Advice,engine light came on.


GT35065

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
I've had the car for three days and drove it the first day ten miles, and then today about five miles and the engine light came on. I tried restarting and it stays on. I was close to home so after checking oil and temperature (both fine), I nursed it home. Everything seems fine. I searched the threads and saw one person had a bad connecting pin somewhere. Also, sounded like bad gas could cause this? Haven't put any gas in it yet. The light came on after fairly hard acceleration in first gear. Any ideas? Do I dare drive the car? Help! Its killing me having gotten it so recently.

Thanks,
Rick
 
Many 'lights & guage pblms have been traced to a low battery. I KNOW that sounds simplistic ... 'did to me too ... but, that's what the cause has been many times.

Put your trickle charger (NOT a speed charger!) on your GT for a day (or 2) and start the car again and see if the pblm's gone.

Many times a GT's battery runs down sitting at a dealer. (I'm assuming that's where you bought the car. In any event, try the trickle charge treatment regardless...barring a better suggestion from other Forum members.)
 
Thanks for the idea, I actually did put the trickle charger on it already. I hope its that simple.

Rick
 
Thanks for the idea, I actually did put the trickle charger on it already. I hope its that simple.

Rick


It pbly will be, Rick.
 
Dammit... I lost my reply somehow, so I'll try again.

With the low milage and low time on the new car, and the hard acceleration, it occurs to me that the car might still be in the break-in mode within the processor. It takes a while for this break-in mode to clear itself, can't remember for sure, but it's like 35 miles of contiuous drivng or something like that...:confused

As long as all gauge functions seem normal, my thoughts are to clear the MIL (sorry, don't know how right off hand), fill her up with some new premium umleaded gas, charge up that battery and try her again...:thumbsup

If it re-illuminates the MIL again soon, I suspect you'll have to visit the dealer:ack ... and no, that won't be any fun either.

Good Luck.

mardyn
 
Mardyn,
Car has 1100 miles on it, so initial breakin period should be over. I just read in the manual to let it cool down all the way then restart and drive. After three cycles of this, if the light doesn't go away, it will need to be checked. I think thats a good idea to fill it up with fresh fuel (its on a 1/4 tank) and give it another try. I'll leave the trickle on her over night as well. Any other thoughts let me know. Seems to be running fine, just don't want to break it within three days of owning it.

Rick
 
There is a gas tank issue (actually the nozzle throat) that will cause some problems. From what I've heard it usually becomes problematic at a 1/2 tank or less.

Either way, take it to the dealer and let them read the error code.
 
My engine light has come on only one time. I was at 1/4 tank of gas and it wouldn't go off until I filled it up. No problem since.

Try a full tank of fuel.
 
If you have a scanner you can read and clear the code. Go to a local Autozone and pay the deposit for the scanner. Return the scanner and get your money back. They can read the code for you when you write it down or go to OBDIIcodes.com and see for yourself. They will scan it for you in the lot, but I would just get the scanner and do it yourself.

Plug in scanner below dash with key off
Turn on the key
push Scan button
Codes appear an will tell you the general issue and the code
Write it down
Press Clear codes.....light will go off and only come back on if the issue comes back. I think the fuel fller code says something like "evap control yadayad"





Just for grins you may want to try this.

The fuel filler issue is simply a bad seal at the flapper. If the car has sat for a very long time you might want to pop the fuel door, pull the rail with all the lines in it toward the window, this exposes the flapper. Stick your finger on it and flap it back and forth a couple times. Then re-start and see if the light stays off. I heard one person found this to be the problem and resolved it that way. It kept happening about everytime he added fuel, but was a nice patch fix for awhile.

Also if you had a smog done the dyno only has two wheels turning so your ABS light will often come on. It will stay like that for a few drive cycles as well. May want to look again to be sure this is not the light that is on, it says ABS. I have to put on my reading glasses anymore to read this stuff.

Hope that helps.....If you can get a code, post it and someone here can help.

Good luck !
 
Are you sure it's not an open clamshell, trunklid or door?
 
Happened to me too. It took me 2 days to figure out the trunk lid had to be closed tight.
 
Are you sure it's not an open clamshell, trunklid or door?

