a car.
This kind of assignment would turn your stomach.
But in the end you have a new respect for modern electronics.
There was no damage. The post leak down was the same as before the test.
We ran all the cars on a chassis dyno almost monthly- no issue.

Try that with your F-car!!
 
Ralphie talked about his experience above 242 F. a few pages back in this string.

What actually happens – The ECU starts pulling back spark timing.
And adding fuel pulse length (injector timing) (The extra fuel keeps thing cool).

This happens so aggressively there in no drought what is happening.
The power falls flat. And will continue to slowly retard timing to the point you are a moving road block. Just back off the loud pedal - up shift.
Roll around off the race line trying to keep up your air speed (to cool the monster) and as soon as the system falls below the 240 point everything will return to normal.
(This only happens on tracks that have an average speed/mile below 75 MPH)
After you get the hang of surfing the torque curve, this becomes less of an issue.

Really this system works. One of my lesser assignments was to confirm this over temp control was robust. My instruction was to set up a short auto cross. That maximized first gear @ the rev-limiter. And run out 6 tanks of fuel on the limiter.

This car and its systems are TOUGH- I was getting paid to kill a car.
This kind of assignment would turn your stomach.
But in the end you have a new respect for modern electronics.
There was no damage. The post leak down was the same as before the test.
We ran all the cars on a chassis dyno almost monthly- no issue.

Try that with your F-car!!
The effort to develop this car and the people like you who actually got it done in such a competent and quality manner never ceases to amaze me.
Thank you very much!
:cheers:cheers
 
Gee whiz, DBTGT, does your trailer queen overheat? Maybe now that you have a second car you actually drive one!
 
Gee whiz, DBTGT, does your trailer queen overheat? Maybe now that you have a second car you actually drive one!

:tongue:tongue:tongue
 
Temp

Ralphie talked about his experience above 242 F. a few pages back in this string.

What actually happens – The ECU starts pulling back spark timing.
And adding fuel pulse length (injector timing) (The extra fuel keeps thing cool).

This happens so aggressively there in no drought what is happening.
The power falls flat. And will continue to slowly retard timing to the point you are a moving road block. Just back off the loud pedal - up shift.
Roll around off the race line trying to keep up your air speed (to cool the monster) and as soon as the system falls below the 240 point everything will return to normal.
(This only happens on tracks that have an average speed/mile below 75 MPH)
After you get the hang of surfing the torque curve, this becomes less of an issue.

Really this system works. One of my lesser assignments was to confirm this over temp control was robust. My instruction was to set up a short auto cross. That maximized first gear @ the rev-limiter. And run out 6 tanks of fuel on the limiter.

This car and its systems are TOUGH- I was getting paid to kill a car.
This kind of assignment would turn your stomach.
But in the end you have a new respect for modern electronics.
There was no damage. The post leak down was the same as before the test.
We ran all the cars on a chassis dyno almost monthly- no issue.

Try that with your F-car!!

That is fantastic information. Very much appreciate your input, you should be proud to had been part of test team.
 
Feel comfortable asking me any questions

Takes care

Shadowman

Hey Shadow, sorry to nag you on this issue but me and parts guy were a bit confused on what parts to order to replace the '05 grill. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Hey Shadow, sorry to nag you on this issue but me and parts guy were a bit confused on what parts to order to replace the '05 grill. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

No worries

The part number for the late style grill replacement insert is #6G7Z-17-B-968-AA

This along with the 3 white plastic press in retainers that hold the front cover in place along the bonnet edge; I think these ar ethe HC-1 FYI these are small retainers and then you need new retainers for the inner fender liners; 2 styles, * of the screw in style and 20 of the typical black press in style.

You do not need any of the items as highlighted

These items and a few hours and you and your gal will be golden

Chats soon

Shadowman
 
Guys, my car is running about 220 normal street driving today.
Ambient temp is 80 or so.

Seems a little high to me and I never hear my cooling fans turn on.
( are they hard to hear? )

Anyhow, I'm going to turn on the ac and let it idle and watch if the fans are working.
 
is there anyone who is making a racing rad to help keep it cool on the track?:thumbsup
 
Walk Away - No.
 
After attending VIR, for 3 days, with 3 GT's I have some reporting to do.

Pete S, Mike L. , and Dave Z, (thungsten.red.and black GT) were running 25 minute stint's.

Pete's red car, and Mike L.'s thungsten were running at 240dg, by the end of the stint.......no modifications made to either car (i believe) while Dave Z was running 205 dg, and believe me, he was running it hard. The temperature was about 95 dg's (for all 3 days)........In fact, I did notice both the red car, and thungsten came in earlier than the stint, while dave's black car kept on running (hard).

There were some modifications done to the front of Dave;s car, which Bob Ida fabricated. I believe those modifications made all the difference of almost 40 degrees.

Although removing the grilles will help the air flow, that is just one small item of the complete package.

I will be testing my car , which was the one that had the radiator fins closed back in 2005, in the next few weeks at a local track (monticello), and I'll report back to let you guys know if those mods work. I believe if they work on my car, they will work on anyone's car, since I have lived for 2 years with the computer shut down on a hot day, in traffic.



Just my 2 C's.


Gino
 
A fix is in the future.
The question is how many people would be interested.
Feel free to say if you would be interested
So Alex and I can pass the interest level on to the Gt god!
 
I'm interested :banana
 
After attending VIR, for 3 days, with 3 GT's I have some reporting to do.

Pete S, Mike L. , and Dave Z, (thungsten.red.and black GT) were running 25 minute stint's.

Pete's red car, and Mike L.'s thungsten were running at 240dg, by the end of the stint.......no modifications made to either car (i believe) while Dave Z was running 205 dg, and believe me, he was running it hard. The temperature was about 95 dg's (for all 3 days)........In fact, I did notice both the red car, and thungsten came in earlier than the stint, while dave's black car kept on running (hard).

There were some modifications done to the front of Dave;s car, which Bob Ida fabricated. I believe those modifications made all the difference of almost 40 degrees.

Although removing the grilles will help the air flow, that is just one small item of the complete package.

I will be testing my car , which was the one that had the radiator fins closed back in 2005, in the next few weeks at a local track (monticello), and I'll report back to let you guys know if those mods work. I believe if they work on my car, they will work on anyone's car, since I have lived for 2 years with the computer shut down on a hot day, in traffic.



Just my 2 C's.


Gino

I agree, Dave's modifications worked very well. And I admit to ending my final session a few laps early; as it was out there in 3 consecutive sessions; twice by me and the middle by an instructor in the Blue group. So sure, the temp approached limp mode, and I would back it down for a lap or 2, then hammer it again trying to catch that stunning FR 500 S. Also, the fuel gauge was getting low. 2 half hour sessions use up close to a tank. Plenty of pump gas at the track, I only use 93, but they have 2 higher grades I believe.

Pete S.
 
<--- Interested
 
Engine Temp Fix

Interested!!!:thumbsup
 
There were some modifications done to the front of Dave's car, which Bob Ida fabricated. I believe those modifications made all the difference of almost 40 degrees.

So, what were the mods?
 
I think one of the mods was some kind of a "lip" just before the hood openings for the radiator. But there might be more, but I did see this "lip" on Dave's car at LimeRock.

John
 
Yep, I discussed make a front wicker with my local fabricator but Rocketman suggested the project may be R&D and ready for us shortly. I'm hoping for good news.