Need Quick Reply Please


Aug 25, 2006
4,436
Huuum.... I never have looked at the owner's manual for the torque specifications but rather the Ford Service manual.

When I am tending to another’s gal I remain diligent in this area so as to minimize risk. Now if there is a difference between the two documents I would still follow the Ford Service manual procedures because they generally are updated over time whereas an owner’s manual general simply remains over time.

Now IMO would 100 versus 111 cause an issue; likely not however if I deviated from this number then why not another and then in the end the entire process becomes subjective.

Takes care

Shadowman
 
H

HHGT

Guest
Read This Now!!!!

Well, thanks to all that replied. Went to Costco and they decided not to touch it the last minute - liability BS. Ended up at America's Tire and when they took off the wheels, they realized they were out of the glue on weights. I now have an appointment somewhere else on Monday with a GSP9700 balancing machine.

HERE"S WHERE IT GETS INTERESTING.

Last September I had all the wheels checked for Torque and they were fine @ 100. Since then, I had the Whipple put on. When Americas Tires took the wheels off this morning, 2 lugs on the Real Left wheel came off with his fingers and 1 lug on the Rear Right did the same. After a momentary panic moment, I had him check the torque on the rest of them and the highest registered 70 and the least registered 52:ack:ack:ack The front swere at 110

Question, does the extra HP put on by the whipple (Or TT) loosen up the lugs?

AND

For crying out loud, go check your lugs.
 

Howard

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 26, 2007
1,137
Florida/North Jersey
Thanks. I'm checking first thing tomorrow!

Howard
 
Aug 25, 2006
4,436
Well, thanks to all that replied. Went to Costco and they decided not to touch it the last minute - liability BS. Ended up at America's Tire and when they took off the wheels, they realized they were out of the glue on weights. I now have an appointment somewhere else on Monday with a GSP9700 balancing machine.

HERE"S WHERE IT GETS INTERESTING.

Last September I had all the wheels checked for Torque and they were fine @ 100. Since then, I had the Whipple put on. When Americas Tires took the wheels off this morning, 2 lugs on the Real Left wheel came off with his fingers and 1 lug on the Rear Right did the same. After a momentary panic moment, I had him check the torque on the rest of them and the highest registered 70 and the least registered 52:ack:ack:ack The front swere at 110

Question, does the extra HP put on by the whipple (Or TT) loosen up the lugs?

AND

For crying out loud, go check your lugs.


Now this is interesting

If you are certain that you set them all at 100 and then they were NEVER touched and now you have loose nuts then I would say that the initial set aka torque was not adequate.

If for example you had set the torque at 40 this would have been woefully low and would have certainly come loose over time and now having shared this 100 maybe too low too which is why the Ford service manual states 111?

As stated earlier; you will never receive an updated owner’s manual; even reprints carry the original data however on line service data is typically updated and when new information is received and real time experiences are reviewed.

I will continue to use 111 as my torque value.

Takes care

Shadowman
 
Last edited:
H

HHGT

Guest
BTW, and for whatever its worth, Both Costco and Americas Tire's system specified 100. Neither would allow anything else for liability purposes. As soon as I get her home its going to 111 and CHECKED MONTHLY - IF NOT MORE.
 

Indy GT

Yea, I got one...too
Mark IV Lifetime
Jan 14, 2006
2,526
Greenwood, IN
This is an interesting development. I agree with Bill, if the nuts were originally torqued to 100 ftlbs and not touched until you loosened them at the tire store, it would "appear" the initial torque (100) was inadequate.

Maybe the 111 value I quoted from the service manual should be used in lieu of the 100 value. I cannot see how the increased horsepower available via a Wippled engine could be the difference. Both the stock OEM engine and upgraded engine can both easlily load the drive train to a level exceeding both the static and rolling friction values of the tires on the road (mu x normal force exerted by each wheel to the pavement surface). Straight line acceleration does little (IMO) to promote lug nut loosening. Side to side loading as you aggressively drive the car through a road course with left/right turns would (again IMO) be more of a loosening culprit. In fact while tracking my car, the sanctioning body recommended highly to all drivers that they check their lug nut torques before each time on the track for just that reason.

