Got new Penske shocks. Which springs to order ?


2112

Blue/white 06'
Mark II Lifetime
How many with the Penskes have gone thru the rebuild process so far?

What I am really wondering is how many have are still on the original build years after the recommended service interval?
 

Wwabbit

GT Owner
Mar 21, 2012
1,259
Knoxville, TN
never mind, found my answer
 
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2112

Blue/white 06'
Mark II Lifetime
How many with the Penskes have gone thru the rebuild process so far?

What I am really wondering is how many have are still on the original build years after the recommended service interval?

OK, I will admit it, I am approaching the 2 year mark and have not rebuilt mine yet.

This is where Ed Sims chimes in and reminds us of his race team caliber service outlet (Shadowman) who rebuilds his right on time. :lol
 

2112

Blue/white 06'
Mark II Lifetime
Scott, here is the picture of my car, lowered 1" in the rear and 1.25" in the front. I plan to bring the rear up .25" tho.
 

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sahlman

Ford GT Team Alumni
Jul 21, 2011
329
Verona, WI
Scott, here is the picture of my car, lowered 1" in the rear and 1.25" in the front. I plan to bring the rear up .25" tho.

Michael, My new favorite GT color combo!! Midnight blue no side stripes with red calipers. Is it faster than the other color combo's?! :lol

For sure like the stance a lot and a hair more rake will look good. Just wasn't feasible for the average usage and sale by Ford as noted earlier.

Note the front wheel opening ended up slightly bigger than necessary because they were orginally sized for 245 wide tires instead of the final 235's.

Scott
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
Note the front wheel opening ended up slightly bigger than necessary because they were orginally sized for 245 wide tires instead of the final 235's.

Scott

Scott I am following all of your recommendations.
Running Hoosiers R6 in 245x40x18 in the front
 

2112

Blue/white 06'
Mark II Lifetime
Not me, The Avon lady tires were first to go. I run 265 up front 345 in rear with absolutely no rubbing. Of course I am not running at Nardo either. :lol
 

Gulf GT

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Feb 9, 2006
1,539
California
Scott I am following all of your recommendations.
Running Hoosiers R6 in 245x40x18 in the front

Ditto.
 

sahlman

Ford GT Team Alumni
Jul 21, 2011
329
Verona, WI
Scott I am following all of your recommendations.
Running Hoosiers R6 in 245x40x18 in the front
BlackIce and Gulf GT, what rear tire size?
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
Running Hoosier R6 315x40x19

I put T&A sleeves on the shocks and lowered the car about 1" I didn't re-align the suspension though. I know this probably decrease the camber a little and I hope it doesn't do anything bad to the toe.

After mounting the hoosiers I can tell that the outer 2" of the rear tires never touch the ground if you aren't cornering hard. Is that too much negative camber?
 
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sahlman

Ford GT Team Alumni
Jul 21, 2011
329
Verona, WI
Running Hoosier R8 315x40x19

I put T&A sleeves on the shocks and lowered the car about 1" I didn't re-align the suspension though. I know this probably decrease the camber a little and I hope it doesn't do anything bad to the toe.

After mounting the hoosiers I can tell that the outer 2" of the rear tires never touch the ground if you aren't cornering hard. Is that too much negative camber?

Understood on tire rear size. A little harder compound than the front and same width as stock so tick less width split, which should loosen the balance a hair, but at least you have more camber split now rear versus front due to lowering, which helps bring the balance back in line. Plus the lack of resetting toe will tighten the car a little more.

With 1" lower you have about 0.5 deg more negative camber at the front (~-1.0 deg total) and 0.75 deg more negative at the back (~-2.0 deg total). For the street this is a fair amount of camber. Good for cornering and handling balance, but hurts straightline accel, tire wear/life, rut following and probably ride a little. If you were to reduce cambers make sure to keep the split front to rear. I would think about -0.5 deg front and -1.5 deg rear with your tires. (stock is -0.5 front, -1.25 deg rear).

