Engine oil Leaks


standj

GT OWNER
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 23, 2007
755
Wyoming
Just changed the oil for the first time and after removing the bottom covers found oil leaks coming from the bottom of the engine. One of the leaks looks like its coming from the rear main, but the other drips I can't determine at this point. We added dye to the new oil to help at the next change. Does anyone know of any engine leak issues?
 
Just changed the oil for the first time and after removing the bottom covers found oil leaks coming from the bottom of the engine. One of the leaks looks like its coming from the rear main, but the other drips I can't determine at this point. We added dye to the new oil to help at the next change. Does anyone know of any engine leak issues?


'Rear main?
Is your's an early '05 car?
 
Make sure it is engine oil. The transaxle oil and engine oil look almost identical but the transaxle will smell kind of nasty. On most GT's that I have had the belly pans off, there is almost always some accumulation of transaxle fluid under the transaxle. This is typically from vaporized fumes venting from the breather as the transaxle fluid runs very, very hot. (Cars equipped with a transaxle cooler and/or extended breather will stop this weeping.)

If you have an early '05 car as EmptyPockets points out, you may indeed have the "known" rear main seal leak.
 
While in Indy this last weekend, I met Mike Eller, supervisor for the Ford Niche Plant that built our engines in Romeo. He said there should never be a problem with the speedy sleeve installation on the early cars. He should know, he's the one that got it going. After long talks with him, I really don't think I'd be worried about one of the early cars.
 
While in Indy this last weekend, I met Mike Eller, supervisor for the Ford Niche Plant that built our engines in Romeo. He said there should never be a problem with the speedy sleeve installation on the early cars. He should know, he's the one that got it going. After long talks with him, I really don't think I'd be worried about one of the early cars.[/QUOTE


If his car IS an early '05, Doc, it's possible it could have "slipped thru a crack" somehow and never GOT a 'sleeve in the 1st place.

Or, the darn thing could have just been installed wrong - or been a "bad" one.

Ya never know.

All this is moot if his car is a later '05 or an '06!:biggrin

What's the story, standj?
 
The car was built in 12/04 and was number 416, I assume this would be considered an early car. If this is the case what needs to be done?

John
 
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The car was built in 12/04 and was number 416, I assume this would be considered an early car. If this is the case what needs to be done?

John



Okay then. My guess is you need the "Speedy(i) Sleeve installed. As was outlined elsewhere, there was "faulty(?)" machine polishing work done on some of the early cranks which resulted in oil being able to sneek by the 'seal. The Speedy Sleeve was installed on cars with this crank to PERMANENTLY CURE the pblm.

Your car may have "escaped" the dragnet Ford had out to catch all these cranks ...OR, the 'sleeve or it's install went bogus somehow.

THE REPAIR WILL BE WARRANTY COVERED assuming your 36 months are still in effect ... and I cannot imagine they WOULDN'T be. I'd have a "GT savy" dealer check the whole thing out, John. (Once the repair is done, you should NEVER have the pblm again.)
 
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Dual oil leaks

I too have a very early car, built in November 04. I took the car in for the rear main leak. When the transaxle was removed the dealer found a second leak ultimately attributed to an internal seal within the transaxle. turns out that the fix required the transaxle to shipped back to Ricardo for repair in their temp controlled cleanroom. Took about 9 weeks, but no problem since.
 
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While in Indy this last weekend, I met Mike Eller, supervisor for the Ford Niche Plant that built our engines in Romeo. He said there should never be a problem with the speedy sleeve installation on the early cars. He should know, he's the one that got it going. After long talks with him, I really don't think I'd be worried about one of the early cars.

I would have to agree. I have used the speedy sleeve on equipment in my fleet without further problems.
 
Guys, thanks for all your comments. Sounds like there were cars that got thru without the speedy sleeve. Does the engine have to be removed to have the sleeve installed??? and has anyone else had the transaxle leak?

Thanks
John
 
Guys, thanks for all your comments. Sounds like there were cars that got thru without the speedy sleeve. Does the engine have to be removed to have the sleeve installed??? and has anyone else had the transaxle leak?

Thanks
John


In his post above, glord says he has. You might PM him for info on that. My suspicion is the engine will stay where it is for the 'sleeve work ... though, of coarse, the transaxle will have to be removed.
 
I might add one other possibility for you. I had to have the seal replaced on the driver's side half axle. This leak has been with the car since new, not major, but there. Anyway, when the technician examined the leaky seal, he said there was no spring on the inside of it. I am not a tech, just repeating what was told to me today. I wonder if others might not have the same issue. No leaks at all since the repair last week. Could this be your issue? Are you 100 percent sure you can trace the oil to the rear main on your engine?
 
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transaxel seal leak

the transaxel does not have to be removed to remove and install new seal.. seal costs $44.oo

basic procedures to remove and install seal

1. loosen rear lug nuts
2. raise car
3. remove real tire
4. remove air filter compartment ( to create working space)
5. disconect battery
6. remove aluminum cover under transaxel arm ( to create working space)
7. remove 6 bolts on arm ( attached to tansaxel)
8. remove axel bolts and washer
9. remove trans axel seal......


i have done this repair my self and i have the maintenace instructions
 
the transaxel does not have to be removed to remove and install new seal.. seal costs $44.oo

basic procedures to remove and install seal

1. loosen rear lug nuts
2. raise car
3. remove real tire
4. remove air filter compartment ( to create working space)
5. disconect battery
6. remove aluminum cover under transaxel arm ( to create working space)
7. remove 6 bolts on arm ( attached to tansaxel)
8. remove axel bolts and washer
9. remove trans axel seal......


i have done this repair my self and i have the maintenace instructions


Yep, that's the one.
 
First of all I enjoy the fact that this Forum brings a wonderful mix of questions, comments, shared experiences, etc. however I do have a single pet peeve

When a person takes the time to open a thread requesting specific information particularly if it is an issue that could be construed as a service or build concern it would be “VERY” nice if the initiator of the thread would ultimately share what if any results were experienced otherwise the thread becomes interesting at best.

The Ying and Yang so to speak or as I say “the good, the bad, and the ugly” I like to begin reading a story knowing that at some point I will experience the end.

So; was the oil leak isolated and corrected?

Just my thoughts

Takes care

Shadowman
 
Make sure it is engine oil. The transaxle oil and engine oil look almost identical but the transaxle will smell kind of nasty. On most GT's that I have had the belly pans off, there is almost always some accumulation of transaxle fluid under the transaxle. This is typically from vaporized fumes venting from the breather as the transaxle fluid runs very, very hot. (Cars equipped with a transaxle cooler and/or extended breather will stop this weeping.)

If you have an early '05 car as EmptyPockets points out, you may indeed have the "known" rear main seal leak.

My oil leak ended up being trans oil blowby A longer tube was put on the vent and problem solved.
 
Thanks for all the input, I haven't brought the car back since the oil change. We did add dye to the engine oil to help find out where it is coming from. I will keep you posted.

Thanks

John
 
Thanks for all the input, I haven't brought the car back since the oil change. We did add dye to the engine oil to help find out where it is coming from. I will keep you posted.

Thanks

John


John

Thank you for staying with this thread and letting all know the final outcome

All the best

Shadowman
 
FYI- Just had the car back into the shop to check on the leak after we put in the UV dye and it looks like it was coming from the inlet tube O -ring.

John
 
Good job!! gtjoey 1314:thumbsup