Q: First time service ever in this GT40


D

DiegoR

Member
Mar 1, 2012
17
Hello forum members,

this is my fisrt post and I would like to get some info and help from all you if possible before I attempt to wrench this amazing car. I'm a friend of the owner of the car and this is the only GT40 2006 model year that exist in our country so no service technician that knows this car in particular available. I'm dealership for Jeep/Dodge/Chrysler so I know about this service world but this car is quite different than the regular DD's cars most use as we know.

I have searched for oil change procedures and saved the guide/step by step procedures for the engine oil change found in this forum as well for the parts. This car has 930 miles in the clock and the owner bought the car from a car collector when it had about 450 miles or so. Once imported the car it ran for a while but w/o service ever made. So I'm reading the owners manual that at least 1 year aintenance is needed and need to change certain fluids.

The fluids/parts that came to my mind are:

Qty. Description P/N

1 Oil Filter FL2024 (Owner manual state other P/N but maybe was superceded?)
12 Engine Oil Ford Motorcraft 5W-50 Full Synthetic Qt. WSS-M2C931-B
1 Ford Motorcraft Supercharger oil 4 oz. XL-4
2 Motor Craft Air filter FA-1682


Now I'm thinking to change the S/C oil and coolant as well. Not sure if venture to do the transaxle fluid? Not sure if worth the trouble for these sections for the millage it has regards the 6 years that has past?

Any input/feedback or advise is very appreciated.

Sorry for my poor english.:facepalm:

cheers,

-Diego
 
Last edited:
Hi DiegoR,

It is cool that you are looking for input. Many car dealers in the US assume that they know everything about everything.... and they get into troubles.

You said;

1 Oil Filter FL2024 (Owner manual state other P/N but maybe was superceded?)
12 Engine Oil Ford Motorcraft 5W-50 Full Synthetic Qt. WSS-M2C931-B
1 Ford Motorcraft Supercharger oil 4 oz. XL-4
2 Motor Craft Air filter FA-1682

At 900 miles, I would NOT recommend that you change air filters or supercharger oil. Simply no need. You can check the fluid level of the supercharger just to be safe.

The car will need 9.5 quarts of oil if you change the filter and the oil. There will be (3) drain plugs. Drain the oil from all of them AFTER you change the filter. Then, fill with 9.5 quarts of oil. I suggest that you find the MANN 925/4X oil filter. It is a VERY common filter in BMWs. The Ford oil filter is simply a re-packaged Mann 925/4X + more $$$.

I would recommend that you check to see if the axle bot upgrade has been done. This upgrade must be done on ALL GT's. PM me if you need some advice on how to check if this was done.
 
It a Ford GT
 
Also recommended is the transaxle oil change per the manual. Some have commented on a noticeably smoother 2nd gear shift.
 
Not sure if low mileage is due to storage, possible candidate for oil pump belt?
 
In what country are you located?
 
Thanks nota4re for the input. I'm doing a list of the items required to do the service but I'm looking to import the whole "package" of USA as I do that a lot for our MOPAR parts so I can throw any other part I need in the container. I guess the air filters is gonna be in the packgae anyways, soon rather than later it's gonna be needed since our dusty roads will take care of it :) What are the 3 drain plugs you refer? There is one in the oil tank, I guess the other is at the bottom of the dry sump pan? And the last one? If there is any internet manual guide step by step for this particular procedure that you know, let me know please, would be better, but if it doesn't exist I guess I can figured it out by taking a deep look at it.

Sorry for the bad reference, I thought it was the GT40, but obviously the new one is just the GT, my bad/mistake, feel like idiot, but hey I was excited with this car that I wrote a wrong model name for it.

I'm in Peru. This is a US specs GT. The owner was looking to get new one but time was critical since we have a rule/laq maximum of 5 years to allow import a car , used or new, after that is not possible.

Thanks all!
 
Sorry for the bad reference, I thought it was the GT40, but obviously the new one is just the GT, my bad/mistake, feel like idiot, but hey I was excited with this car that I wrote a wrong model name for it.
Click to expand...

No need to apologize. I would never have the courage to write on a board in my non-native language. I applaud that you did and everyone knew what you meant... some just want to give you some "initiation grief" to test your resolve!!

