How to take out the instrument panel?

[wonkawonka]

Hello, I have an issue that the manual doesn't explain very well. I suppose it's the '05 manual with a bunch of mistakes:
How do I remove the instrument panel with the gauges? It says to remove the 6 screws (there are actually 7) and then unplug each gauge's electrical connector before pulling out the panel. But how does one get to those electrical connectors? Nowhere in the manual does it say how to get to them.
Anyone's got an idea?

Thanks!

 

[MAD IN NC]

first off - line the dash with blue tape!

lots of blue tape as when you inch the panel out it could/ will scratch the leather trim.

after the screws are out best way I found is to grab the gauge bezels (speedo and tach) and gently and slowly rock and pull the panel towards you.

once out and you can feel the resistance or the wiring, you'll have to get cable cutters behind the panel to cut the cable ties. Then disconnect the gauge connectors.

BTW - you never did mention why you are doing this. Bad Gauge? if so focus on replacement of the one device which doesn't require the removal of the whole cluster. My tach replacement took~20 minutes

 

[wonkawonka]

Thanks for the quick response!
I'm doing this to take out the faulty speedometer (yep, I'm one of those). I did grab the gauge bezels and rocked and pulled and all, and I got them moved by probably an inch, just enough to maybe, just maybe, slide some wire cutter behind the panel. But where would I find the zip ties (I suppose that's what the cable ties are)? I don't think I even have enough space to take a peek inside.

 

[nota4re]

Here's my step by step...

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?20781-Gauge-Replacement-How-to&highlight=instrument

 

[wonkawonka]

Thanks for the pointers and all the info, but I still can't get it to come out. It looks like the speedometer is stuck. The whole left side will happily come out, but the speedo part is a no-go.
I've removed the higher Y-plug on the driver side and unplugged the cable tie (didn't cut anything), and verified the thing was loose. So I really don't know what else to do.

 

[nota4re]

A couple of things that you can try. First, make sure that you remain patient and don't get frustrated and too aggresive! With the left side pulled forward not more than 25mm, try to change the angle, tilting the top of the assembly down and/or up as you are pulling forward. Again, be gentle as you do not want to break anything. Each panel we have removed is slightly different. Some will come right out and others are a little more stubborn like yours!

If this doesn't work, you will need to remove the lower instrument panel (IP). (This is not as bad as it sounds!) Typically, the lower panel comes out relatively easily and you will likely need a helper to do it correctly. Start on the driver's side and pull up the weather strippinging the lower IP. Then you want to manuer your hands such that you can deliver a gentle yet sharp thrust toward you to pop the clips holding the IP in place. The whole trick is that you want to make sure that your are positioning your hands so that the sharp thrust is targetted at the clips and NOT where any energy will bend the IP. As soon as you get the first couple of clips (and they're the easiest over on the driver's side), you'll get the hang of it. Just go slow and careful and have a friend to help to support the panel. Immediately above the START button, the panel is only 25mm wide. Support this area well and NEVER let the panel bend here during the removal. This is mostly what the helper is for!

With the IP panel off, make sure that you have all of the metal clips attached to the IP and not still stuck in the dash or lower knee plate. If any are stuck, use a pair of needle nose pliars and remove them from the dash and then attach them to the corresponding tab on the IP you just removed. You may want to squeeze them with the pliars a bit so that the clips press on firmly to the IP. Now, remove the screws holding the lower metal plate in place. With these items removed, you can now get a few fingers behind the Speedometer and this will allow you the extra leverage to to push the back of the speedo forward.

I hope this helps. You can reply, email or PM me and I will help you. PM me and I will give you my cell number if you prefer to talk by phone.

 

[wonkawonka]

Thanks nota4re. After trying again and failing (the panel near that damn speedo is totally stuck), I stopped and decided I'd wait to get a new speedo anyway.
What would be the best way to get a speedo and ship it overseas? I could ask the local ford dealer I guess, but I worry about its complete incompetence.

 

[nota4re]

Pm me as I can get the speedo for you. Give me your shipping address so the I can give you am accurate shipping quote.

