Valentine V1 Install in <10 Steps


nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,216
Hi all,

I seriously considered one of the hidden radar detector installs with, perhaps, the principle advantage being the stealth display and, secondly, active laser "jamming". However, I really didn't find a good place to locate a hidden display and I have to admit that I just really like the Valentine units - already having one in each of the other cars. Also, I believe that if I mounted the V1 near the headliner it would be really hard for anyone outside of the car to see it.

So, the decision was made for the V1. Here's a step by step if you'd like to do the same.

1. Locate and remove the metal plate at the passenger footwell that covers the factory fuse box. There are four fasteners. No tools are required. Flip the D-rings through each fastener "up" and then turn the fastener 90 deg counter-clockwise, and remove. Gently fold the plastic insulation down and steer clear of the black tacky stuff used to install it.

2. Pull the Radio fuse. Note: If you have the Mac option, the fuse is in a different location. (Let me know if you need to know which one.)

3. Carefully solder an 18-20 gauge wire to one of the legs of the fuse. You may have to file the resulting solder to make sure you retain the full length of the leg.

4. Locate the Torx screw located above the nearest copper pipe. The Torx screw is a T-25 size and is on a black metal 90 degree plate holding the copper tube as it passes through the front firewall. This will be your grounding point. You might see a few other screws but none of them provided a proper ground in my testing.

5. Attach the wires for your radio detector to this ground and "switched-hot" locations. Note: In the pictutres below I use small pigtail wires and then butt connectors to connect the V1 power-box. You can improve on my design by soldering the V1 power-wire (red) directly to the fuse and connecting the groud wire to the T-25 screw mentioned previously.

6. Mount the V1 power-box using the supplied velcro pieces. (Pic shows viable mounting location that does not interfere with metal plate.)

7. To route the wire up to the rear view mirror area, no trim pieces need to be removed. Just work slowly and carefully and you'll do just fine.

8. Using a philip screwdriver, remove the passenger's flip-down sun visor. This will give you some room to pull the headliner down ~1/4" to sneak the wire along. Do this all the way over to where you want the V1 mounted at. Pull on the A-pillar end to get the length just right.

9. Fold the plastic shield back into place and re-install the metal plate. Fasteners are inserted, turned 90 degrees and then D-rings are folded over.

10. You're done. The V1 will go on and off with the key - just like the radio.

Here's some pics:

Here's the fuse with the wire soldered on and slightly filed so it will push right back into place. Note the wire insulation is slightle deformed from the pliars. No harm.

Fuse.JPG


Here's the fuse back into place. Note the black wire trailing up by the copper pipe. This is on its way up to the T-25 Torx bolt. Also note the mounting of the V1 power box.

FuseBox.JPG


Finally, here's a couple of pics of where the V1 unit is mounted (using standard V1 suction cups).

Install2.JPG


Install1.JPG


Hope this helps somebody to save a little time.
 
Last edited:

SLF360

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Looks aesthetically massive, installed. Does anyone have tips which are the best stealth detectors/ laser jammers ? Anyone have an install experience, or can recommend a top installer/dealer in the Miami area ? Would be highly appreciated.
I think Centerpunch must know what are the best of the best. So, center, if you don't want to post, just PM me which one (or combo) I should get.

Just recently got a speeding ticket going 213 instead of 130 (Italy, hence km).. It took someone, that knew someone (that's italy :biggrin ), to make it go away... I didn't even have to pay a cent or got no point or other penalty. :thumbsup
Otherwise, I'd be just driven around by my driver for fifty days in the long one... :wink :rofl
 

MAD IN NC

Proud Owner/ BOD blah bla
Mark IV Lifetime
Feb 14, 2006
4,211
North Carolina
I to am looking at a laser shifter/ radar detector. So far I've seen a blue tooth device called Calibre from K40, looked at the Passport SRx family and now I see Nota4re stands by the Valentine....

Seeing it's now 2006 - what is the latest device that kept up with the technology transistion?
 

Townshend

GT Owner
May 22, 2006
75
Thanks for the step-by-step and pictures.

It pretty much takes any thinking out of the project which (in theory) will save me a lot of time :biggrin

Thanks again - Will hopefully be doing my own RSN.
 

Cyclenirvana

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Feb 7, 2006
596
Winston-Salem, NC
Below is an excellent website with a lot of information regarding radar detectors and jammers:
http://www.radarbusters.com/
Here is a good summary review of a comparison of many detectors:
http://www.007radardetectors.com/tests.htm
I have read many reviews, talked to many people, and have some personal experience. My take is that the best radar detectors are the following:
Escort 8500, Beltronics Pro 65RX, and Valentine 1. For the most part, it appears to be a personal preference regarding which is the best. To me, the Valentine is too bulky, but I like the fact that it shows the direction of the signal. I have the Escort 8500; my wife has the Beltronics Pro 65RX. All detect X-band (I think only New Jersey cops), K-band (local police where I live), Ka-band (NC state patrol), and laser (thank God very rare). While radar jammers are typically illegal, laser jammers are legal in most states.

Stefan, to my knowledge, the Bel Pro 65RX is the only one that detects Ku-band, which is used in some places in Europe (?Italy). For those who want to drive through Virginia (where Radar detectors are illegal) there is the Bel STi-Driver (beats the Spectre II) but it has no Ku-band.

