Long time, but I need your help folks!


Happy Feet

Happy Feet

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jun 9, 2009
171
Pasadena, Ca
Hello all,

I have had my car in storage for over a year (major house remodel). I just got my smog check request and my insurance renewal this week. I been really bad, I have not started the GT for a year and half, my bad I know but thing got really busy in my life. I did put a brand new Die Hard battery before I put the GT in storage and it is on a trickle charger. What is the best way to start the car up? Is there a method for a car that has been sitting this long? From what I have read in the forum is to putting the throttle to the floor for 20 seconds to get the oil to flow. It was also suggested that you drive the about 1 hour before I take to get smog. Is this correct? Is there anything else I need to do am I missing thing?

Best regards,

Chuck Stygar
 
I don't think anyone has really identified the gauge failure issue. Personally I think it is a grounding issue but it seems to occur on cars that have been in storage (on a trickle charger). I'd deffinately check the battery ground, I might even double check the ground on the gauge cluster.

Oil should prime itself, just make sure the car is on level ground, even having the back raised 3-4 inches can impede the oil pick-up. I have heard the oil pump belt should be changed if the car sits for a long time.
 
Happy Feet said:
What is the best way to start the car up?
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After sitting for that long, I'd definitely use the priming procedure!


1. Clutch in (ALL the way to the floor), car in neutral;
2. Turn key all the way on... wait a second or two to let gauges initialize
3. Floor the gas pedal and hold it
4. Push and hold the start button for 20 sec or until Oil Pressure is seen on the gauge - whichever is sooner.
5. Let go of start button
6. Let up on gas pedal
7. Turn key-off
8. Turn key on - wait a couple of seconds for gauges to initialize
9. Press start button and car will start normally (You should see oil pressure within the first second or two after ignition)


Happy Feet said:
It was also suggested that you drive the about 1 hour before I take to get smog. Is this correct?
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Someone here said it should be driven at least 25 miles...but, certainly a 1 hr drive in NORMAL traffic(!) ought to get the job done!
 
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Thanks guy,

Really appreciate the advice on firing the GT up! Man I really missed driving this car. I can not wait to take it out and stretch its legs. My house should be done in September; I will get a fresh set of shoes and a tune up then. Again thanks for the advice!

Best Regards,

Chuck Stygar
 
Happy Feet said:
... I been really bad, I have not started the GT for a year and half...
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'FORGOT TO MENTION:

Your GT ought to have an oil/filter change BEFORE you start it given how long it's been idle...regardless of whether the oil in it was "used' or brand new when you 'parked' the car. But, it ESPECIALLY ought to be changed before starting if the oil was "used/old" at the time it was parked.

The general consensus is the FGT's oil should be changed once a year regardless of the number of miles driven...or the lack thereof.

:cheers
 
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Step 0.5: Make sure previous mechanics eyeglasses are not under throttle pedal :)
 
Empty Pockets said:
The general consensus is the FGT's oil should be changed once a year regardless of the number of miles driven...or the lack thereof.

:cheers
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I love how you talk about yourself in the 3rd person (or is it fourth?)
 
Not to disagree with the esteemed EP, but if the oil was newly changed when put away, is it really necessary to change the oil with full synthetic? If taken for an hour drive or so I would think any moisture that may have built up, if any, would evaporate. I am for sure not an expert, but maybe one of our experts could chime in. If it was put away with older or used oil to begin with, I would change it for sure.
 
GT35065 said:
Not to disagree with the esteemed EP...
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Why not? Everybody else does! (I liked that "esteemed" part, BTW! :rofl)


GT35065 said:
...but if the oil was newly changed when put away, is it really necessary to change the oil with full synthetic?
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Not as far as I'm concerned! What I said was, "The GENERAL CONSENSUS is the FGT's oil should be changed once a year regardless of the number of miles driven." I personally think it's nuts too. E.g.: 'Changed to synthetic in my dump truck a couple years ago after I last used it...started it up to circulate the new oil...shut it off...haven't run it since (it HAS been turned over every month or so, though) , and that same oil is still in it. (And before someone asks; yes, the battery is on a charger...and, yes, the tires are over-inflated! :tongue)
 
RPM217 said:
I love how you talk about yourself in the 3rd person (or is it fourth?)
Click to expand...


May the lice of 10,000 camels grow and fester in a place you can't scratch. :slap
 
Empty Pockets said:
'FORGOT TO MENTION:

Your GT ought to have an oil/filter change BEFORE you start it given how long it's been idle...regardless of whether the oil in it was "used' or brand new when you 'parked' the car. But, it ESPECIALLY ought to be changed before starting if the oil was "used/old" at the time it was parked.

