I just installed Hoosiers on my car, and I've heard there is a specific "break-in" to be followed in order to get the best out of the tires. Anyone know what that is exactly? Thanks.
Hoosier break in?
- Thread starter Gulf GT
- Start date
It will be hard to break them in on the street. They need to be run hard for 3 - 4 laps , then let them cool .
If you go to the Tire Rack site, under hoosier you will find what you need and more. I am about to break in a new set myself, and according to the directions for best break in, (on a road course) drive for appox. 15 min of break in, starting slow, then faster then make the last lap at speed. Then remove from car, let them cool for a 24 hour period. How in hell am I supposed to do that on a 2 day track event? lol good luck with yours, as I will need luck with mine..
Gino
probably not a bad idea to put some heat in 'em for a couple laps to scrub them in. That's what I often see at the track. You can't spend too much time worrying about it as they're only going to last a couple weekends anyway . . . 
S592R
GT Owner
- Dec 3, 2006
- 2,800
Tire rack offers a hear cycle service on hoosiers. They can also shave them for you too.
If you can find a large parking lot somewhere you can run your own "mini skid pad" by just driving the car in a controlled circle up to about 30 miles an hour or so ... fairly tight. then turn around the other way and do about the same number of laps do that three times each way. that will heat the tires up enough for a quick fix ... but the cool down period is very important. its not the best way to do it ... but its better than running on non-cycled tires.
just an fyi ... nothing I would condone as "a must do" .... as above ... I have tire rack do it for me. But if you can't its better than having slick tires and eating a wall.:ack :ack
If you can find a large parking lot somewhere you can run your own "mini skid pad" by just driving the car in a controlled circle up to about 30 miles an hour or so ... fairly tight. then turn around the other way and do about the same number of laps do that three times each way. that will heat the tires up enough for a quick fix ... but the cool down period is very important. its not the best way to do it ... but its better than running on non-cycled tires.
just an fyi ... nothing I would condone as "a must do" .... as above ... I have tire rack do it for me. But if you can't its better than having slick tires and eating a wall.:ack :ack
Hoosiers
No shaving needed for the R6 Hoosiers. Molded to 4.5. Order them heat cycled & go have fun!
Ed
http://www.hoosiertire.com
No shaving needed for the R6 Hoosiers. Molded to 4.5. Order them heat cycled & go have fun!
Ed
http://www.hoosiertire.com
Thank you for the advice...I returned the tires to Tire Rack, and for $15. each they heat cycled them. Great service and money well spent.
Gino
MMP Inc.
Well-known member
Just spoke to Tim a tech at Hoosier in Indiana and they don't recommend the way Tire Rack does their heat cycling and asked me to post the link on here for you all to see what they recommend.
https://www.hoosiertire.com/Tctips.htm
Hoosier also does not offer them heat cycled from the factory either.
Hope this helps!
Jack @ MMP
https://www.hoosiertire.com/Tctips.htm
Hoosier also does not offer them heat cycled from the factory either.
Hope this helps!
Jack @ MMP
Last edited:
PL510*Jeff
Well-known member
Heat cycling Tires
Always been my practice to heat cycle the old fashioned way - on the race track.
Leo M. of Goodyear was a speaker at a racecar preparation symposium I attended a couple of years ago. His comments, on the oven method of heat cycling, was pretty straight forward. Oven cycling the tires was fine for the wear surface but did little to the rest of the tire. Beads, belting layers and sidewall layers need the physical heat cycling and stretching that only comes from having them on a car on the track. Acceleration, braking and braking are all needed to properly heat cycle and brake-in race tires.
He said the largest advantage to oven heat cycling is that the first 24 hour cool down period is over prior to your ever receiving the tires. The second heat cycle, done at the track on the car, (i.e. practice or qualifying) leaves the tires race ready after a one to two hour second cool down period.
There lots of heat cycle opinions floating around the race community.
I usually call the manufacturers race tire development engineer when I change models or brands. I ask them about their heat cycling recommendations, pressure settings, camber and suspension settings.
Their suggestions vary greatly from mfr to mfr, radial vs bias ply, molded tread depth vs shaving. You get the picture. The last couple of years the advice has changed quite a bit, mostly due to the new "rubber" compounds and tire construction changes.
The old adage still holds true - Ask the Guy's who designed it, built it, broke it and repaired it.
Just like we are able to do with out GT questions that come up on this wonderful Forum. I feel so fortunate to have met The GT Guys, Roush and Saleen folks and the SVT GT Team members over the last two years. To be able to ask questions and to get advice and answers from the designers and builders is PRICELESS. :thumbsup
Always been my practice to heat cycle the old fashioned way - on the race track.
Leo M. of Goodyear was a speaker at a racecar preparation symposium I attended a couple of years ago. His comments, on the oven method of heat cycling, was pretty straight forward. Oven cycling the tires was fine for the wear surface but did little to the rest of the tire. Beads, belting layers and sidewall layers need the physical heat cycling and stretching that only comes from having them on a car on the track. Acceleration, braking and braking are all needed to properly heat cycle and brake-in race tires.
He said the largest advantage to oven heat cycling is that the first 24 hour cool down period is over prior to your ever receiving the tires. The second heat cycle, done at the track on the car, (i.e. practice or qualifying) leaves the tires race ready after a one to two hour second cool down period.
There lots of heat cycle opinions floating around the race community.
I usually call the manufacturers race tire development engineer when I change models or brands. I ask them about their heat cycling recommendations, pressure settings, camber and suspension settings.
Their suggestions vary greatly from mfr to mfr, radial vs bias ply, molded tread depth vs shaving. You get the picture. The last couple of years the advice has changed quite a bit, mostly due to the new "rubber" compounds and tire construction changes.
The old adage still holds true - Ask the Guy's who designed it, built it, broke it and repaired it.
Just like we are able to do with out GT questions that come up on this wonderful Forum. I feel so fortunate to have met The GT Guys, Roush and Saleen folks and the SVT GT Team members over the last two years. To be able to ask questions and to get advice and answers from the designers and builders is PRICELESS. :thumbsup
Last edited:
mousecatcher
GT Owner
At least from tire rack, they do not use an oven. They put the tire on a roller thingy, causing sidewall and tread deflection, simulating on-car conditions.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=66
Is it worth $15? dunno.
Call Hoosier and ask them. They like hearing from end users and also like answering questions. They always gave me starightforward answers.