A solution to valve cover bolt Corrosion......ARP replacements
- Thread starter 2112
- Start date
otis
GT Owner
I will P/M everyone. I should be able to get everyone's shipment out by next weekend.
Here is the info tho. If you want to Paypal me, which is great cause it prints out an accurate shipping label for me, Send $225 which covers Paypal and traceable shipping. If you are buying mulitple sets, deduct $10 for each additional set due to lesser shipping charges.
You can send a check too to save $7.50
Paypal address to send money; [email protected]
Mailing address;
Suite 304
4423 Pt. Fosdick Drive
Gig Harbor WA 98335
Thanks! :thumbsup
EDIT; Guys, if you can in the note section, give me your call name here on the forum (if is not your actual name) so I can keep track of who has been taken care of. Thanks
Here is the info tho. If you want to Paypal me, which is great cause it prints out an accurate shipping label for me, Send $225 which covers Paypal and traceable shipping. If you are buying mulitple sets, deduct $10 for each additional set due to lesser shipping charges.
You can send a check too to save $7.50
Paypal address to send money; [email protected]
Mailing address;
Suite 304
4423 Pt. Fosdick Drive
Gig Harbor WA 98335
Thanks! :thumbsup
EDIT; Guys, if you can in the note section, give me your call name here on the forum (if is not your actual name) so I can keep track of who has been taken care of. Thanks
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:lol
I am an unabashed fan of ARP. I LOVE their products and have had custom fasteners made before. But this project was different.
The combination of the large diameter head and built in flange with the very narrow bolt shaft was a problem from the get go. They need to make these from stock that is slightly bigger than the flange diameter and cut the rest in.
Then my stipulation that the tip must have the safety contours that the factory had and we had another hurdle to overcome. This was a 25% cost adder by itself. Their suggestion was to just have a basic tip and shorten the bolt. After Discussion with Bill, we felt this guiding nub not only centered the bolt before engaging the threads, it was a safety feature to prevent over tightening and damaging the cylinder head or valve covers. It had to be this way for this group.
Now If I was Summit Racing and was buying 20,000 units, they may have made this job 1 to borrow Ford's catch phrase.
3 dozen sets (or so) of 16 doesn't get ARP all hot and sweaty. They were polite and professional, but all my mails and phone calls would only do so much to keep this going. I was a bit nervous cause I had to commit to purchasing up front with a credit card # and I wasn't positive this would be a hit or not.
Seems Like I will be able to pass them all on so thanks guys. :thumbsup
BTW. Hardware store Stainless steel is Grade 5 or weaker. ARP stainless steel is equal in strength to Grade 8. This application doesn't require this strength but it is good to know none the less.
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cedarstang
GT Owner
Remember guys! If you're putting stainless steel screws into an aluminum cylinder head, make sure that you lube the threads well with anti-seize compound prior to installation. Otherwise, you may never get them out, as stainless and aluminum tend to gall.
Just a reminder! :thumbsup
PS - ARP's Assembly Lube will work great here.
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twobjshelbys
GT Owner
Guys, I can tell you from exprience of rigging 3 of my own (Ford Powered) salt water boats that though it is true that stainless on stainless will gall/seize and S.S. and aluminum will definitely exchange ions, AND the above suggestions are worth following.
But......
The quality and finish of the ARP stainless is so dang superior, right down to the thread pitch and finish of said threads, you will experience far less bad effect than with your typical, or even high end stainless hardware.
I am advocating some type of grease, wax, anti-seize or assembly lube for trouble free service. If you don't stock any, your marine supply house usually has several varieties from which to choose.
But......
The quality and finish of the ARP stainless is so dang superior, right down to the thread pitch and finish of said threads, you will experience far less bad effect than with your typical, or even high end stainless hardware.
I am advocating some type of grease, wax, anti-seize or assembly lube for trouble free service. If you don't stock any, your marine supply house usually has several varieties from which to choose.
otis
GT Owner
usmcfred
GT Owner
Torque spec?
What is the torque spec and is Neversieze or Loctite preferred? If Loctite, which one? Thanks ...
usmcfred
What is the torque spec and is Neversieze or Loctite preferred? If Loctite, which one? Thanks ...
usmcfred
dpdive
GT Owner
Paypal sent.
On the thread lubricant topic, we use type 316 or 304 SS hardware (or sometimes monel) all the time in the underwater business. When joining SS and using anti-seize, for it to be effective it must contain nickel. Loctite Nickel Anti-Seize part # 77164 should be available at your local NAPA or other auto parts store.
On the thread lubricant topic, we use type 316 or 304 SS hardware (or sometimes monel) all the time in the underwater business. When joining SS and using anti-seize, for it to be effective it must contain nickel. Loctite Nickel Anti-Seize part # 77164 should be available at your local NAPA or other auto parts store.
Magic
GT Owner