Toe - you definitely should reset toe with the 1" lowering for tire wear and tracking straight versus the car hunting. The toe curves are very linear and not a lot of toe change with travel, but still should be reset to stock.

Scott
 

BlackICE

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2005
1,416
SF Bay Area in California
Typo R6 not R8

Scott the Hoosier are both R6 not R8.

Thanks for the alignment information. I think I will have to get some shim and take it to an alignment shop. Since I lowered the car which size shims should I go for, bigger or smaller?
 

Gulf GT

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Feb 9, 2006
1,539
California
BlackIce and Gulf GT, what rear tire size?

Rear is 315/40/ZR19
 

Gulf GT

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Feb 9, 2006
1,539
California
Scott the Hoosier are both R6 not R8.

Thanks for the alignment information. I think I will have to get some shim and take it to an alignment shop. Since I lowered the car which size shims should I go for, bigger or smaller?

I can't remember the exact changes we made, but we did take the car and had a new alignment done as it was off from installing the 3-way Penskes.
 

sahlman

Ford GT Team Alumni
Jul 21, 2011
329
Verona, WI
Sounds good on both Gulf GT.
 

sahlman

Ford GT Team Alumni
Jul 21, 2011
329
Verona, WI
Scott the Hoosier are both R6 not R8.

Thanks for the alignment information. I think I will have to get some shim and take it to an alignment shop. Since I lowered the car which size shims should I go for, bigger or smaller?

Understood on compound. No problem on alignment notes. Sent you a PM on shims.

Scott
 

dpdive

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Feb 23, 2009
93
Buffalo, NY
So here is another question for Scott. I'm running Hoosier 225/40R18 fronts & 315/40R19 rears. I have the T&A Penske single adjustables and the car has been lowered 1" in the front and 3/4" in the rear. The alignment has been changed twice, both of which are to Alex's specs that came with the shocks. The first time we used:
Street and overall performance use:
Camber in the front –1.10 deg. + or – 0.10 deg.
Toe in front (positive is toe in) -0.05 deg. Total + or – 0.05 deg.
Camber in the Rear -2.20 deg. + or – 0.10 deg.
Toe in Rear (positive is toe in) 0.12 deg. Total + or 0.025 deg.

I have since changed to:
Track usage & Light Street use
Camber in the front –1.75 deg. + or – 0.10 deg.
Toe in front (positive is toe in) -0.05 deg. Total + or – 0.05 deg.
Camber in the Rear -2.80 deg. + or – 0.10 deg.
Toe in Rear (positive is toe in) 0.12 deg. Total + or 0.025 deg.

Here is the issue, the car is super tight mostly into the corner and through the middle and not quite as bad coming off. When we looked at the tires most all of the wear was on the inside two thirds of the tire. The outer third is making very little contact. I am also getting a lot of body roll. At NOLA we mounted a camera so we could look at the tire to wheel well opening and on hard cornering we were probably getting around 3" of body roll. The Hyperco spring rates are 225 & 300.

This car is tracked as much as driven on the street so tire wear and rut following was never an issue but handling is. The car is at Rich & Denis place and will get a new alignment. So my question is two fold. Do you think that the Track and Light Street Usage specs above have too much negative camber and do you think I should go with a stiffer set of coils? I'd really like to get the car more to the neutral side as it is just way too tight. I could post some video of the tire/wheelwell if anyone is interested while I was chasing Rocketman in Stormcat's car.
 

Ed Sims

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Apr 7, 2006
7,853
NorCal
OK, I will admit it, I am approaching the 2 year mark and have not rebuilt mine yet.

This is where Ed Sims chimes in and reminds us of his race team caliber service outlet (Shadowman) who rebuilds his right on time. :lol

When I had SRD rebuild my Penskes 3 shocks had almost no fluid left in them! That was 4 years of track & road use. SRD will be converting my Penskes from o-ring to seals at the next rebuild in 1 year. I recommend a 1-2 year minimum rebuild on the Penskes. Or get Ohlins or Motons since they use seals.

