Goodyear Eagles Unsafe on My GT imo
- Thread starter Fyr-FtrGT
- Start date
everetto
GT Owner
Not to be argumentative, but my C6 Z06 (and every C6 Z06) comes with runflats.
Actually, the C6 Z06 guys always "theorized" that b/c the Z has runflats and the GT did not, that gave the GT a slight advantage when comparing track performance. I am not saying either way, but the runflats definitely have stiffer sidwalls, and might contribute to some bump steer vs. a non runflat.
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Surpirse to me. You learn something new each day if you listen. Thanks for the info.
Dave
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snaproll
GT Owner
I'm thinking that the stock tires, in addition to being the only choice in size, are a just another street tire. Exactly what I want on the street for all the stated reasons. Unless you're a racer or experienced track junkie, it's what you want for the track to get started too. Get the feel for the car, learn it's quirks and limits without the extra bit of speed afforded by sticky tires. The thing is damn fast without slicks!
Indy GT
Yea, I got one...too
Goodyears
Snaproll, I agree...
In talking to the suspension engineers on the FGT program, Goodyear WANTED the tire contract on our car! The engineers investigated approximately 53 different Goodyear tire constructions (compound, tread pattern, number of plys, ply angle, etc, etc) in selecting the final production tire on our car. The tire is designed to give the best OVERALL performance for the typical street driving environment. In one annonous persons comment, we wanted the "kitchen sink" and they gave it to us, because Goodyear wanted to be THE tire on the FGT.
The Hoosier's may be fine on the track, but certainly are not street tires capable of providing us optimal tire characteristics in typical street conditions (ie rain or misty streeets). I personally have tracked the Goodyears and not had any problem with the "chunking" issue noted earlier by Dave. Maybe I was not pushing the car to excess. Tread temperature measurements were made on my Goodyears post track and all were pretty uniform (outer, middle, inner) and not excessive.
Hoosier's may be fine for the track, but I for one will keep the Goodyear's on for all other street driving.
Snaproll, I agree...
In talking to the suspension engineers on the FGT program, Goodyear WANTED the tire contract on our car! The engineers investigated approximately 53 different Goodyear tire constructions (compound, tread pattern, number of plys, ply angle, etc, etc) in selecting the final production tire on our car. The tire is designed to give the best OVERALL performance for the typical street driving environment. In one annonous persons comment, we wanted the "kitchen sink" and they gave it to us, because Goodyear wanted to be THE tire on the FGT.
The Hoosier's may be fine on the track, but certainly are not street tires capable of providing us optimal tire characteristics in typical street conditions (ie rain or misty streeets). I personally have tracked the Goodyears and not had any problem with the "chunking" issue noted earlier by Dave. Maybe I was not pushing the car to excess. Tread temperature measurements were made on my Goodyears post track and all were pretty uniform (outer, middle, inner) and not excessive.
Hoosier's may be fine for the track, but I for one will keep the Goodyear's on for all other street driving.
John B
GT Owner
- Jan 28, 2006
- 158
I have the stock Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercars on my car for the street and an extra set of lightweight BBS wheels with Hoosier R6's for track days. While the Hosiers are way superior on the track, I found them a little hard to live with on the street. On the 350 mile drive from my home in NJ to Watkins Glen, NY on Hoosiers the car would tend to hunt around a little side to side over tar strips and lines in the road parallel to the direction of travel. They also made an unusual noise when going over the parallel tar strips. It required an attentive hand on the wheel and was kind of tiring after a few hours.
I used to own a Ferrari 360 that I kept shod with Michelin Pilot Sport Cups. I thought those tires were excellent for my combination of street and track driving. I did have occasion to drive them in heavy rain and they weren't that bad. I would love it if Michelin made Pilot Sport Cup's to fit the rear of our cars. In the mean time, I think Goodyear F1's on the street and Hoosiers on the track is the best solution.
I used to own a Ferrari 360 that I kept shod with Michelin Pilot Sport Cups. I thought those tires were excellent for my combination of street and track driving. I did have occasion to drive them in heavy rain and they weren't that bad. I would love it if Michelin made Pilot Sport Cup's to fit the rear of our cars. In the mean time, I think Goodyear F1's on the street and Hoosiers on the track is the best solution.
californiacuda
GT Owner
- Oct 21, 2005
- 919
Not to change direction, but what about Pirelli pcorsa asimetrico's, soft compound, wider in back, have tread, seems like half way between the goodyears and the hoosiers. Good for track and street.
