Oil Change?

[RKGT]

My 06 GT is now 3 years old and I have less than 1000 miles on it. The oil has never been changed, is it recommended that I change the oil even with low miles on it? The ford dealer tells me the oil filter is a canister type that costs $24.91? He also tells me that the oil (Ford 5-50 synthetic) costs $9.35 a quart, and that the car takes 9.5 quarts. I'm going to check the owners manual to confirm, but was curious if this information is accurate?

Thanks,
RK

 

[Empty Pockets]

My 06 GT is now 3 years old and I have less than 1000 miles on it. The oil has never been changed, is it recommended that I change the oil even with low miles on it? The ford dealer tells me the oil filter is a canister type that costs $24.91? He also tells me that the oil (Ford 5-50 synthetic) costs $9.35 a quart, and that the car takes 9.5 quarts. I'm going to check the owners manual to confirm, but was curious if this information is accurate?

Thanks,
RK

'Sounds about right re: prices (and the oil capacity is 9.5). You can get the filters MUCHO cheaper elsewhere. They're actually Mann HU 925/4 filters in a Ford box at the dealer. The Mann filters can be had for about $7-$10 from many places. (The Ford part # is FL2024).

And actually, Ford recommends you change ALL fluids YEARLY regardless of mileage as I recall. Ditto the oil pump drive belt, I believe.

(BTW, a 36mm socket removes the oil filter.)

 

[nota4re]

Prices sound about right. Takes 9.5 qts after a change.

Ford specifies both engine oil and transaxle fluid be changed at 1 year interval... so you're over that.

Oil drive belt doesn't come into play until 30K miles... about the year 2100 at the rate you're going :biggrin

Make sure that whoever does the oil change for you knows what they are doing.... not says they know... but KNOWS. Too many stories....

 

[Shadowman]

My 06 GT is now 3 years old and I have less than 1000 miles on it. The oil has never been changed, is it recommended that I change the oil even with low miles on it? The ford dealer tells me the oil filter is a canister type that costs $24.91? He also tells me that the oil (Ford 5-50 synthetic) costs $9.35 a quart, and that the car takes 9.5 quarts. I'm going to check the owners manual to confirm, but was curious if this information is accurate?

Thanks,
RK

The questions as presented were answered however with regards to the oil change, the time, and the miles.

IMO the oil and filter needs to be replaced at least annually regardless of the miles "unless" you service her and then immediately tuck her away and "never" start her however if you do then at that point the clock starts ticking.

Furthermore I have found that all of the gals respond well to not only the engine oil and filter service but IMO as important is the first transaxle service; I share with everyone that this needs to be done at no more than 1000 miles as the debris/gunk found within them is huge after which normal recommended service on the transaxle IMO is fine.

Now here is the biggie; it is recomended that the oil pump drive belt be replaced every 3 years if she is not driven; I dare say that your gal comes dangerously close to falling within this recomendation. While doing an oil service on the gal the process to replace it is easy as I would consider it at the same time. The oil pump drive belt will likely last 30K miles if driven regularly however when they sit they die and to loose an oil pump drive belt would be at the very least awkward however I suspect in most case very expensive too because by the time one recognized that the belt was gone the internal damage would be extreme.

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[Team Jeff]

I was told never to let engine oil sit for over a year regardless of hours or miles.... unless it 0.

Something about corrosion, I don't recall the substances at work off the top of my head.

 

[Team Jeff]

Shadowman, Thank you for bringing up the importance of the drive belt change, that is something I had forgotten about. Now that its at the front of my mind.... do you happen to have a P/N handy? Maybe a link to a site I can use to order it? :thumbsup

 

[Empty Pockets]

I was told never to let engine oil sit for over a year regardless of hours or miles.... unless it 0.

Something about corrosion, I don't recall the substances at work off the top of my head.

Doesn't that refer to conventional oil, 'Jeff? ('breakdown of the various additives, etc.?) (the corrosion, I mean) I don't really recall...

 

[Shadowman]

I was told never to let engine oil sit for over a year regardless of hours or miles.... unless it 0.

Something about corrosion, I don't recall the substances at work off the top of my head.

You are all too correct this is why I said once the gal is fired the clock begins and once a year is the schedule...... 5 minutes of running (the worst for them) or 5K miles it is time for a fresh load and a new filter.

If we are going to store a gal we drain the oil when she is at full operating tempertaure and also replace the oil filter and then we load her with fresh oil and prime the system without firing her and then tuck her away with the battery removed until it is time to bring her out to play again.

Shadowman

 

[Team Jeff]

EP, my understanding is that it applies to all oil that is subjected to combustion. I'll do a search on it.