Ed

PS Shadowman R&R shocks, SRD rebuild!
 

2112

Blue/white 06'
Mark II Lifetime
I knew it! :biggrin

Great to hear there is a conversion for the penskes. Waiting to see what Scott comes up with.
 

sahlman

Ford GT Team Alumni
Jul 21, 2011
329
Verona, WI
So here is another question for Scott. I'm running Hoosier 225/40R18 fronts & 315/40R19 rears. I have the T&A Penske single adjustables and the car has been lowered 1" in the front and 3/4" in the rear. The alignment has been changed twice, both of which are to Alex's specs that came with the shocks. The first time we used:
Street and overall performance use:
Camber in the front –1.10 deg. + or – 0.10 deg.
Toe in front (positive is toe in) -0.05 deg. Total + or – 0.05 deg.
Camber in the Rear -2.20 deg. + or – 0.10 deg.
Toe in Rear (positive is toe in) 0.12 deg. Total + or 0.025 deg.

I have since changed to:
Track usage & Light Street use
Camber in the front –1.75 deg. + or – 0.10 deg.
Toe in front (positive is toe in) -0.05 deg. Total + or – 0.05 deg.
Camber in the Rear -2.80 deg. + or – 0.10 deg.
Toe in Rear (positive is toe in) 0.12 deg. Total + or 0.025 deg.

Here is the issue, the car is super tight mostly into the corner and through the middle and not quite as bad coming off. When we looked at the tires most all of the wear was on the inside two thirds of the tire. The outer third is making very little contact. I am also getting a lot of body roll. At NOLA we mounted a camera so we could look at the tire to wheel well opening and on hard cornering we were probably getting around 3" of body roll. The Hyperco spring rates are 225 & 300.

This car is tracked as much as driven on the street so tire wear and rut following was never an issue but handling is. The car is at Rich & Denis place and will get a new alignment. So my question is two fold. Do you think that the Track and Light Street Usage specs above have too much negative camber and do you think I should go with a stiffer set of coils? I'd really like to get the car more to the neutral side as it is just way too tight. I could post some video of the tire/wheelwell if anyone is interested while I was chasing Rocketman in Stormcat's car.

Hi Art,

Understood on adjustments and tight on entry and mid and better balance off. You note a lot of roll, yet not using the outside 1/3 of the tire.

Based on your comments and our experience in development I believe you are over cambered for the tire and car at your latest settings, but hard to judge. As far as things you can adjust, the tires themselves, including tire sizing/widths and camber will heavily dominate cornering grip and balance, but also heavily affects straight line. More camber hurts straight line braking and acceleration. Typically corner entry tight is not an issue for normal late apex driving and turn with trail braking. The heavy front camber and lack of overall tire usage is likely hurting both braking and cornering. The better balance on exit is likely because of too much camber taking away rear combined cornering and accelerating grip.

Unless it is a typo, I would go to the 245 wide front Hoosiers noted by Black ICE and GulfGT to reduce the front to rear tire split a hair.

Camber - stock cambers are -0.5 front and -1.6 deg rear. So 1.1 deg more at the back...you have the stock camber split.

Need to talk in detail about the current setup and what happens when on the track... If possible, use a tire pyrometer, (not infrared) to check temps for camber and pressure. Should be hottest on inside third, then 10-20 deg cooler mid third and another 10-20 deg cooler outer third.

Toe- I would stay stock and run 0 deg toe at the front. More rear toe- in helps with power down…I think our stock toe was 0.24 deg in total (I double checked, this is correct). I would look at rear toe of this level. If you get through the entry and middle better you will have a much better run at exit (typically straighter) and likely need/want more rear powerdown.

Your only real tool for stiffening roll are the springs until one of us goes after adjustable bars. I have to do a little analysis to give you a good recommendation for springs. But reducing roll, will make reducing camber more important.

Scott
 
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