Motorcraft 5W-50 full synthetic


Once again, I agree. The problem is always being able to preheat. You can prelube an engine though, even cold (thick) oil can be pushed to every nook and cranny in the oiling system to protect everything on start up. As I am sure everyone knows, we can do this with the priming steps indicated after the oil change.
 
2112 said:
Once again, I agree. The problem is always being able to preheat. You can prelube an engine though, even cold (thick) oil can be pushed to every nook and cranny in the oiling system to protect everything on start up. As I am sure everyone knows, we can do this with the priming steps indicated after the oil change.
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But I wonder what that do the the starter's lifespan and oil pressure may go too high and burst the filter. I don't know if a bypass is on the engine, the filter surely doesn't have one.

Heating the tank of oil which I will guess holds 7+ guarts would take an AC outlet! Using the battery would kill it in short order.
 
external Pre oilers;

http://engineprelube.com/

http://www.smartsynthetics.com/products/amsoil-prechargers-amk01-amk02.htm

Pre-oiling (aircraft) write up;

http://www.oilamatic.com/engine-tlc.htm

I do use them on my boat motors. I had a lot more access to rig them tho.
 
BlackICE said:
But I wonder what that do the the starter's lifespan and oil pressure may go too high and burst the filter. I don't know if a bypass is on the engine, the filter surely doesn't have one.
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Have you cut apart a filter to confirm there is no By-pass? I have seen a few filters that were labeled as non-bypass only to find a bypass on disassembly.

Also, Will the starter spin the motor fast enough to worry about bursting anything?

Edit, I just remembered the Filter is a canister type, not requiring cutting it apart (duh). That being said, I am unsure it does not have a by-pass so I am asking the question.
 
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2112 said:
Have you cut apart a filter to confirm there is no By-pass? I have seen a few filters that were labeled as non-bypass only to find a bypass on disassembly.

Also, Will the starter spin the motor fast enough to worry about bursting anything?
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Maybe not, but after priming when the engine is running a cold straight 50w would probably pin the meter.
 
Well I agree on the stress of doing it that way. Just tossing out ideas.
 
There is a 75 or 80 psi relief on the oil pump.

Bigger problem with high initial oil pressures due to very viscous oil is the over tension of the timing chains. This is the reason ALL of Ford's OHC mod motors are speced to use a 5Wx range oil.

Just FYI, Ford does not specify the FGT needs to sit and idle for 10 minutes to warm the oil before driving. Just no high loads until fully warmed up. Putting out of your neighborhood below 1500rpm is not a problem on cold oil. Well, above freezing temps where you might actually drive the GT anyway.
 
Pre-oiling and or preheating are always good if you work out the details. The GT pre-oiling procedure works well, but of course wears on the starter a bit. Oil cling is pretty good on today's oils, but most of the film is gone after 48 hrs. I usually pre-oil if the car has not started in more than a week or so and then usually I've planned on a battery top up before. Don't forget the thread earlier about a locked car's battery drain. The alarm system pulls a fair number of milliamps continuously, so if you stand locked for a period and then pre-oil you might find yourself in a weak battery condition if you are not on some sort of charger. And then there is the gauge failure phenomenon that some associate with low batts. Beats me.

But we were talking about oil effectiveness in use. I'm going to take the approach that OEM MC oil is fine for daily driving - putzing around town style, looking at babes. Ford did a lot of work so it must be good for something. But if I want to do more than that, and given that MC 5W50 may not stay 5W50 for very long, I may want a more specialized oil for tracking or more aggressive driving conditions. So, I'm going to go find my oil version of daily driving Bridgestones and harding running Hoosiers for my oil choices.
 
what would be the problem of using Redline?
 
How do you pre-oil? I assume pull the coil wire and turn it over a few times? Thanks, Chad
 
JCO1966 said:
How do you pre-oil? I assume pull the coil wire and turn it over a few times? Thanks, Chad
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Chad, if you hold the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor while pushing start, it will crank the engine without starting.

Jeff
 
blackice said:
i run all types of oils from dino oil from major oil companies to synthetics, i have never had an oil releted engine failure on the cars that i drive. My all of wifes car have had oil "burning" issues which i believe are from poor breakin and continual heavy throttle use when cold from day 1. If you don't track, mile, or push the limits of the car much i doubt that the engine will wear out from use of any reasonable oil. It should last well over 100k without issues.
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amen
 
Hey Jeff, thanks for the info! I never knew that. I joined this forum back in 2006 and did not stay connected due to young kids, business, and everything else that happens in life. I just recently got dialed back in and regret not staying involved in the past! Since getting back involved I appreciate and love my GTs even more now, so a BIG thank you to ALL!
 
jcthorne said:
Bigger problem with high initial oil pressures due to very viscous oil is the over tension of the timing chains. This is the reason ALL of Ford's OHC mod motors are speced to use a 5Wx range oil.
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I have only built Pushrod motors. Does the higher viscosity oil not flow into the tensioners of the timing chains? This is at start up or when up to temp?
 
Sinovac said:
I simply want to know what oil Jeff is using.

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?25832-Catch-Me-If-You-Can&highlight=Catch+me
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GTdrummer said:
Good point.
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Jeff and I both have been using the Motorcraft 5w-50 motor oil.

Ford recommends it, from the beginning, and I find no reason to change it at present. :thumbsup
 
I have an Accufab built engine & I'm using John's recommendation. Mobil 1
Plus a little ZDDP to bring those levels up to Mobil 1 racing oil levels.
 
Who's ZDDP do you use? What weight Mobil 1?
 
Please see this thread from FerrariChat:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136052

I found this to be most interesting... There is a test at the end to make sure the material was understood.....

DJ
 
Wow, That thread has tons of interesting stuff. :thumbsup
 
The high viscosity at cold start up over tensions the chains and the small orifice does not bleed it off quickly, causing significant stress and wear to the forward cam bearing. The chains are tensioned via an oil pressure activated foot.

In the early 90s when the Ford OHC mod motors were first going into Crown Vics and pickups, 5Wx motor oil was not so popular. There were many early cam bearing failures due to wrong weight oil, cold start and cold high rpm use.
 
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