Well - I took the plunge and just brought a four-option '06 with 4.5K miles on it (with a new Ford GT spec Optima battery and a new alternator). After driving the car about 30 minutes, the follow repeatedly happens. The Check Gage and ABS lights turn on and then the other gauges fail. The voltometer gauge shows low. After I turn the car off, it doesn't restart due to low battery. It seems that when the car is on, it is draining the battery. Any ideas??? Its driving me crazy.
HELP!! Charging / Alternator problem
- Thread starter RMaximillian
- Start date
Use the 'Forum's "search" feature & you'll get more info on this subject than you'd ever want!:lol
But, basically, 'sounds like you need to clean the battery ground cable contact point on the chassis (sand/grind the mounting point bare), and check/clean both ends of the cable (pbly make sure the "+" cable is clean too). THEN >TRICKLE CHARGE< the battery (DO NOT RAPID CHARGE IT...'will wreck the battery) for a day or 2 to get the charge up full.
Odds are you'll be fine after that.
(The battery is UNDER the front "boot" on the driver's side. The trickle charger "port" is on the dash beside the starter button covered with a black plug.)
Edit: Hereafter, always keep the car on a trickle charge when it's parked. The factory recommends that you do so "whenever the car is going to be sitting for more than 2 weeks"...but, since the onboard 'peuters are draining the battery 24/7, almost EVERYBODY here just makes it a point to "trickle" anytime the car's sitting.
BTW - CONGATS ON THE PURCHASE!!!! :thumbsup:thumbsup
And Happy Thanksgiving! :thumbsup :cheers
But, basically, 'sounds like you need to clean the battery ground cable contact point on the chassis (sand/grind the mounting point bare), and check/clean both ends of the cable (pbly make sure the "+" cable is clean too). THEN >TRICKLE CHARGE< the battery (DO NOT RAPID CHARGE IT...'will wreck the battery) for a day or 2 to get the charge up full.
Odds are you'll be fine after that.
(The battery is UNDER the front "boot" on the driver's side. The trickle charger "port" is on the dash beside the starter button covered with a black plug.)
Edit: Hereafter, always keep the car on a trickle charge when it's parked. The factory recommends that you do so "whenever the car is going to be sitting for more than 2 weeks"...but, since the onboard 'peuters are draining the battery 24/7, almost EVERYBODY here just makes it a point to "trickle" anytime the car's sitting.
BTW - CONGATS ON THE PURCHASE!!!! :thumbsup:thumbsup
And Happy Thanksgiving! :thumbsup :cheers
Last edited:
Kayvan
GT Owner
- Jul 13, 2006
- 4,782
Put the OEM charger in zippered pouch, in trunk, in cigarett lighter; leave on for a few days.
If doors pop open/lights flash try starting and drive 100+ miles.
Whats the cars history with changing the alternator?
Have not heard of many doing that with that mileage. Maybe you can have one of the dealers here run your VIN # to check service history. If its had this isuue before, it might not even be the alternator, but some interim connection.
If doors pop open/lights flash try starting and drive 100+ miles.
Whats the cars history with changing the alternator?
Have not heard of many doing that with that mileage. Maybe you can have one of the dealers here run your VIN # to check service history. If its had this isuue before, it might not even be the alternator, but some interim connection.
Here are some things i would try if the car was here.
1. Remove plastic clips and pull out the front tray to access the battery.
2. Make sure battery cables are secured properly to the battery and are nice and clean.
3. Trace the ground wire until the point where it attached to the frame. You should remove this bolt and using a small piece of emery cloth, make sure the surface is nice and shiny. Re-attach bolt.
4. Using a common voltmeter, check the voltage level of the battery.
5. If it is below 11.7v, you need to charge it with a good-quality trickle charger.
6. At the Battery Junction Box (BJB) - the fuse box on the driver's side of the battery, check fuse F1.15. This is the alternator fuse. It may be blown.
7. For kicks and giggles, go to the rear passenger side of the car with a flashlight. Get down on your knees and shine the flashlight in 2-3" to the right an 1-2 inches below the right exhaust tip. You are looking between the transaxle and the right catalytic converter. Your flashlight beam should be on the starter solenoid and the big battery cable going to it. Make sure this all looks good and that nothing is melted or no exhaust components are too close to the battery connection on the solenoid.
