Waldo
GT Owner
My gal's back in the fight...
The new tune is loaded, the new supercharger belt is tight, and the new Bridgestones are on! I'll let you know how she runs after I take her out for a shakedown drive.
Another round of "thank-yous" to DBK and Dustin for the 4.0 liters of forced induction love, Torrie for the electrons, and Shadowman and nota4re for their sage advice.
For those who are contemplating doing the installation themselves, it is not that difficult. You can do this in your garage with a proper set of hand tools and jack stands. As I expected, removing and reinstalling the belts proved to be the most challenging aspect of this project. Here are some random observations:
- The installation instructions are pretty thorough with good pictures.
- Step 43 calls for removing the factory dry-sump oil pump cover. I spent about two hours removing those (7) T-27 torx fasteners. :bored Most of my time was spent trying to remove the fasteners from underneath the vehicle. I eventually removed the firewall access panel and was able to quickly complete that task.
- Reinstalling the oil pump belt will be much easier if you remove the oil pump belt idler pulley, install the belt, and then reinstall the idler pulley (as recommended by a professional :thumbsup).
- The instructions state to use a breaker bar from the top of the vehicle to relax the tension from the supercharger and accessory belts. I found it was easier to access the tensioners from underneath the vehicle.
- You will need a 3/8" Allen wrench to tighten the idler that comes with the supercharger. You will also need to shorten that Allen wrench on both ends in order for it to fit. (I'll post a picture of my "custom" 3/8" Allen wrench shortly.)
- The black rubber around the edges of my Ford air filters was coming apart and separating from the filtering area. I installed these filters about 4,000 miles ago. (Very similar to the failure that Stormcat experienced.)
- The instructions state to remove the EGR tube from the EGR valve by loosening the nut at the EGR valve. Reinstallation of the EGR tube will be much easier if you also loosen the nut at the exhaust manifold.
If I remember anything else, I'll post it for the rest of us amateurs.
Best Regards,
Waldo
The new tune is loaded, the new supercharger belt is tight, and the new Bridgestones are on! I'll let you know how she runs after I take her out for a shakedown drive.
Another round of "thank-yous" to DBK and Dustin for the 4.0 liters of forced induction love, Torrie for the electrons, and Shadowman and nota4re for their sage advice.
For those who are contemplating doing the installation themselves, it is not that difficult. You can do this in your garage with a proper set of hand tools and jack stands. As I expected, removing and reinstalling the belts proved to be the most challenging aspect of this project. Here are some random observations:
- The installation instructions are pretty thorough with good pictures.
- Step 43 calls for removing the factory dry-sump oil pump cover. I spent about two hours removing those (7) T-27 torx fasteners. :bored Most of my time was spent trying to remove the fasteners from underneath the vehicle. I eventually removed the firewall access panel and was able to quickly complete that task.
- Reinstalling the oil pump belt will be much easier if you remove the oil pump belt idler pulley, install the belt, and then reinstall the idler pulley (as recommended by a professional :thumbsup).
- The instructions state to use a breaker bar from the top of the vehicle to relax the tension from the supercharger and accessory belts. I found it was easier to access the tensioners from underneath the vehicle.
- You will need a 3/8" Allen wrench to tighten the idler that comes with the supercharger. You will also need to shorten that Allen wrench on both ends in order for it to fit. (I'll post a picture of my "custom" 3/8" Allen wrench shortly.)
- The black rubber around the edges of my Ford air filters was coming apart and separating from the filtering area. I installed these filters about 4,000 miles ago. (Very similar to the failure that Stormcat experienced.)
- The instructions state to remove the EGR tube from the EGR valve by loosening the nut at the EGR valve. Reinstallation of the EGR tube will be much easier if you also loosen the nut at the exhaust manifold.
If I remember anything else, I'll post it for the rest of us amateurs.
Best Regards,
Waldo