This causes "door ajar" light to illuminate not the "engine" light.

Rob
 
0xygen sensor...

Check engine light came on about the same mileage.....bad 02 sensor...
 
Well, I'm brand new at this, but I'll give you the benefit of my "experience" since I've owned my FGT for a week now. After today's Mother's Day ride I noticed a "check engine" light. I put my code reader on it and, sure enough, I got code P1450: "unable to bleed tank vacuum". It's apparently my filler tube, and chances are good that's your problem too. I'll try futzing with the filler flap. Maybe even a little silicone grease on the flap....

Howard
 
Update: Tried charging it with trickle charger for 16 hours, then took it to Chevron and filled it up with premium. Light still does not go off. Did find out a new problem...when I fill it up, the guage only reads 3/4 full. That sucks, anyone else have this problem? The car seems to be running just fine, despite the engine check light.

My guess is the car probably has 02 sensor problem, as the engine light came on during reasonably hard accelleration. I've restarted the car about five times since the light came on, and it stays lit all the time. I've got to call my local dealer and see if they have a GT Tech guy. I know this dealer (Walker Ford) has his own GT, so hopefully he has a GT trained guy on board.

If anyone can give me some clue to the gas guage problem, please let me know. I'm still in love with this car. Just need to sort out these problems.

Rick
 
Update: Tried charging it with trickle charger for 16 hours, then took it to Chevron and filled it up with premium. Light still does not go off. Did find out a new problem...when I fill it up, the guage only reads 3/4 full. That sucks, anyone else have this problem? The car seems to be running just fine, despite the engine check light.

My guess is the car probably has 02 sensor problem, as the engine light came on during reasonably hard accelleration. I've restarted the car about five times since the light came on, and it stays lit all the time. I've got to call my local dealer and see if they have a GT Tech guy. I know this dealer (Walker Ford) has his own GT, so hopefully he has a GT trained guy on board.

If anyone can give me some clue to the gas guage problem, please let me know. I'm still in love with this car. Just need to sort out these problems.

Rick


The way it's been explained to me, Rick, is that the guages on this car are all "full voltage" guages. So, if the battery is not able to supply that, one or more guages will act up. That's why I think you MAY not have had the trickle chgr on long enough yet. It'll cost ya nuthin' to leave the puppy hooked up for another 24 or so just to see what happens.
But, there were some good ideas mentioned by the other guys that ought to be cked out too if this fails. They've all had more experience than I in these matters.
 
Rick,

I bought a 2005 model that had been sitting for about a year at the dealer. The battery was flat; they tried recharging, and then just replaced the battery under warranty before I took delivery of the car. I agree with Empty Pockets, have the battery checked, charged, or replaced.
 
My understanding of the Optima battery is that it will not respond to a trickle charger if it is significantly discharged. A standard charger with higher output current is necessary to resore full charge before a trickle charger will work to maintain full charge.

Howard
 
My understanding of the Optima battery is that it will not respond to a trickle charger if it is significantly discharged. A standard charger with higher output current is necessary to resore full charge before a trickle charger will work to maintain full charge.

Howard

WARNING!
The Optima battery is easy to cook, don't put a fast charge on it. Please review the many posts on this subject. PLEASE!
 
GT35065, Plug in scanner, stop quessing ,to much going on. if you get a 442 code its a slow evop problem. Old posts, it comes on once your tank goes below 3/4, the computer cycle tests for vacuum leaks. IF THAT CODE DOES COME UP , YOU NEED 9 OUT OF 10 TIMES TO REPLACE THE FUEL PIPE. THE FLAP AND SEAL HAD AN UPGRADE. IF ITS THAT DO IT IMMEDIATLEY AS THE CAR CAN STALL AND CUT OUT WHILE DRIVING, BEEN THERE DONE THAT.:biggrin BE CAREFUL, PLEASE READ OLD POSTS , YOU CANT DO IT THE DEALER HAS TO, P.S. COVER YOUR EYES ITS NOT PRETTY. GOOD LUCK GTJOEY .P.S. HAND HELDS ARE 90 DOLLARS PLUG RIGHT UNDER THE STEERING COLUMN, REAL EASY. :thumbsup