8. With you battery freshly re-charged, once again get an ignition-off battery voltage. Start the car.
9. Let the car idle. Re-check the battery voltage. It should be 13.8-14.0v. If it is, your alternator is working properly. (I would seriously doubt that the car need a new alternator in the first place.)
10. If all this checks out you have either a bad battery or just one that needs charging. Note that these batteries do NOT like to be brought back from the dead.... Regardless, try slow-charging it with a good quality trickle charger.
11. Your gauge "problem" is because the battery voltage is low.
Let us know what you find. Oh, and if you worried that you got a lemon or something, just relax. These cars are very reliable and once we get this minor glitch resolved, I'm sure you will have a big smile back!!
PM me if you want to chat by phone...
1. Remove plastic clips and pull out the front tray to access the battery.
2. Make sure battery cables are secured properly to the battery and are nice and clean.
3. Trace the ground wire until the point where it attached to the frame. You should remove this bolt and using a small piece of emery cloth, make sure the surface is nice and shiny. Re-attach bolt.
4. Using a common voltmeter, check the voltage level of the battery.
5. If it is below 11.7v, you need to charge it with a good-quality trickle charger.
6. At the Battery Junction Box (BJB) - the fuse box on the driver's side of the battery, check fuse F1.15. This is the alternator fuse. It may be blown.
7. For kicks and giggles, go to the rear passenger side of the car with a flashlight. Get down on your knees and shine the flashlight in 2-3" to the right an 1-2 inches below the right exhaust tip. You are looking between the transaxle and the right catalytic converter. Your flashlight beam should be on the starter solenoid and the big battery cable going to it. Make sure this all looks good and that nothing is melted or no exhaust components are too close to the battery connection on the solenoid.
8. With you battery freshly re-charged, once again get an ignition-off battery voltage. Start the car.
9. Let the car idle. Re-check the battery voltage. It should be 13.8-14.0v. If it is, your alternator is working properly. (I would seriously doubt that the car need a new alternator in the first place.)
10. If all this checks out you have either a bad battery or just one that needs charging. Note that these batteries do NOT like to be brought back from the dead.... Regardless, try slow-charging it with a good quality trickle charger.
11. Your gauge "problem" is because the battery voltage is low.
Let us know what you find. Oh, and if you worried that you got a lemon or something, just relax. These cars are very reliable and once we get this minor glitch resolved, I'm sure you will have a big smile back!!
PM me if you want to chat by phone...
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
More than anything else; "relax"
You made a good decision and you and your gal will be fine.
The issue is likely as shared; allow the battery to become fully charged and then take some time to get to know each other.
If I can help let me know
All the best
Shadowman
Well, the battery charges up, and can start the car repeatedly, but when the car starts, the volt meter is in the low red area and stays there the whole time. Battery starts to drain. Check the fuse for the alternator, and it appears fine. It seems once the car starts, it does not power itself, it uses the battery to power the electronics.
Check/fix the battery ground as described above. 99% of the time that's the source of pblms like the ones you're experiencing.
- Aug 25, 2006
- 4,436
Have a load test completed on the alternator as there is always the possibility that the stator and or regulator within failed.
If so the replacing of it is painless as such "relaxing" remains the word of the day
Takes care
Shadowman
So, either a bad alternator (which would be strange, since you just replaced it) or something odd between the alternator and battery. With car running, can you check voltage right at the alternator itself? (Driver's side - just aft of the bulkhead.)
Thanks for everyone's thorough responses. You guys are great.
I did most of what was recommended (except checking the voltage coming out of the new alternator (don't really have the right equipment). I'm taking it back to the dealer I purchased it from and we'll see if we can get it right today (I really want to drive it this weekend!)
I did most of what was recommended (except checking the voltage coming out of the new alternator (don't really have the right equipment). I'm taking it back to the dealer I purchased it from and we'll see if we can get it right today (I really want to drive it this weekend!)
I had an Aston Martin that behaved in a similar way many years ago and it turned out to be the alternator (as already suggested).
Hopefully your local dealer is a good one and is experienced with GT's.....
Hopefully your local dealer is a good one and is experienced with GT's.....
UPDATE: Ok - got the car back yesterday. It turned out to be a faulty connection in one of the wire harness which connects to a relay. Drove it last night for about 50 miles. Runs great now! Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions!
Kinda ironic, isn't it. A "6 figure" car brought to a halt by a 10 cent part!
'Glad it was something simple to fix...
'Glad it was something simple to fix...