Brake Bleeding


Kingman

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Aug 11, 2006
4,072
Surf City, USA
Anybody have any recommendations regarding a good solution for bleeding Ford GT brakes?

Anyone have any experience with the products from Motive?
http://store.motiveproducts.com/sha...reType=BtoC&Count1=436184108&Count2=353324532

I saw a segment about Motive's brake bleeders on SpeedTV that sounded pretty interesting.
 
i use a motive pressure bottle on the master cylinder (air only, no fluid).

with a vacuum bottle on the bleeder screw. after finishing bleeding, i can apply vacuum to limit fluid spill to the minimum.

pressure bleeding is the only way to go.
 
The only system I have been using, easy and quick.

http://www.trackhaus.com/0107-ford-power-bleeder-for-late-model-cars-and-trucks-with-lu-p-274.html


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Make sure you tell them it is for a FORD GT, to get the correct adapter. Though they sent me 2 nice vented drain bottles and lines for the calipers, I still use the make shift setup I threw together.


Pete S.
 
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Works great. I'm making a cap for the clutch cylindar too.
 
Works great. I'm making a cap for the clutch cylindar too.

Where can one buy an extra clutch reservoir cap to modify?
 
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I just got mine, but only with the adapter for 50's Fords. The adapters are sold individually or you can buy one of their master kits.

John
 
Where can one buy an extra clutch reservoir cap to modify?

I bought a resevoir at Ford. Comes with a cap. Drill out the top and sandwich with a couple washers, an o-ring and fitting.
 
Just used my Motive pressure bleeder on my 55 Mercury and it worked great. Does anyone know what adapter is needed for the GT?

John
 
Motive for sure. Use air. It works. Do not let any fluid remain on painted calipers or you will be sorry.
 
Does anyone know the part number for the Motive adapter that will work on the GT?

John
 
Does anyone know the part number for the Motive adapter that will work on the GT?

John

Sooooo.. did anyone figure which version fits? I'd like to give the Motive a shot. Thanks.
 
I use a container that can push and pull fluids via compressed air, and just attach it to the break bleeder open and draw, you just have to make sure the reservoir is always full doing it this way, and I don't even have to take the wheels off.
 
did mine with a mityvac today, quick with no mess
 
I use a container that can push and pull fluids via compressed air, and just attach it to the break bleeder open and draw, you just have to make sure the reservoir is always full doing it this way, and I don't even have to take the wheels off.


How do you get to the inboard bleed screws with the wheels on?
 
How do you get to the inboard bleed screws with the wheels on?


you can rotate the wheels to gain access to the bleed screw and just reach in with a small wrench, access is not a problem at all
 
Just be sure not to drip any on the wheels and if you do (or even if you don't) wash the sh1t out of them to get the brake fluid off. As others have noted, it's an excellent paint remover. For that reason alone, I'd be inclined to just jack it up on one side at a time and take off the wheels. I've done adjustments to my suspension and had to remove the wheels, so I used that opportunity to flush the brakes while I was at it.
 
thats the beauty of using a container that pulls fluids via compressed air I usually connect the hose and secure it to the bleed screw turn on the container and open the bleed screw until all the old fluid is pulled through then close the bleed screw and leave the container running as you take the hose off the bleeder everything that remains in the hose is continuously being pulled in container so the chance of a mess is virtually nil.
 
you can rotate the wheels to gain access to the bleed screw and just reach in with a small wrench, access is not a problem at all

Each caliper has two bleeder screws and there is a specific order in which you bleed them. Are you bleeding the outboard screw only? I still can't see how you can get to the inboard screws but maybe you are more limber than I. :biggrin

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