Seeking gt40 replica
- Thread starter roketman
- Start date
2112
Blue/white 06'
Luke warmwater just had one built after doing exhaustive research.
http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?23313-GT40-Eye-Candy
http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php?23313-GT40-Eye-Candy
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
Mike had his now totally finished car at the Cars and Coffee Saturday. It rattled the windows. Even had a Ferrari F40 owner as a fan. Noone even looked at the Ford GT with the GT40 there.
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twobjshelbys
GT Owner
Video of Luke Warmwater's GT40
[video=youtube;NTgj2NZu6MU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTgj2NZu6MU&feature=player_embedded[/video]
[video=youtube;NTgj2NZu6MU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTgj2NZu6MU&feature=player_embedded[/video]
IMO the Superformance GT40 is the closest you can come to owning a 100% original GT40 if that matters any. Ninety % of its parts will interchange with a 60s car (but, it has bigger brakes and other upgrades). OTOH, probably one of the lightest replicas would be the RCR...if tracking the car is/will be THEE 'biggie' for you.
I know Steve is having a GT40 'track car' built as we 'speak', so, you might PM/email him for particulars.
:cheers
Sinovac
GT Owner
Imho
Ron -
To include the vintage racing aspect, my suggestion would be to go to Lee Holman. He has the original dies and molds, and will remake a GT40 - although it may be a bit pricier than a Superformance, CAV, or ERA replica.
I would order it from him in a Mark II configuration for a small block Ford, less engine, but with a Kar Kraft transaxle, and the original design "Bundle of Snakes" header/exhaust system, along with an additional collector/exhaust section which includes small mufflers for road travel; include the oil and transaxle coolers, and period correct braking system, but add a current fire suppression system to the package. Consider leaving a location for an oil tank, in case you want to go with a dry sump.
I think the Mark II configuration will give better brake and engine cooling, as it was designed to handle either the small or big block (427) engine.
I would order it in right-hand drive, and without any extras such as air conditioning, radio or other foo-foos.
I would then procure either a Ford small block 289 or 302 block, and have it built up with GT40 racing heads (available from Ford Racing), quadruple Weber downdraft manifold and carburetors, forged pistons and the appropriate rods, crank, and ignition system. Build it in either a dry (preferred) or wet sump configuration. You might also consider the big block version, which will fit into the Mark II configuration, although either could be changed out easily later. The big blocks were wet sump engines with large pans and a single or double Holley carburetor and intake manifold. Use an engine builder you trust who is near you.
I don't think Lee can get the Halibrand knockoffs, but I believe there is a BRM equivalent wheel in the period correct size. Get either Goodyear Eagle, Firestone, or Avon tires in the correct vintage size.
Just my take -
Ralphie
Ron -
To include the vintage racing aspect, my suggestion would be to go to Lee Holman. He has the original dies and molds, and will remake a GT40 - although it may be a bit pricier than a Superformance, CAV, or ERA replica.
I would order it from him in a Mark II configuration for a small block Ford, less engine, but with a Kar Kraft transaxle, and the original design "Bundle of Snakes" header/exhaust system, along with an additional collector/exhaust section which includes small mufflers for road travel; include the oil and transaxle coolers, and period correct braking system, but add a current fire suppression system to the package. Consider leaving a location for an oil tank, in case you want to go with a dry sump.
I think the Mark II configuration will give better brake and engine cooling, as it was designed to handle either the small or big block (427) engine.
I would order it in right-hand drive, and without any extras such as air conditioning, radio or other foo-foos.
I would then procure either a Ford small block 289 or 302 block, and have it built up with GT40 racing heads (available from Ford Racing), quadruple Weber downdraft manifold and carburetors, forged pistons and the appropriate rods, crank, and ignition system. Build it in either a dry (preferred) or wet sump configuration. You might also consider the big block version, which will fit into the Mark II configuration, although either could be changed out easily later. The big blocks were wet sump engines with large pans and a single or double Holley carburetor and intake manifold. Use an engine builder you trust who is near you.
I don't think Lee can get the Halibrand knockoffs, but I believe there is a BRM equivalent wheel in the period correct size. Get either Goodyear Eagle, Firestone, or Avon tires in the correct vintage size.
