Any input or suggestions are welcome on this issue. Whipple 3.4 with 3.25 Ultra Grip pulley keeps shredding the first two ribs on several belts. Gator back belt holds true after the first two ribs brake off and doesn't go down any further but can't seem to figure out why. The latest belt was installed with a little less tension but belt failed after about 20 miles on the road. Previous belt lasted over 7 months with 5k+ miles and failed in the exact same fashion. Pulley has the shim and alignment has been tested with a laser alignment tool. Considering trying a different style of belt. Again, any suggestions or experiences with similar situations would be appreciated.
Whipple car keeps shredding belts
- Thread starter Ravage
- Start date
BlackICE
GT Owner
DakotaGT
GT Owner
I had a problem with a Kenne Bell supercharger on one of my Challengers... on one of the hoses somewhere on the front of the block there was one of those newer-style hose clamps with the little metal tabs that stick out, and it was rotated in such a way that it was just close enough to catch the first couple of ribs of the serpentine belt. This happened twice, each time after I had just hammered the throttle, and things must have twisted *just* enough for the edge of the belt to catch one of those tabs. I never would have guessed it, but when I traced the entire path of that serpentine blower belt, that was the only thing I found. I rotated that clamp around to move the tabs out of the way, and haven't had a problem since. Worth checking, anway!
Thugboat
GT Owner
Are you buying the belt for the GT? They take a special belt that has the certain number of ribs just for the GT. Some have bought belts that were a rib or two to wide and had them trimmed. Stupid question, but I had to ask.
Larry
Larry
Something I will consider and look at, thanks!
I am using a 10 rib belt that's the correct length. But it's a Gator back belt. I wonder if this could make a difference...
Thugboat
GT Owner
Ravage,
I would get with Torrie and see if he can get you a belt. I have a sneaky feeling that it maybe the problem. Shouldn't hurt to try a different belt.
Larry
I would get with Torrie and see if he can get you a belt. I have a sneaky feeling that it maybe the problem. Shouldn't hurt to try a different belt.
Larry
MTV8
GT Owner
Are you using a shim with the ultra grip pulley? I believe the ultra grip is already designed to correct the alignment issue.
The vendor who sold it asked me if it was for a Ford GT. Once confirmed he said he would include the shim. My thinking is if the shim makes for excessive spacing, then the belt would start to come apart on the other side (closest to the supercharger). The belt even though missing 2 ribs remains in correct location on the pulley. Thus telling me the alignment isn't the issue.
The belt is not from Whipple but is a 10 rib belt in the correct length. Once installed everything fits snug on every pulley the way it should. Only reason I have not bought the Whipple belt is because they cost $200 vs a $50 gator belt. Until this issue gets resolved and I stop breaking belts this is the more economical way to go. I wouldn't think the belt itself would make a difference but maybe I'm wrong. Does anyone know for sure what the difference is and why the Whipple belt would be required or if it would even make a difference? Belt is a belt to me.
BlackICE
GT Owner
The last I check no one makes a 10 rib in the correct length while running a Whipple. Whipple cuts down a 12 rib belt to make a 10 rib. Are they now made them in the right sizes from the factory?
Have you verified the plane of the pulleys? And, their perpendicularity to the plane. If this is verified and true, then the belts are the problem. If not, correct the plane or perpendicularity.
Ice is right. The only reason that the belts from Whipple are expensive is because they buy a 12-rib belt and cut it down to 10 - so there is labor and a process involved. If you are buying 10-rib belts that are fitting then I am wondering if you have the routing correct (no offense, please), because it shouldn't be possible to have an off-the-shelf 10-rib belt that fits. Whipple would be the ones that would be the most pleased if this were the case because I'm sure they'd prefer to not be in the belt-cutting-down business.
Fubar
Totally ****** Up
It's been so long sense my car was in my garage, it's hard to recall how it all works but if I remember correctly... when I had a belt shredding issue, it ended up being a slight miss-alignment in the Whipple tensioner. It would push the belt ascu and tear off a rib or two. As I recall, I noticed the tensioner had an odd wear pattern from the outside to the inside (no marks or scaring). I just ordered a new tensioner, bolt and related hardware.
Here is just one example of a belt I can purchase through a common parts vendor:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...oap?ck=Search_4100896_-1_-1&keyword=4100896++
Granted it does not have Whipple's magic touch. But can someone explain why it's any different?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...oap?ck=Search_4100896_-1_-1&keyword=4100896++
Granted it does not have Whipple's magic touch. But can someone explain why it's any different?
BlackICE
GT Owner
http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/product.asp?ProdID=1224
Only that Whipple recommends a 89 or 90.5" belt and this is a 90".
Only that Whipple recommends a 89 or 90.5" belt and this is a 90".
Fast Freddy
GPS'D 225 MPH
per that link whipple recommends a 89" belt only for a 3.25" pulley. if you are not running that size belt for that size pulley then that is a problem....
Hi Ravage... I'll give you my best guess. Our GT's - like many modern cars utilizes serpentine belts and this is what is employed for the SC. Our car have a tensioning arm and the purpose of this arm is to keep a constant tension on this belt as the engine accelerates and decelerates. These tensioners have a finite range of motion as well as a midpoint. It is pretty amazing to watch a GT engine run and rev and to see just how much this tensioner arm moves around. By design, when you have an OEM SC with an OEM pulley, these tensioners are set right at their midpoint of motion. When you make what is seemingly a small change - like a smaller pulley for more boost (one of the most common GT upgrades), now the belt is fractionally to long and this tensioner in no longer at its midpoint and so the range of motion has been compromised. Many of the Pulley/Tune upgrade kits simply ignore this but the Ford Racing pulley/tune upgrade kit includes spacers for the power steering pump. By scooting the power steering pump over a smidge, they are able to compensate for the smaller pulley. Ford takes this extra step to insure the tensioner is at its midpoint. (Interestingly, some installers simply discard these spacers as it is one of the more time-consuming parts of a pulley/tune install - and presumably they know better than Ford... but that's a story for another day.)
As has been stated by myself and others, the belt length that Whipple recommends is (or maybe more accurately, historically wasn't) available in the proper length. So, Whipple was buying the proper length 12-rib belt and cutting it down to a 10-rib belt - hence the premium cost. Now, you state that you are sourcing an 10-rib belt directly. So, either 10-rib belts are now being made in the proper length or you are buying a belt that is the wrong length for your application.... which could be all or part of your problem.
As has been stated by myself and others, the belt length that Whipple recommends is (or maybe more accurately, historically wasn't) available in the proper length. So, Whipple was buying the proper length 12-rib belt and cutting it down to a 10-rib belt - hence the premium cost. Now, you state that you are sourcing an 10-rib belt directly. So, either 10-rib belts are now being made in the proper length or you are buying a belt that is the wrong length for your application.... which could be all or part of your problem.