Kirby Vieira
GT Owner/B.o.D
Does anyone recall an earlier post about the pending introduction of some new sticky Goodyears (maybe non-DOT) in GT sizes?
cobrar1339
GT Owner
Shelby has the showroom stock Goodyear deal. He has was one of the first to offer the old Z06 size. You would think he might try to get a set of GSCS compound for the cars. This compound in the Z06 tire is not as sticky as the Hoosier in the early running but the Hoosier gets worse with more heat cycles quicker and a little greasy in a longer session. The GSCS ( BTW the CS stands for Carroll Shelby) has pretty even performance across the life of the tire. It is a dot radial and lasts a bit longer then the Hoosier. The downside with these on the street is they get sticky quick and throw lots of stones at your paint.....The N2 / Pilots / Toyo RA1's all need a bit more heat to get them real sticky. Thus they down stone your paint on the street.
What we really need is a Pilot Sport Cup / Nitto R2 /Toyo Proxes RA1( perfer the R2 or RA1 and have used both). Anyone got any influence with Nitto/ Toyo?. I would think the first mfg, do do a compound like this will own the GT market. I can drive 300 miles on these to an event and run with 2 sec's of the Hoosiers. Anyone with a pulley and a tune should see traction like they did stock or even better with this compund. I use these as daily driver tires on my 04 C5 Z06. They hook and go and are decent on slightly wet roads with light rain. This a a pretty common tire choice for Z06 enthusiast drivers.
CalCuda...
For the Prielli's what size do you run front and rear, I looked awhile back and they did not seam to be a perfect match. I did not want to drop the cash to experiment on sizes. I think they were a bit shorter and wider for the rear, but did not see a good choice up front back then.
What we really need is a Pilot Sport Cup / Nitto R2 /Toyo Proxes RA1( perfer the R2 or RA1 and have used both). Anyone got any influence with Nitto/ Toyo?. I would think the first mfg, do do a compound like this will own the GT market. I can drive 300 miles on these to an event and run with 2 sec's of the Hoosiers. Anyone with a pulley and a tune should see traction like they did stock or even better with this compund. I use these as daily driver tires on my 04 C5 Z06. They hook and go and are decent on slightly wet roads with light rain. This a a pretty common tire choice for Z06 enthusiast drivers.
CalCuda...
For the Prielli's what size do you run front and rear, I looked awhile back and they did not seam to be a perfect match. I did not want to drop the cash to experiment on sizes. I think they were a bit shorter and wider for the rear, but did not see a good choice up front back then.
californiacuda
GT Owner
- Oct 21, 2005
- 919
No good match from pirelli for front tires, I'm currently running some sport cups, for the rears I'm running 345 30 or 35's.
FLASH
GT Owner/Board of Directors
Tire Pressure
I have gotten mixed messages on tire pressures if we were to use the stock Goodyears on the track. Should we run the stock pressure or a few lbs. more or less?
Flash
I have gotten mixed messages on tire pressures if we were to use the stock Goodyears on the track. Should we run the stock pressure or a few lbs. more or less?
Flash
Jason Watt
Had both, sold both
Jason Watt
Had both, sold both
Empty Pockets
ex-GT Owner
What speeds will you be running?
Tire press tag on the driver's door says 40psi for speeds above 150...
Beyond that, 'beats the heck outta me, Sir. :shrug
cobrar1339
GT Owner
I have yet to bring the GT out to the track. I have a date in May. If you can find someone with a pyrometer at the track they would likely be more than happy to do tire temps on a GT.
I would normally start with +4 lbs front on a front engine car. For this car I too have no clue. I will start with 32. Note all of the following is my experience with the Goodyear SC tires....Hoosiers are a different story.
If you can get the tire temps, it goes like this. Start at 32psi run a warm up session 20 mins or so. You shouldn't hurt anything as you are just getting warmed up say 70-80% of your limit.
Here is the routine:
Starting at the outside edge 150 mid 130 inside 150 = Add air 1-2 psi
145 mid 165 insde 150 = reduce air 1-2
Most anyone with a pyrometer will be able to help you make the adjustment.
