non random stalling


Sounds like a problem with the MAF to me. Did you block off the air damn screens? It could the result of low RPM cross wind (that results when you turn the car) that sometimes affected the MAF unit and would cause the motor to stall.

Just a thougt.
 
Fubar said:
Sounds like a problem with the MAF to me. Did you block off the air damn screens? It could the result of low RPM cross wind (that results when you turn the car) that sometimes affected the MAF unit and would cause the motor to stall.

Just a thougt.
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Dunno, just seemed like an interesting observation considering the past thread. So long as it restarts, I'm cool with it. If not, then hopefully I'm near a fun bar.
 
Ok, I may end up sounding like an idiot by putting my two cents worth in on this thread but if it can happen to me it can happen to anyone and often the most parsimoneous explaination is the right one.

I had a stalling event several times while in slow traffic waiting at an intersection. I had the car in neutral at Idle with my foot on the clutch and it would just die. Always started up right away afterward but this probably happened five or six times before I figured out what it was. Turns out that at Idle, if the clutch is even the slightest bit not all the way down there is enough drag to stall the car. The problem was that I was allowing my foot to come up just a tiny fraction of measure and I was the problem with the car, not the car itself. So...when I read this thread, my first question is while in neutral coast did you or did you not have your foot on the clutch and have it FULLY depressed. Hell, I've driven lots of cars with a stick and never had this problem before but the GT is so sensitive to this that it happened. Just asking the question. Not intending to insult anyone...
 
If that is the case, can your clutch be adjusted to change that?
 
2112 said:
If that is the case, can your clutch be adjusted to change that?
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I would bleed the clutch. After that, if holding the clutch all the way down it engages after some time passes then the master and or slave cylnders are leaking. If no fluid loss then it is the master.
 
gtinmyblood said:
Ok, I may end up sounding like an idiot by putting my two cents worth in on this thread but if it can happen to me it can happen to anyone and often the most parsimoneous explaination is the right one.

I had a stalling event several times while in slow traffic waiting at an intersection. I had the car in neutral at Idle with my foot on the clutch and it would just die. Always started up right away afterward but this probably happened five or six times before I figured out what it was. Turns out that at Idle, if the clutch is even the slightest bit not all the way down there is enough drag to stall the car. The problem was that I was allowing my foot to come up just a tiny fraction of measure and I was the problem with the car, not the car itself. So...when I read this thread, my first question is while in neutral coast did you or did you not have your foot on the clutch and have it FULLY depressed. Hell, I've driven lots of cars with a stick and never had this problem before but the GT is so sensitive to this that it happened. Just asking the question. Not intending to insult anyone...
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Excellent observation. Will experiment with that. Each time it has happened to me, it was in the last few feet of coming to a stop in traffic. I likely had the clutch in. So... we'll see. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
was the issue with the poor seal on the gas filler neck considered?
 
I had my GT stall at idle twice (restarted from a roll, no issues) and the check engine light is off...will it still log a code? 45,000 mile, Torrie Tune...suggestions?
 
It may or may not have a code. The stall may not have triggered a code oof something wasn’t out of specification. MAF may need a shot of cleaner.
 
PeteK said:
It may or may not have a code. The stall may not have triggered a code oof something wasn’t out of specification. MAF may need a shot of cleaner.
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No codes...I may try MAF cleaner. Can I just spray the right stuff while MAF still installed/hooked up?
 
Yes, however it’s easier to remove the MAF. It sits in the top of the air intake pipe. IIRC, it’s held in with one screw.
 
PeteK said:
Yes, however it’s easier to remove the MAF. It sits in the top of the air intake pipe. IIRC, it’s held in with one screw.
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Roger! Thanks!
 
Let’s confine the replies to this thread.
After you clean the MAF, go drive it hard through multiple start/stop cycles. Then report back on results.
 
PeteK said:
Let’s confine the replies to this thread.
After you clean the MAF, go drive it hard through multiple start/stop cycles. Then report back on results.
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Wilco...1649467054396.png
 
CRC. That’s what I use.
 
I know crosswinds can cause stalling due to changes in airflow across the intakes. My ‘05 will occasionally stumble on a windy day.
 
ByeEnzo said:
I know crosswinds can cause stalling due to changes in airflow across the intakes. My ‘05 will occasionally stumble on a windy day.
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Holy crap! I was thinking about cross-winds (as it was a really windy day yesterday and just look up laminar air flow vs TF-30 turbofan jet engine)...BUT I assumed I was nuts! I distinctly remember all is well sitting at a stoplight (rock solid idle rpms) and a gust of wind (almost exactly 90 degrees off heading) and the engine died...
 
Take your compressed air nozzle and blow air in the vicinity of the clamshell air intakes, aka: like you are blowing dust off the clamshell. You will clearly see how gusts of air will affect the engine idle.
 
PeteK said:
Yes, however it’s easier to remove the MAF. It sits in the top of the air intake pipe. IIRC, it’s held in with one screw.
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Mine is held by two screws and when I pulled it up about an inch...it gets "stuck", kinda like I need to release some pin/lock. I don't want to break/damage it?
"...remove the MAF. It sits in the top of the air intake pipe. IIRC, it’s held in with one screw."
 
667C0FB6-39AB-4691-9920-4C673F7386B4.jpeg9CBAF5C0-C574-4CC7-8EB8-2BAE14DB4688.jpegF1FD4B1E-D3A9-4EAF-81CA-032786E60099.jpegHere are the appropriate pages from the shop manual. Just those two screws. IIRC(!), I had to wiggle mine a bit to get it out.
 
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