 

[Kayvan]

great advice...never work on GT when tired, frustrated, mad....its too nice to make a mistake.

I couldnt fit my kick plate in last week. set it down and came back a week later.

Slipped in perfectly when i looked at it with clear head and cool, and rested.

 

[Gene Cassone]

Great thread!! My tach went 1 month ago. I see MAD IN NC removed it without the entire dash! Explain! Any news yet on what is causing the problem? I am probably going to live with it until winter. but I hate the idea it may happen again until the problem is found. With all these gauges going the supply will probably be exhausted soon!!

 

[t32b]

Not wanting to hijack this thread but I have a related question regarding a dead/stuck fuel level gauge. It's set on 'full'. Is there a way to know if it's the gauge? The tank (ugh)? Something else? FWIW the gauge went out about a year ago (yea, I'm slow to take care of these things). About a month ago the oil pressure gauge also went out grounding the car. At that point, I replaced the battery (I have a 2005 so it just made sense and all of the threads linking batteries and gauges compelled me to take this tack) and gave the ground wire attachment a bit of a sanding. That fixed the oil pressure gauge (and I could drive the car again) but the fuel gauge did not budge.
So whadaya think?
Rich

 

[BlackICE]

Ford dealers have a tool that can test all of the guages by giving them a command to move the needle to a given position. That test would let you know if it is the gauge or something else like the sensor.

 

[t32b]

Many thanks. I'll call the folks in Redwood City. I recently met the owner and he offered help. They DID screw up my car two years ago quite badly (I hope I'm allowed to say that on the forum) (and Shadowman had to spend a lot of time unscrewing it) but a plug in test seems to be within their capabilities.
Rich

 

[fjpikul]

It's highly unlikely to be the ultrasonic sender in the tank. New gauge time.

 

[nota4re]

It's highly unlikely to be the ultrasonic sender in the tank. New gauge time.

Agreed. Additional tests most likely a waste of time.

 

[BlackICE]

Agreed. Additional tests most likely a waste of time.

As you say it is most likely the gauge. However if you have a Ford VCM/IDS handy as all Ford dealers do as some independent shops like Shadowman does. It would be a simple matter taking only a few minutes to verify that it is a gauge problem. Saving you from dismantling the instrument panel and buying a gauge you might not need.

IMO investing in the proper tools, whether it is a VCM/IDS or halon leak detector makes problem diagnosis and repair verification easier to do and saves the shop time and the customer money. That is one reason why I never take any of my cars to the "corner garage" for repairs. Those shops are typically under capitalized and rarely invest in tools that I believe are necessary to do a complete and through job.

http://www.autotool-mall.com/products/Ford-Rotunda-Dealer-IDS-VCM-Newest-Version-V70_643.html
http://www.uobd2.com/products/product.asp?id=1323

 

[t32b]

You make an excellent point. With cars like ours, the notion of a quick diagnosis at a local shop is very rare. And I really don't welcome the notion of the car being in the hands of inadequately trained techs. But there is a law of diminishing returns in trying to accumulate all of the tools necessary to make the wide range of diagnoses required. OTOH I can't just ship the car off to my favorite shop for every little issue and question (sorry Shadowman, it's just a long haul) that I may have for the car. So this site is so valuable in bridging that gap of knowledge and recommendations.
And I may have a means of determining (despite the fact that it's very unlikely to be the sender) where the problem lies. Apparently the OBD-2 port dumps info from the sender (or I have been led to believe it does) and I have a number of means of interrogating that info.
Rich

As you say it is most likely the gauge. However if you have a Ford VCM/IDS handy as all Ford dealers do as some independent shops like Shadowman does. It would be a simple matter taking only a few minutes to verify that it is a gauge problem. Saving you from dismantling the instrument panel and buying a gauge you might not need.

IMO investing in the proper tools, whether it is a VCM/IDS or halon leak detector makes problem diagnosis and repair verification easier to do and saves the shop time and the customer money. That is one reason why I never take any of my cars to the "corner garage" for repairs. Those shops are typically under capitalized and rarely invest in tools that I believe are necessary to do a complete and through job.