I only recently started using a radar detector. To be honest, my typical long drive involves setting the cruise control (obviously not the GT) at about 8-9 mph>speed limit. Never get a ticket doing this. I find radar detectors most useful for alerting you when the speed limit may have changed (eg. school zone). I have only had a few tickets, but virtually all occurred in this circumstance. :thumbsup
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,216
Just as important as good detection distance is the ability to screen for false signals. I had other detectors prior to all of the V1's. Maybe in some kind of comparison test the previous detectors may have been as good or nearly as good as the V1 for range. However, the V1 does a great job of discriminating false/valids - and I'm sure part of that is that I've just become so accustomed to the V1's characteristics.

This is a good article and had me leaning for some time toward the Bel Pro Remote Plus RX75.

Another positive of the V1 is Valentine's upgrade policy. I just sent two of my older units in and Valentine will send me two of the very latest units. It's not inexpensive (depends on how old your unit is), but it's better that paying full price (V1's are only sold direct). I don't know of any other manufacturer who does this.
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,216
Maybe most, but not ALL of the time...

My units were very old and the "upgrade" was $189. A quick check of Ebay completed items shows a couple of units selling below $200 - some with newer serial numbers than mine were.
 

Ed Sims

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 7, 2006
7,858
NorCal
Valentine direct wire install in 2 minutes

I have my Valentine radar detector installed above the mirror with the suction cup mount. It is direct wired to the mirror lights with a quick connect made by a local Corvette hop up shop. It works just as well on the GT (see my thread elsewhere on the Forum with photo regarding this quick connect). It has 2 wires with hard metal probes that simply push into the Ford electric box on the mirror assembly. The other end of the connector is the end that attaches to the detector. It is $19.95. If anyone is interested I can post the phone number of the Corvette shop. They don't like Fords except for the GT!

Ed
 

fjpikul

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Jan 4, 2006
11,529
Belleville, IL
I presume the power to the unit is then controlled by the key and not "ON" all the time. Thanks for reply.
 

Ed Sims

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 7, 2006
7,858
NorCal
power not switched

Yes, on the Vettes it will be on when the ignition switch is on but on the GT you will have to turn the detector on & off at the detector as it will have power all the time. A small price to pay for a 2 minute install & less than $20.

Ed
 

RADGT

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Aug 31, 2006
858
Connecticut
Ed,

Sounds like a good idea Keep it simple. Could you post the number of the shop and the exact name of the item I should ask for?

Stu
 

FlorIdaho Chris

Yeah, I've got one.
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
There is a small metal attachment clip that you can buy at Radio Shack that slips over the fuse contact blade allowing a connection. That way you don't have to solder to the fuse and you have an easier time if you ever have to replace the fuse. I have used these clips in the past and they work great.

I am a strong believer in the capabilities of the V1 detector.
 

Big Carrot

GT Owner
May 13, 2006
209
Dallas
I've owned every radar detector under the sun, and the V1 is definitely the best. Radarbusters is full of shit. They sell all kinds of detectors, but they don't have Valentine, so naturally what they sell is going to be "better". The only way to get a V1 is by going directly to Valentine.
 

TEXAS GT

2006 Twin Turbo
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
I have 4 Valentine Ones and never leave home without one. I've never been disappointed and haven't had a ticket in 4 years. I also might add that I NEVER drive the speed limit. :biggrin
 

Roger Vincent

GT Owner
May 31, 2006
275
Bowling Green, KY
V1 is the one

Yep, my vote's for the V1 as well.
 

Townshend

GT Owner
May 22, 2006
75
Steps 7 & 8

Nota4re (or anyone that has done this)

Any more tips you can give on steps 7 & 8? I am having a pain of a time getting the cable to go up the A pillar and think I'm just going about stuff the wrong way.

Though I must say - Steps 1-6 were painless and quick, had the job done in no time - 9, 10 and 11 (celebratory beer) I think I got covered as well.

Thanks for the guide!

Erick
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,216
Erick,

Do you have some sort of improvised plastic wedge that you can use to help? I have a couple of hard white plastic interior tools that you can use to gently pry the plastic A-pillar pieces out as you push the wire in behind it. I wouldn't recommend to use a screwdriver or anything metal, but scout around for something that might help you to create a small gap to slip the wire into. I hope this helps.... you're almost there!
 

Townshend

GT Owner
May 22, 2006
75
Actually, I remember my friend has a set - I saw him use them when we did his V1. Doing mine in my F350 and Porsche was easy, fingers only. Should be a big big help.

One last question (oh, and thanks for the FAST reply) - Any tricks on getting it from the A pillar to the fuse box area?

Thanks again!
 

Ed Sims

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 7, 2006
7,858
NorCal
quick & easy

I tell you the Motor Sport Image quick connect for the V1 is the way to go. www.motorsportimage.com or 916-784-2323 Roseville, CA. In a few minutes or less you are set to go. It connects to the rear view mirror connector. I have my V1 suctioned cupped between the mirror & roof lining.

Ed
 

RADGT

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Aug 31, 2006
858
Connecticut
Please post number for the Corvette shop. Thanks.