Just my take -
Ralphie
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By the way - Bob Bonderant has a very period correct ERA Mark I replica -
View attachment 26091
View attachment 26092
View attachment 26093
In fact, it has one of the spare Le Mans engines.
View attachment 26091
View attachment 26092
View attachment 26093
In fact, it has one of the spare Le Mans engines.
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Superfly
HERITAGE GT OWNER
Ralphie, Holman was looking for $800,000 per car plus options for a RACE car. More if you wanted a street car. Mind you, that was back in '06. Maybe the prices have come down now, or maybe your take on "a bit pricier" is in a different snack bracket than mine. :wink But I agree, if money's no object, if you wanted a vintage racer, or if you want the most 'authentic' version you can get, that would be the way to go. :willy
Fast Freddy
GPS'D 225 MPH
GT38
GT Owner
I've owned a very early SPF GT40 MkII for 5-1/2 years. The original owner had it completed by Olthoff with a small block 427W & RBT transaxle.
The SPF is a well built car - the same construction as the original. Buy it with the steering wheel on the side you want because they can't be converted. The cockpit center tunnel structure is offset to give the driver more lateral room than the passenger.
If I was ordering, I'd get RHD with shift rods (not cables). The bubble is not an add-on, it's molded into the door. I don't think a radio is an SPF option. You wouldn't be able to hear it anyway. The early cars had custom proprietary shocks that were non-adjustable and non-rebuildable. If you buy a pre-owned car that has them, they'll have to go.
If your going to race it, you should take a look at the GT40R http://www.pathfindermotorsports.com/ftp.pathfindermotorsports.com/GT40.html
If you're going to road it, think about whether or not you want to delete the A/C. Forced air ventilation in traffic can be inadequate at higher temperatures, and of course the windows don't roll down.
The SPF is a well built car - the same construction as the original. Buy it with the steering wheel on the side you want because they can't be converted. The cockpit center tunnel structure is offset to give the driver more lateral room than the passenger.
If I was ordering, I'd get RHD with shift rods (not cables). The bubble is not an add-on, it's molded into the door. I don't think a radio is an SPF option. You wouldn't be able to hear it anyway. The early cars had custom proprietary shocks that were non-adjustable and non-rebuildable. If you buy a pre-owned car that has them, they'll have to go.
If your going to race it, you should take a look at the GT40R http://www.pathfindermotorsports.com/ftp.pathfindermotorsports.com/GT40.html
If you're going to road it, think about whether or not you want to delete the A/C. Forced air ventilation in traffic can be inadequate at higher temperatures, and of course the windows don't roll down.
GT38
GT Owner
As a practical road car, the GT is on a different planet than the GT40. There are reasons why Ford didn't sell many GT40's for street use, and there are reasons why Camilo and Ford made the GT bigger and put roll-down windows in it, etc. It's not that the GT40 can't be driven on the street, it's just that you have to accept its limitations. It's not a bad thing at all, but it is what it is. On the positive side, the GT40 keeps you in the driving loop and it's a very satisfying experience even on the road. It can be an even bigger crowd draw than the GT when you're stopped somewhere - and we all know what a magnet the GT is. People seem to really like how "raw" it is compared to modern cars, and get a new appreciation for what racing was like in the 60's. And be prepared for LEO's to make even more U-turns than they do for the GT!
If your primary use is on the track, I'd for sure build it for that and just live without the A/C, etc. You can always take the windows off - it just takes a screwdriver.
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A Mark II with a small block? Egad! I know nothing about the Kar Kraft TA other than they were $30k a pop in 2004. The RBT seems to be the transaxle of choice these days along with a 9.5" deck Windsor block. Mine and most SPFs out there are using the Roush 427.
Ron, call Dennis Olthoff who races these cars regularly. He can provide you the type of information you need.
They do make some noise...
[video]www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYDQRHreLbM[/video]
I was responding with the aim of "Vintage Racing" which imposes certain requirements - one doesn't build with modern components and expect to go vintage racing. Mark II's were built with both small blocks and big blocks.
Curious which Mk II(s) ran with a small block?
Olthoff running at the Sebring Historics with a Windsor block 427.
[video=youtube;jwQ171NA13Y]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwQ171NA13Y[/video]
Olthoff running at the Sebring Historics with a Windsor block 427.
[video=youtube;jwQ171NA13Y]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwQ171NA13Y[/video]