I spoke with a representative of Stabil yesterday at the Mecum auction regarding his products. I use this product in my cars other than my daily driver. This question is for the non daily driver cars. He maintained that if like most people you only drive your collector cars on a once a week basis or less that it is best to always keep the tank full even though the Stabilized gas is supposedly good for one year. I told him I thought that you should run out the old gas (not below a 1/4 tank) before refueling. He maintained that by not keeping the tank full allows air in where otherwise there would be treated gas to protect the fuel tank. What's the general consensus.
Always keep a full tank of gas or not?
- Thread starter RickH
- Start date
Xcentric
GT Owner
Fuel isn't going to "protect" the plastic fuel tank. What it does is prevent condensation from forming, especially in cold and/or humid climates. The more air in the tank, the more condensation can be a potential issue. This may be more of a theoretical problem than a real one.
Never used Stabil or any other additives though. No idea what they do.
I've seen 1st gen Mustang tanks that seemed to have rusted through the top from the inside out. Besides the smell of gas, the cars ran fine.
Never used Stabil or any other additives though. No idea what they do.
I've seen 1st gen Mustang tanks that seemed to have rusted through the top from the inside out. Besides the smell of gas, the cars ran fine.
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I follow Rick H's policy. But - I have a heated garage that's at constant temperature when it's cold (less than 60) outside, so I think that the chance of condensation is minimal. I also think it's less likely to have condensation on the surface of a plastic tank like the GT's.
BlackICE
GT Owner
Modern fuels systems are sealed to reduce pollution, free air exchange is limited, the risk of condensation is vastly reduced.
TO AWSUM
Ford GT Owner
This is what I was thinking, i.e our gas cap sealing problems and the code it throws.
:agree:
I do, also.
Oxidation of the fuel will be minimized if the surface area exposed to air is minimized. Thus, if you fill the tank completely to the point where fuel is in the fill tube, the surface area exposed is so small that only a few ounces of the total can become oxidized.
Kayvan
GT Owner
- Jul 13, 2006
- 4,782
If you collect German 60s cars (MB, Porsche, BMW) with mechanical fuel injection, you need
to used stabil
These systems have tiny little pistons with .001mm tolerances that seize when any moisture is in gas
On gullwings it's $10,000 to do
Pacific Fuel injection has waiting list and has made fortune do this since 1960s
to used stabil
These systems have tiny little pistons with .001mm tolerances that seize when any moisture is in gas
On gullwings it's $10,000 to do
Pacific Fuel injection has waiting list and has made fortune do this since 1960s
Sinovac
GT Owner
AJB
GT
I use Stabil in everything.... and FILL the tank right before storage. FordGT, Shelby, TBird , Mercedes, John Deere, Case NewHolland..
and especially the small mowers , chainsaws, tillers etc..
In reality it is very inexpensive insurance. Why not? what does our OFFICIAL FORD GT STORAGE SHEET that we got from Ford Say..??
read ..Item one... Powertrain Items = Fuel... "Fill the tank and add commercially available Fuel Stabilizer......"
Andy (ajb)
and especially the small mowers , chainsaws, tillers etc..
In reality it is very inexpensive insurance. Why not? what does our OFFICIAL FORD GT STORAGE SHEET that we got from Ford Say..??
read ..Item one... Powertrain Items = Fuel... "Fill the tank and add commercially available Fuel Stabilizer......"
Andy (ajb)
Thanks to all who have responded. Being in south Florida the cold weather is not a factor obviously and my warehouse is air conditioned in the summer at 78 degrees. Looks like keeping a full tank is the way to go. Sinovac, we also discussed the new Stabil 360 performance vs. the marine. He said that the marine is also fine for cars too and either would give very similar protection. I won't get into a detailed discussion but the rep said the new 360 performance is 1 ounce per 5 gallons vs. 1 ounce per 2 1/2 gallons of the "standard" product, but costs almost twice as much.
On old cars that do run at least once a month I only worry about this in the winter. Let's face it. Anything could happen and you might not be able to start your car for months. Particularly over the winter. Put in stabilizer and you are good for prolly a year.
During the summer and spring is a waste IMO unless you are gone for months.
BTW,....
These stabilizers do not work on race fuel so if ur going that route you need to buy a stabilized Race Fuel for winter or cyclical reasons.
VP and Sunoco sell a stabilized Race Fuel.
That's what is in my 302S right now.
During the summer and spring is a waste IMO unless you are gone for months.
BTW,....
These stabilizers do not work on race fuel so if ur going that route you need to buy a stabilized Race Fuel for winter or cyclical reasons.
VP and Sunoco sell a stabilized Race Fuel.
That's what is in my 302S right now.
And One more thing.
I put a 70 Charger away for several years and only a few gallons in the tank and NO stabilizers and what was I thinking right......
Started right up 2-3 years later with a new battery and a squirt of gas in the carby.
So,.....sometimes u get lucky.
I put a 70 Charger away for several years and only a few gallons in the tank and NO stabilizers and what was I thinking right......
Started right up 2-3 years later with a new battery and a squirt of gas in the carby.
So,.....sometimes u get lucky.
I use Sunoco 112 octane leaded race fuel at a ratio of a 5 gallon can and then top off the tank with rec fuel (90 octane no ethanol). Totally ethanol free. The 1970 Chevelle runs better, smells better and is running like a sewing machine and is very happy. Costs about $110 to fill it up when empty ($73.00 per 5 gallons for the 112) but the race fuel has great longevity. And won't need a carb rebuild at $400.00 as last time, hopefully.
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I do the same thing with a '69 Mustang "Boss 460" that I built years ago. Does wonders. What compression ratio is your Chevelle?
Dolph
Dolf, Can't remember the compression ratio as when the engine was rebuilt it was bored out to 435 ci. I'm currently out of town and have all the info at home. All matching numbers car and engine, except for the usual expendables. Still has original AC compressor, never converted.
Rick, my Boss 460 was built with "slightly" higher compression and for more show than go. I mix fuel half and half to raise the octane and it sure helps. I just wondered if you mixed your fuel for that reason or longevity of the fuel.
Dolph
Dolph