Now if you get something like this, it's an alignment issue you will need to science for the track:
Outside 210 mid 180 inside 160 = I would add air to compensate for the day, but the real problem is not enough negative camber. You won't be solving this real easy at the track without some special gear. Record this data for a discussion with your pro alignment specialist later.
If you have no way to check temps try this:
Look at the outside edge of the tire. You will see little triangle shaped arrows above the Goodyear logo and the two lines above that.
If you start to rub the arrow off while cornering...ADD air...try 2psi. Find some way to re-mark the arrows,( pen, marker, chalk. )
If it still rubs off , add another 1 psi until the wear does not go past the tip of the arrow. Ideally you want to wear right up to that tip of the arrow.
This is what the Goodyear guys showed me one time at a track day. Made sense and works well enough unless you are Michael Schumacher.
Each track will likely require a different psi. On the filp side, you may be able to let out a pound or two if you are getting no where close to the arrow.
You will notice a 2 psi difference in the way the steering feels and how it pushes or not. Nothing scarey, just a bit lighter or heavier feel.
I think the car is farily forgiving, so unless you really plan to push it through the corners or breech 150 for EXTENDED periods of time, you should have an enjoyable ride with no worries. I don't do back to back sessions, so I take the time to check the tires when I get out of the car. The car is fast but extened 150 is almost never seen at most tracks in the drviers school configs. Sebring, TMS, certain PIR configs would be exceptions.
Ps: 32 is the stock cold setting, you will be much higher after your first session. The +1-2 or (1-2) applies to current psi at the time you check it. Overnight it will be cold again in the morning, and a +2 will read maybe 33.5 - 34 when cold.
There was a post awhile back with some alignment specs for track days. You may want to search for "Track Alignment" I don't recall if it had listed the tire pressures as well.
I would normally start with +4 lbs front on a front engine car. For this car I too have no clue. I will start with 32. Note all of the following is my experience with the Goodyear SC tires....Hoosiers are a different story.
If you can get the tire temps, it goes like this. Start at 32psi run a warm up session 20 mins or so. You shouldn't hurt anything as you are just getting warmed up say 70-80% of your limit.
Here is the routine:
Starting at the outside edge 150 mid 130 inside 150 = Add air 1-2 psi
145 mid 165 insde 150 = reduce air 1-2
Most anyone with a pyrometer will be able to help you make the adjustment.
Now if you get something like this, it's an alignment issue you will need to science for the track:
Outside 210 mid 180 inside 160 = I would add air to compensate for the day, but the real problem is not enough negative camber. You won't be solving this real easy at the track without some special gear. Record this data for a discussion with your pro alignment specialist later.
If you have no way to check temps try this:
Look at the outside edge of the tire. You will see little triangle shaped arrows above the Goodyear logo and the two lines above that.
If you start to rub the arrow off while cornering...ADD air...try 2psi. Find some way to re-mark the arrows,( pen, marker, chalk. )
If it still rubs off , add another 1 psi until the wear does not go past the tip of the arrow. Ideally you want to wear right up to that tip of the arrow.
This is what the Goodyear guys showed me one time at a track day. Made sense and works well enough unless you are Michael Schumacher.
Each track will likely require a different psi. On the filp side, you may be able to let out a pound or two if you are getting no where close to the arrow.
You will notice a 2 psi difference in the way the steering feels and how it pushes or not. Nothing scarey, just a bit lighter or heavier feel.
I think the car is farily forgiving, so unless you really plan to push it through the corners or breech 150 for EXTENDED periods of time, you should have an enjoyable ride with no worries. I don't do back to back sessions, so I take the time to check the tires when I get out of the car. The car is fast but extened 150 is almost never seen at most tracks in the drviers school configs. Sebring, TMS, certain PIR configs would be exceptions.
Ps: 32 is the stock cold setting, you will be much higher after your first session. The +1-2 or (1-2) applies to current psi at the time you check it. Overnight it will be cold again in the morning, and a +2 will read maybe 33.5 - 34 when cold.
There was a post awhile back with some alignment specs for track days. You may want to search for "Track Alignment" I don't recall if it had listed the tire pressures as well.