I will say however, that in frequent checking of the residual torque value on my car's wheel lug nuts, I have never experienced one even remotely loosened.
 

t32b

Verde
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 21, 2007
432
Bay Area, CA
Apologies in advance if I'm taking this thread just a bit off course, but I am confused by the comments re 'checking' the torque setting of the lug bolts.
I was under the impression that, to properly set the torque setting of fitting, you have to back off/de-torque the part, and then re-torque the fitting.
Thus you can't accurately check whether the fitting is set torqued accurately. You have to reset them all.
That so?
Again, sorry for the detour.
Thanks,
Rich
 

Howard

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 26, 2007
1,137
Florida/North Jersey
Ford (or Helm) seems to be confused by the wheel nut torque value, too. Page 204-01-1 (Front Suspension) of the 2006 Service Manual shows 98 lb-ft. Twenty-six pages later (204-04-1, Wheels and Tires) calls out 111 lb-ft. By the way, what is the wheel nut size? Feels like 21mm. I'm going to keep a socket and breaker bar in the trunk.

Howard
 

Kingman

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Aug 11, 2006
4,072
Surf City, USA
...By the way, what is the wheel nut size? Feels like 21mm. I'm going to keep a socket and breaker bar in the trunk.

Howard


21mm
 
H

HHGT

Guest
Ford (or Helm) seems to be confused by the wheel nut torque value, too. Page 204-01-1 (Front Suspension) of the 2006 Service Manual shows 98 lb-ft. Twenty-six pages later (204-04-1, Wheels and Tires) calls out 111 lb-ft. By the way, what is the wheel nut size? Feels like 21mm. I'm going to keep a socket and breaker bar in the trunk.

Howard

What Trunk? :willy:willy:willy:willy
 

Indy GT

Yea, I got one...too
Mark IV Lifetime
Jan 14, 2006
2,526
Greenwood, IN
t32b-
You need NOT completely loosen the nuts to retorque. As I believe Shadowman has correctly shared, you should torque all nuts (or bolts) in an assembly in an "increasing" torque value. Thus if the 5 lugnuts are to be ultimately torqued to say 111 ft lbs, first torque all nuts (in a cross wise mannor) to to say 40 ft lbs. After all 5 have been torqued to 40, go over the 5 nuts and increase the torque level to say 80 ft lbs. After accomplishing that go over again and torque to the final value of 111 ft lbs. Never go right to the final torque value in any assembly of multiple bolts/nuts.

If you chech the nut torque after driving the car so many thousand miles (or on the track) you put the torque wrench on the nut and torque it back to 111 ft lbs. No back off is necessary or recommended. If the nut turns on the way up to 111 ft lbs it has obviously loosened during driving and now you know that to be a fact. If you reach the 111 torque level prior to the nut turning the original torque is still there and you just verified that fact. If you loosen the nut prior to trying to torque to 111 ft lbs you will never know if the nut had loosened due to driving.

Does this get you back on track? Hope so...
 
Aug 25, 2006
4,436
t32b-
You need NOT completely loosen the nuts to retorque. As I believe Shadowman has correctly shared, you should torque all nuts (or bolts) in an assembly in an "increasing" torque value. Thus if the 5 lugnuts are to be ultimately torqued to say 111 ft lbs, first torque all nuts (in a cross wise mannor) to to say 40 ft lbs. After all 5 have been torqued to 40, go over the 5 nuts and increase the torque level to say 80 ft lbs. After accomplishing that go over again and torque to the final value of 111 ft lbs. Never go right to the final torque value in any assembly of multiple bolts/nuts.

If you chech the nut torque after driving the car so many thousand miles (or on the track) you put the torque wrench on the nut and torque it back to 111 ft lbs. No back off is necessary or recommended. If the nut turns on the way up to 111 ft lbs it has obviously loosened during driving and now you know that to be a fact. If you reach the 111 torque level prior to the nut turning the original torque is still there and you just verified that fact. If you loosen the nut prior to trying to torque to 111 ft lbs you will never know if the nut had loosened due to driving.

Does this get you back on track? Hope so...


Well stated

I typically set the torque wrench at 65 ........ torque them all then I reset the wrench to 90 and torque them all and then finally reset the wrench and create the final torque of 111.

Takes care

Shadowman