:cheers
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I think I disagree with this one. I religiously change oil on engines that have been sitting for a while (or will sit for a while), and did my own oil changes for years (not any more - too hard to dispose of the waste oil). But I always let the engine run before changing it. If moisture has accumulated you'll just be leaving it behind. Also any "gunk" will no longer be in suspension. Run the engine (I think the priming maneuver would not hurt anything), let it warm up to operating temp, then change it. Sure, let it sit for things to drain (recommendation for oil check time is <1min after turning off the key), but not on a cold engine that has sit for a long time.

Just my 2c.
 
Yeah, I've heard that point of view before. Many agree with it. I'm just not one of 'em! :lol :cheers


(Edit: Just to make sure we're talkin' apples to apples here, I'm assuming we're talking about an engine that's always had regular, timely oil/filter changes. Such an engine, IMO, would not have any sludge built up anywhere. I've had the 'pan off several engines in my street machines over the years and have NEVER found sludge in any of them...nor have I found any laying around the studs/valve stem area when I've removed the rocker covers to set the valves. 'Just sayin'. :cheers :thumbsup)
 
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Seriously,
One question: Does the car (or oil) know if it's been six months or a year parked ?
 
ROCK said:
Seriously,
One question: Does the car (or oil) know if it's been six months or a year parked ?
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IMO no, other than some very minor oxidation from sitting around.

If you fill an engine with new oil and never ran the engine IMO the oil would be almost like new years later.

If you fill an engnine with new oil and drove 10, 1 miles trips on 10 different days and stored the oil for a year I would dump it out.

If you really want to know the condition of the oil you can have it tested.
 
Here is a kind of related question. How about gas? If a GT has been sitting around for some time; and it was desired to replace the gas; what is the best way of getting gas out of a GT?

Thanks
 
33Bravo said:
Here is a kind of related question. How about gas? If a GT has been sitting around for some time; and it was desired to replace the gas; what is the best way of getting gas out of a GT?

Thanks
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If the gas isn't too old less than a year and I would just drive it. It is a sealed system so less problems than classic cars where the volatile stuff evaporates out, air get in to oxidizes whats left and you end up with gunk in the tank. Just don't beat on the car assuming the gas is perfect.

To remove the gas is a PITA and could be dangerous. I think you can remove the trunk liner and remove a hose to siphon the gas out, or detach a fuel line and jumper the fuel pumps to turn on.
 
Empty Pockets said:
Yeah, I've heard that point of view before. Many agree with it. I'm just not one of 'em! :lol :cheers


(Edit: Just to make sure we're talkin' apples to apples here, I'm assuming we're talking about an engine that's always had regular, timely oil/filter changes. Such an engine, IMO, would not have any sludge built up anywhere. I've had the 'pan off several engines in my street machines over the years and have NEVER found sludge in any of them...nor have I found any laying around the studs/valve stem area when I've removed the rocker covers to set the valves. 'Just sayin'. :cheers :thumbsup)
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I think my concern (having grown up on a farm with tractors and farm trucks) is more about moisture buildup than "sludge" - that's the job of the oil filter. If you've got a real buildup in the bottom of the pan you've got a service problem - need to change more often - but the dry sump system on the GT changes that. I'm a believer in circulating things before changing fluids. I also wouldn't change the coolant without a warmup. I do them on the down cycle, but not after letting something sit for a while (as was common on farm equipment during the spring refresh.)

I just changed the oil on my snow blower before I put it away this last weekend. I put Stabil in the gas tand and ran it for about 4-5 minutes and drained it. It got the untreated gas out of the carb and warmed it up enough to drain everything (no oil filter!!!).

Just a habit I guess. My Grandpa taught me... Ford N1 and IH and Farmall.
 
'Different strokes for different folks, Tony! :cheers



"...is more about moisture buildup than "sludge"..."

I doubt anyone but Jeffey sweats "moisture buildup" where their GTs are concerned! (He uses his GT as a snow plow, for Pete's sake! :lol) But, as far as the rest of us are concerned, I'd bet 99% of all GTs sit in at least well insulated garages (if not climate controlled ones) when not in use. Moisture just isn't likely to be an issue in such cases. I can see where sweating the moisture thing may be a big deal in the case of farm equipment parked in a barn or parked outside over the winter, but, that's a whole different kettle of fish. :wink :thumbsup:thumbsup
 
BlackICE said:
If the gas isn't too old less than a year and I would just drive it. It is a sealed system so less problems than classic cars where the volatile stuff evaporates out, air get in to oxidizes whats left and you end up with gunk in the tank. Just don't beat on the car assuming the gas is perfect.

To remove the gas is a PITA and could be dangerous. I think you can remove the trunk liner and remove a hose to siphon the gas out, or detach a fuel line and jumper the fuel pumps to turn on.
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No simple siphon hose down the fuel filler neck strategies? I've got a GT that I'd like to get the gas out and some fresh gas in (the obvious answer of just driving it is not an option in this case..)
 
Yep, storage conditions make all the difference in the world. As does the dry sump oiling system on the GT. Probably not many places for moisture to build up. I'll still warm mine up before changing the oil though :)
 
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