Hi all,
I seriously considered one of the hidden radar detector installs with, perhaps, the principle advantage being the stealth display and, secondly, active laser "jamming". However, I really didn't find a good place to locate a hidden display and I have to admit that I just really like the Valentine units - already having one in each of the other cars. Also, I believe that if I mounted the V1 near the headliner it would be really hard for anyone outside of the car to see it.
So, the decision was made for the V1. Here's a step by step if you'd like to do the same.
1. Locate and remove the metal plate at the passenger footwell that covers the factory fuse box. There are four fasteners. No tools are required. Flip the D-rings through each fastener "up" and then turn the fastener 90 deg counter-clockwise, and remove. Gently fold the plastic insulation down and steer clear of the black tacky stuff used to install it.
2. Pull the Radio fuse. Note: If you have the Mac option, the fuse is in a different location. (Let me know if you need to know which one.)
3. Carefully solder an 18-20 gauge wire to one of the legs of the fuse. You may have to file the resulting solder to make sure you retain the full length of the leg.
4. Locate the Torx screw located above the nearest copper pipe. The Torx screw is a T-25 size and is on a black metal 90 degree plate holding the copper tube as it passes through the front firewall. This will be your grounding point. You might see a few other screws but none of them provided a proper ground in my testing.
5. Attach the wires for your radio detector to this ground and "switched-hot" locations. Note: In the pictutres below I use small pigtail wires and then butt connectors to connect the V1 power-box. You can improve on my design by soldering the V1 power-wire (red) directly to the fuse and connecting the groud wire to the T-25 screw mentioned previously.
6. Mount the V1 power-box using the supplied velcro pieces. (Pic shows viable mounting location that does not interfere with metal plate.)
7. To route the wire up to the rear view mirror area, no trim pieces need to be removed. Just work slowly and carefully and you'll do just fine.
8. Using a philip screwdriver, remove the passenger's flip-down sun visor. This will give you some room to pull the headliner down ~1/4" to sneak the wire along. Do this all the way over to where you want the V1 mounted at. Pull on the A-pillar end to get the length just right.
9. Fold the plastic shield back into place and re-install the metal plate. Fasteners are inserted, turned 90 degrees and then D-rings are folded over.
10. You're done. The V1 will go on and off with the key - just like the radio.
Here's some pics:
Here's the fuse with the wire soldered on and slightly filed so it will push right back into place. Note the wire insulation is slightle deformed from the pliars. No harm.
Here's the fuse back into place. Note the black wire trailing up by the copper pipe. This is on its way up to the T-25 Torx bolt. Also note the mounting of the V1 power box.
Finally, here's a couple of pics of where the V1 unit is mounted (using standard V1 suction cups).
Hope this helps somebody to save a little time.
I seriously considered one of the hidden radar detector installs with, perhaps, the principle advantage being the stealth display and, secondly, active laser "jamming". However, I really didn't find a good place to locate a hidden display and I have to admit that I just really like the Valentine units - already having one in each of the other cars. Also, I believe that if I mounted the V1 near the headliner it would be really hard for anyone outside of the car to see it.
So, the decision was made for the V1. Here's a step by step if you'd like to do the same.
1. Locate and remove the metal plate at the passenger footwell that covers the factory fuse box. There are four fasteners. No tools are required. Flip the D-rings through each fastener "up" and then turn the fastener 90 deg counter-clockwise, and remove. Gently fold the plastic insulation down and steer clear of the black tacky stuff used to install it.
2. Pull the Radio fuse. Note: If you have the Mac option, the fuse is in a different location. (Let me know if you need to know which one.)
3. Carefully solder an 18-20 gauge wire to one of the legs of the fuse. You may have to file the resulting solder to make sure you retain the full length of the leg.
4. Locate the Torx screw located above the nearest copper pipe. The Torx screw is a T-25 size and is on a black metal 90 degree plate holding the copper tube as it passes through the front firewall. This will be your grounding point. You might see a few other screws but none of them provided a proper ground in my testing.
5. Attach the wires for your radio detector to this ground and "switched-hot" locations. Note: In the pictutres below I use small pigtail wires and then butt connectors to connect the V1 power-box. You can improve on my design by soldering the V1 power-wire (red) directly to the fuse and connecting the groud wire to the T-25 screw mentioned previously.
6. Mount the V1 power-box using the supplied velcro pieces. (Pic shows viable mounting location that does not interfere with metal plate.)
7. To route the wire up to the rear view mirror area, no trim pieces need to be removed. Just work slowly and carefully and you'll do just fine.
8. Using a philip screwdriver, remove the passenger's flip-down sun visor. This will give you some room to pull the headliner down ~1/4" to sneak the wire along. Do this all the way over to where you want the V1 mounted at. Pull on the A-pillar end to get the length just right.
9. Fold the plastic shield back into place and re-install the metal plate. Fasteners are inserted, turned 90 degrees and then D-rings are folded over.
10. You're done. The V1 will go on and off with the key - just like the radio.
Here's some pics:
Here's the fuse with the wire soldered on and slightly filed so it will push right back into place. Note the wire insulation is slightle deformed from the pliars. No harm.
Here's the fuse back into place. Note the black wire trailing up by the copper pipe. This is on its way up to the T-25 Torx bolt. Also note the mounting of the V1 power box.
Finally, here's a couple of pics of where the V1 unit is mounted (using standard V1 suction cups).
Hope this helps somebody to save a little time.
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