There's two plugs on the "pan" and one on the reservoir. Torque-spec on these bolts is 18 ft-lbs. (Just serviced one this weekend - reservoir plug was torqued to over 100 ft-lbs!) You can purchase the Service manual on disc from Helm. I have the printed (2006) ones for sale if you prefer that. You can go to Ebay and purchase illegal CD copies of the Service manual if you don't mind stealing.
 
Just for information, there are legitimate CD and DVD electronic service manuals for sale on ebay as well. Many long standing ebay traders with good feedback scores. Its pretty easy to tell the fakes from the OEM disks. I recommend the yellow annual dvds that do not expire. Usually can be had for under $50.
 
Last edited:
nota4re said:
Torque-spec on these bolts is 18 ft-lbs. (Just serviced one this weekend - reservoir plug was torqued to over 100 ft-lbs!)
Click to expand...

100 ft-lbs, surprised the bolt didn't break, unbelievable- I'm glad you noted the correct torque value Sir Kendall, and I'll add since he's from Peru using the SI system, 18ft-lbs= 24.4 NM :thumbsup
 
DiegoR said:
Sorry for the bad reference, I thought it was the GT40, but obviously the new one is just the GT, my bad/mistake, feel like idiot, but hey I was excited with this car that I wrote a wrong model name for it.
Click to expand...

No se siente mal. Algunos de nuestros nativos de habla inglesa están mucho peor :lol
 
Geez cut the gut some slack many people in the USA do not know what car it is until you tell them it's the new Version of the GT 40..
Welcome Diego !! This is a great place for information. some time the guys here like to joke around so do not take it personal ..
nota4re also know as Kendal has an independent shop who has worked on many GT's and is very knowledgeable. You came to a great place to find information.
Is the car in Lima ? I was in Lima in late December. I get to Lima quite frequently so maybe we can meet up some time. It would be very cool to see a GT in Peru !! I have tinkered with the GT quite a bit and maybe I can give you and or the owner a few tips. Welcome and I must say your English is much better than my Spanish !! :biggrin
 
Welcome! Post pics of you and the GT in Peru as soon as you can!
 
STORMCAT said:
Geez cut the gut some slack many people in the USA do not know what car it is until you tell them it's the new Version of the GT 40..
Welcome Diego !! This is a great place for information. some time the guys here like to joke around so do not take it personal ..
nota4re also know as Kendal has an independent shop who has worked on many GT's and is very knowledgeable. You came to a great place to find information.
Is the car in Lima ? I was in Lima in late December. I get to Lima quite frequently so maybe we can meet up some time. It would be very cool to see a GT in Peru !! I have tinkered with the GT quite a bit and maybe I can give you and or the owner a few tips. Welcome and I must say your English is much better than my Spanish !! :biggrin
Click to expand...

Thanks man! I'm taking notes of all this. I found few photos in this board where the lift arms should rest uder the GT so it was very helpful!

Yes the car is in Lima, the owner is a car nut and have quite collectable cars. I do service and repair some stuff from him, as well his Mustang "GT" Saack MKI 92, there are like 4-5 in Lima of those cars.

I will upload few photos I'm taking of the process here. I just tested the brake fluid and is OK but the clutch fluid is dark and the tester pencil of water concentration indicate red = 4% so it needs to be replaced asap. Any tip how to do this? We can suck the most liquid from the fluid container but I'm not sure if down there in the sleeve clutch system has a purge fitting? I'm worry to drain the fluid and can't bleed the system later.

Thanks for the help guys!

-Diego

PS: When you come to Lima again (if you get the chance, let me know and I will let you meet the owner and sure he can show you all the rest of cars he has)
 
Last edited:
In the other hand, we are changing the coolant. Unfortunately, we don't have the Motorcraft Gold coolant stuff arround here so I'm unsure if go with this MOPAR coolant or the MOBIL which is in a drum that doesn't require add water as well.

Suggestions between these two? Both are "pink" color.

Thanks

DSC02637.jpg


DSC02638.jpg


DSC02639.jpg


-Diego
 
Kendall
I have not had the chance to meet you but I would like to applaud you for your helpful info and class in your replies to Diego

Steve
 
DiegoR said:
Thanks man! I'm taking notes of all this. I found few photos in this board where the lift arms should rest uder the GT so it was very helpful!

Yes the car is in Lima, the owner is a car nut and have quite collectable cars. I do service and repair some stuff from him, as well his Mustang "GT" Saack MKI 92, there are like 4-5 in Lima of those cars.

