2005 FGT starts but will not move


GTinTN

GTinTN

GT Owner
Jan 17, 2019
224
Brentwood, TN
I had not started my GT in about a month so I took off the cover, removed the trickle charger and visually checked the tires. I then got in and started the car. It always amazes me how the car immediately starts and gives off such a wonderful growl!
After letting it warm a short while, I put it in reverse, released the e-brake and as I engaged the clutch, I could hear the engine bog down and the car did not move. I got out and checked to see if anything was blocking the tires, and there was not. I got back in and tried again with the same result. I then shifted to 1st and again, the car would not budge. I tried engaging and releasing the e-brake to ensure it was not engaged. The dash light verified it was not. I shut down the engine and tried all above steps again with same result. I then shut off the car, put it in neutral with the e-brake off and attempted to push-pull the car by hand. Again, it would not budge.
Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks!
 
GTinTN said:
I had not started my GT in about a month so I took off the cover, removed the trickle charger and visually checked the tires. I then got in and started the car. It always amazes me how the car immediately starts and gives off such a wonderful growl!
After letting it warm a short while, I put it in reverse, released the e-brake and as I engaged the clutch, I could hear the engine bog down and the car did not move. I got out and checked to see if anything was blocking the tires, and there was not. I got back in and tried again with the same result. I then shifted to 1st and again, the car would not budge. I tried engaging and releasing the e-brake to ensure it was not engaged. The dash light verified it was not. I shut down the engine and tried all above steps again with same result. I then shut off the car, put it in neutral with the e-brake off and attempted to push-pull the car by hand. Again, it would not budge.
Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks!
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Rotors have to be stuck to brake pads or a brake caliper is locked up. Jack each corner up one by one and check for which wheel is stuck.
 
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Axle bolts?
 
twobjshelbys said:
Axle bolts?
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states car wont move when shut off in neutral
 
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Did you wash the car or was it raining before putting the car away? if so maybe brake pads rusted to rotors.

Pilots here will know that you always drag the brakes before parking a plane if it is wet.
 
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Wonder if taking the wheels off like B.M.F said, but then get a bit of hard wood rod and whack on the pads one by one to unweld them from rotors?
Pistons shouldn't be locked out as they would've relaxed when you last parked it.

My car makes a crunch when backing out after its been washed and sat for a few days..
I now drive the car in the street for 1min in 1st with me on the brake and throttle to evap the residual water on the rotors.
Stuart
 
Wet brakes can stick hard.
 
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+ however many. Pads are stuck to the rotor. Be slightly more aggressive with your "launch" to break it free (I stress slightly). Happens often if you wash it and park it.
 
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The GT book mentioned the E-brake sticking is a common problem, if set when wet, and left for a few weeks.
 
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Thanks to all for the quick responses.
The last time I had it out to a car show (about a month ago), it did drizzle and the road was wet. I believe you are correct regarding the brakes sticking. I was not thinking or I would have gotten an air gun out and blown out the water. Will try suggestion of more aggressive launch or will see if I can use a pry bar against the tires to rock the car while in neutral.
 
I personally would avoid a pry bar..... The car has the force to break things loose.
 
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A little "drop the clutch" effort in reverse (only reverse) would be the quickest way to break them/it free
I would like to see the vid of the "break loose" clutch drop (be prepared for loud breaking free noise if it works)..... please do a vid.
Would be a first on the forum.

Stu
 
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All brakes on a given car have more power to haul a car down ....even with the foot to the floor at the same time.
Hope you win this engine/clutch/brake battle.
Would be nice to see the rears break free but fronts stay locked (first ever reverse burnout)
 
And this is why I "park" the car in neutral with the e-brake, not engaged!!!! That and if the brakes are hot, I don't think it wise to engage the e-brake.
 
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I agree with RPM.
Have used this method for years on all my cars. and boat(only kidding).
Best,
Mark
 
Anybody recommend a light tap on the caliper/disk with a rubber mallet? I'm guessing its surface rust on the disk(s).
 
Car's junk now, I'll give you $100k and you can move on
 
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I know this has been discussed before, for this and other reasons unless my GT is really dirty, I “ dry wash” all my cars ( except daily drivers in the NE!) It’s usually only dust I am dealing with. Spraying water becomes and issue with the brakes also headlights ( moisture fogging them up)! My old collectible Alfas and water don’t mix! I know there are other owners who do the same!
 
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RPM217 said:
And this is why I "park" the car in neutral with the e-brake, not engaged!!!! That and if the brakes are hot, I don't think it wise to engage the e-brake.
Click to expand...
Your car has never rolled away? Maybe you carry chocks?
I always park in 1st with the e-brake off, unless on steep terrain.
 
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On the street, in 1st, no E-brake, unless on a hill. On my lift, in neutral, with wheel blocks , no E-brake
 
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