CEL p0102


bonehead

bonehead

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Aug 18, 2012
2,831
Houston, TX
Finally got to take the car out today with some friends (one with a F430 and another with a 360 Challenge. Got some pics and hopefully a good video:)......but I digress.....

Pulling out from one of our stops and I noticed the dreaded Check Engine Light. W. T. F. ? Car is 100% mechanically bone stock. One of the 6 million reasons I DON'T want to modify the car is because of headaches like this.

When I noticed the light, the car seemed a bit sluggish. Per the dash gauge, the car would not boost over 10-11psi, vacuum 23-24 in Hg. Otherwise, car runs fine. Temps ok considering it's 100 degrees outside, oil pressure fine. I'm 60 miles from home and pussyfoot it back.

Check the codes as soon as I get home and get a p0102. MAF circuit low-input.

Did a search here and didn't come up with anything.
I would just clear it and see if it comes back, but the car doesn't seem to be running as it should.

What's my next step here?
 
Ed,

Get a MAF specific cleaner at the auto parts store and give it a good cleaning. Take out the MAF and spray it good, but don't touch the sensor with anything but the spray cleaner.

This is the cleaner I use:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-sensor-cleaner/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=36011
 
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Sinovac said:
Ed,

Get a MAF specific cleaner at the auto parts store and give it a good cleaning. Take out the MAF and spray it good, but don't touch the sensor with anything but the spray cleaner.

This is the cleaner I use:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-sensor-cleaner/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=36011
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul.
Now for the next amateur question, what's the best way to do that? Remove electrical connector then unscrew MAF housing from inlet or access it via removal of the bellows?

 
Pull the red tab up to remove the connector and remove the MAF to clean it. Be gentle when you pull it out and reinstall it to avoid touching the sensor on the mounting slot. Hold it by the black connector end and spray the sensor liberally. The MAF cleaner will evaporate immediately.
 
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Sinovac said:
Pull the red tab up to remove the connector and remove the MAF to clean it. Be gentle when you pull it out and reinstall it to avoid touching the sensor on the mounting slot. Hold it by the black connector end and spray the sensor liberally. The MAF cleaner will evaporate immediately.
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul. Will try to head to Autozone after work.
Next silly question: Should I clear the code with the reader or should it clear itself once I clean the sensor? Or does it not matter?
 
The CEL should go off after a certain number of drive cycles, assuming the condition is fixed. However, you should clear the code immediately so you can determine if a dirty MAF was your problem. If it isn't, the CEL will come back on and you can move to the next possible solution.
 
Geez, I think you need some modifications! Less problems.

Ed
 
Ed Sims said:
Geez, I think you need some modifications! Less problems.

Ed
Click to expand...

Haha. Just a reminder from my car to keep it stock. You see my luck? I can't even keep a stock car troublefree!
 
What's the verdict?
 
Sinovac said:
What's the verdict?
Click to expand...

Haven't even had a chance to pull the MAF to clean it yet. Damn job and kids! (ok, just damn job, love my kids, but they interfere with my car stuff).
 
Just read about the CRC Maf cleaner. Is this BS or what? 4 to 10 HP at the rear wheels by using this stuff? There is nothing to a maf. If the wire is clean of dirt or crud build up it should work and your computer determines the AF ratio. Maybe if you clean it twice you will get 20 more RWHP.
 
Yeah, I'm not looking to add HP by some magical spray. Just want to get rid of my CEL and hopefully fix any sluggishness/boost issues.
 
Ok, got home a little early today. Pulled the MAF, cleaned the HELL out of it, and cleared the code. Then my daughter woke up from her nap. Couldn't take it out to test. Anyone know what a driving cycle consists of and how many I would need to complete before knowing if the code will come back?
 
Ed,

Suppose I should let the experts chime in, but I believe the drive cycle just has to do with passing your next smog test. If you drive and the code doesn't come back you're good to go.
 
the Wizard said:
Ed,

Suppose I should let the experts chime in, but I believe the drive cycle just has to do with passing your next smog test. If you drive and the code doesn't come back you're good to go.
Click to expand...

Quite possible, Ross. I don't know the answer to that. But I figure if 'readiness' of the sensors for smog requires a certain number of drive cycles, then clearing a code/CEL would require the same process. I could be (and probably) am wrong about this.
 
When ever you clear a OBDII code the P1000 code is set again and if you must do a smog test the drive cycle must be completed to reset the P1000. As for the MAF you should be good to go if it doesn't light up again after going for a drive where exercise the engine throughout the normal range of airflow, idle to 6000+ rpm on the road, not in neutral.
 
What he said.
 
BlackICE said:
When ever you clear a OBDII code the P1000 code is set again and if you must do a smog test the drive cycle must be completed to reset the P1000. As for the MAF you should be good to go if it doesn't light up again after going for a drive where exercise the engine throughout the normal range of airflow, idle to 6000+ rpm on the road, not in neutral.
Click to expand...

Great info. Thanks Clinton. Working all weekend, but maybe I can find an hour or so to stretch the GT legs and see if the CEL comes back.
 
Ok, about 3 weeks later, I finally got to take the car out for a bit this evening. 1st through 5 gears, up to 6K rpms a couple of times. All seemed fine. I stopped by to fill up the tank on the way home. Pulled out of the station and the CEL popped up again:mad
Same code.

What's my next step?
 
bonehead said:
Ok, about 3 weeks later, I finally got to take the car out for a bit this evening. 1st through 5 gears, up to 6K rpms a couple of times. All seemed fine. I stopped by to fill up the tank on the way home. Pulled out of the station and the CEL popped up again:mad
Same code.

What's my next step?
Click to expand...
Sell the car to EP, the code will never appear again. Granted, the car won't be driven.........................
J/K,
 
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