I will upload few photos I'm taking of the process here. I just tested the brake fluid and is OK but the clutch fluid is dark and the tester pencil of water concentration indicate red = 4% so it needs to be replaced asap. Any tip how to do this? We can suck the most liquid from the fluid container but I'm not sure if down there in the sleeve clutch system has a purge fitting? I'm worry to drain the fluid and can't bleed the system later.

Thanks for the help guys!

-Diego

PS: When you come to Lima again (if you get the chance, let me know and I will let you meet the owner and sure he can show you all the rest of cars he has)
Click to expand...


Hello Diego,
I would change the clutch fluid for sure, It gets dirty and contaminated. Dirty and contaminated to can lead to a problem with the clutch pedal going to the floor and not returning on it's own, There is a small check valve in the system and the contaminates will keep it from working properly. I will find the link and post it here. The gentleman who wrote this was part of the Ford Team who developed the car : )
http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/s...pedal-story-Rev.3.1-“With-time-comes-clarity”

Do not vac bleed the clutch line. It has a small reservoir and it's critical to keep it full. You can only get 1 or 2 pumps at the pedal and you will need to refill. I use a constant feed bottle which helps. You do not want to get air in this line !! There is a high point vent at the fire wall but if you don't get air in the line you don't need to access it.

I really can't give you a yes or no on the Coolant swap. I would try to see what the API or ASTM spec or whatever specs they use for the Ford Fluid and see if what you have matches,, but in reality it would probably be ok. I wouldn't be concerned about the cool. I would be more concerned about the chemical contents. I will try to see what's on the Ford Jug.


If you click on my * STORMCAT " name it will give you the option to send me a direct email. Send me a email as a reminder to check on the fluid for you. When I get back to Lima I will track you down !! Larco Mar is my favorite View in Lima and I enjoy " La Rosa Nautica " You got some great food in that city !!

Ciao Amigo !
 
Last edited:
Thanks man! I already flushed the clutch fluid and bled the system. I will throw some photos of the car and process today.

I found locally the original Motorcraft Gold Coolant stuff, so it will be used all OEM, like it should be :) I'm reading the owners manual at it says, both the intercooler and radiator cooling system use the same BUT:

Engine Coolant capacity is 6.6 gallons
Intercooler capacity is 4.5 gallons

I'm guessing this is the total capacity for each system in terms of fluid, and I'm thinking it means already 50/50 mix, so let's say I would need to buy "3.3" gallons of Gold coolant for the engine coolant system and "2.25" gallons of gold coolant for the intercooler system and add the rest of water right?

Thanks for the input. I'm sending you a email!

Cheers,

-Diego
 
Last edited:
Somebody more knowledgeable than me must tell Diego about the need to vacuum fill the engine coolant.

Howard
 
DiegoR said:
Thanks man! I already flushed the clutch fluid and bled the system. I will throw some photos of the car and process today.

I found locally the original Motorcraft Gold Coolant stuff, so it will be used all OEM, like it should be :) I'm reading the owners manual at it says, both the intercooler and radiator cooling system use the same BUT:

Engine Coolant capacity is 6.6 gallons
Intercooler capacity is 4.5 gallons

I'm guessing this is the total capacity for each system in terms of fluid, and I'm thinking it means already 50/50 mix, so let's say I would need to buy "3.3" gallons of Gold coolant for the engine coolant system and "2.25" gallons of gold coolant for the intercooler system and add the rest of water right?

Thanks for the input. I'm sending you a email!

Cheers,

-Diego
Click to expand...

It's great you found the Ford Coolant. Your estimates of the 50/50 mix are correct. I made large batches of premixed solution in clean buckets so you have a consant mix to use. Use the vacuum fill method you drawn in what is need ( as mentioned below ) .
A lot of us in hot climates cut back the percentage on coolant to water. This can be help lower the temps. Knowing your climate it would not be necessary but if the owner or you are looking for some more Horse Power cutting back on the inter cooler loop will make it run cooler for sure.. I run a much lower % in the IC loop
. I live in a real hot climate.


Howard said:
Somebody more knowledgeable than me must tell Diego about the need to vacuum fill the engine coolant.

Howard
Click to expand...

As Howard noted the GT systems are long and complex. With a lot of turns many high and low points. About the only way to insure a complete air purge is with a vacuum fill. There is a special tool for this. There are some old posts on this subject. There are high vents up front on the radiators but they are a little work to get at. Again in your climate maximum cooling efficiency may not be missed.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Top Bottom