 

[Shadowman]

Doesn't that refer to conventional oil, 'Jeff? ('breakdown of the various additives, etc.?) (the corrosion, I mean) I don't really recall...

Sadly it has nothing to do with the oil or whether it breaks down but rather the combustion chamber debris that is introduced to it and the distillation process that occurs; it is akin to acid.

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[Team Jeff]

Ostwald ripening

Read the preview here,

http://www.springerlink.com/content/t3v2583642415p31/fulltext.pdf?page=1

 

[Shadowman]

Shadowman, Thank you for bringing up the importance of the drive belt change, that is something I had forgotten about. Now that its at the front of my mind.... do you happen to have a P/N handy? Maybe a link to a site I can use to order it? :thumbsup

Here you go and yes this needs to be something that folks think about; it is truly VERY easy to replace it when doing an oil service

Part number #4G7Z 6B651 AA with a retail price of a bit under $160.00

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[Empty Pockets]

Sadly it has nothing to do with the oil or whether it breaks down but rather the combustion chamber debris that is introduced to it and the distillation process that occurs; it is akin to acid.

Takes care

Shadowman

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

 

[Kingman]

I can't believe it. Isn't anybody going to ask about the elephant in the room??? :eek

OK, I will.

Mr. Pockets....is RKGT your brother? ....or alter go? :willy

 

[Indy GT]

And RKGT....
Be sure to use the recommended MOTORCRAFT fluids in your GT.

Going to your local big box store to get "other" synthetic fluids is not prudent nor recommended for our GT application.

 

[GT38]

And RKGT....
Be sure to use the recommended MOTORCRAFT fluids in your GT.

Going to your local big box store to get "other" synthetic fluids is not prudent nor recommended for our GT application.

Indy is dead on (as ar all the other posts) and you have to be careful even at the dealer - the old confusion between the GT and the Mustang GT reared it's head as I recall the first time we did ours. They recommended a different weight oil, and "proved" it to me in their computers, but a check of the owner's manual showed them to be wrong. Bottom line, make absolutely sure you have the correct oil, and that means verify what you've got. Does anyone have the Ford P/N handy for the engine oil, just for the record on this thread?

Yes, the oil is expensive, but it's peanuts compared to the problems you'll create with the wrong oil.

 

[Empty Pockets]

I can't believe it. Isn't anybody going to ask about the elephant in the room??? :eek

OK, I will.

Mr. Pockets....is RKGT your brother? ....or alter go? :willy

I would think the answer should be obvious: NO. He has faaaaaaaar too many miles on his GT. :willy

 

[jaxgt]

If you are having a Ford Tech do the change, do make sure he has done it before or is VERY meticulous. It is NOT like changing the oil on other cars.

I, sadly, have seen a GT where the inexperienced tech lifted it in the wrong spot and dented the belly pan, then used an air ratchet to tighten the oil drain plug and stripped it. Also, might want to put a set of magnetic drain plugs in at that time for the oil and transaxle fluids.

 

[RALPHIE]

Ford SAE 5W-50 Full Synthetic Motor Oil (& Transaxle Lubricant)

...Does anyone have the Ford P/N handy for the engine oil, just for the record on this thread?...

The Ford Part Number is XO-5W50-QGT.
The Ford Specification is WSS-M2C931-B
The MSDS/FIR Number is 178040

Features:
• Motorcraft® SAE 5W-50 Full Synthetic Motor Oil is designed, engineered and recommended by Ford Motor Company for use in the Ford GT and Shelby GT500. It meets API Service Category SM
• It is manufactured with high viscosity index, premium-quality synthetic base oils and performance additives to provide wear and oxidation protection under severe operating conditions. It is resistant to deposit formation, including supercharged and turbocharged applications. It provides quick fl ow to engine parts during start-up and lubricates effectively over a wide temperature range
• This oil is compatible with other synthetic and petroleum based formulations

*********************************************************
As long as we're here:

Ford SAE 75W-90 Premium Synthetic Transaxle Lubricant

The Ford Part Number XT-75W90-QGT
The Ford Specification is GL-5
The MSDS/FIR Number is 171872

Features:
• Motorcraft® SAE 75W-90 Premium Synthetic Transaxle Lubricant is a premium-quality lubricant designed, engineered and recommended by Ford Motor Company for use in the Ford GT transaxle
• It provides excellent gear change and synchromesh performance even at low temperatures
• It provides complete lubrications for reduced wear
• This fluid is compatible with other synthetic and conventional mineral oil axle lubes

 

[Triheart7]

On the subject of lubrication, I have not seen on the Forum if using ZMax was a good or Bad for the Ford GT.