Project TTSGT Dyno shakedown began tonight !!


I also read the methanol is corrosive to metals in particular to aluminum. I am concerned that the fins of the intercooler may be damaged over time. The other parts are thicker and have more time to corrode before it would be significant. Like you said, I am concerned about the increase level of maintenance.
 
BlackICE said:
I also read the methanol is corrosive to metals in particular to aluminum. I am concerned that the fins of the intercooler may be damaged over time. The other parts are thicker and have more time to corrode before it would be significant.
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That is why we use windsheild washer fluid, it is practically non corrosive minimal percent of meth. The yellow stuff helps out a bunch.
It doesn't eat up pumps in stock cars does it?

Other wise u would have to tap the intercooler and put the nozzles in the bottom.
 
I think the yellow stuff is Heet, and after research and examination I think injection after the intercooler is best, but not the easiest way to go. I know of at least one set up like this, homemade, not a kit.
 
paul b said:
I think the yellow stuff is Heet, and after research and examination I think injection after the intercooler is best, but not the easiest way to go. I know of at least one set up like this, homemade, not a kit.
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Yes; an injection system under the inter-cooler will produce the greatest value

The idea of a pre-intercooler spray will help in fact i install them this way from time to time however in the case of these gals either nozzles under the intercooler or direct port would be best and yet this will also become the cause for the greatest service concern

If an open plenum design is plumbed under the intercooler the risk is low however the maintenance over time remains with items such as clogged nozzles etc. Now if a direct port system is installed the ability to fine tune increases however so does the maintenance because access to the nozzles will require the removing of the intake manifold.

I come back to my basic premise; I do not like a system such as water injection being a baseline requirement of driving the gal on the street however if used as a secondary system when one swaps tunes to go play hard then it is a bit more acceptable IMO.

Now as for fluid; yes blue windshield washer fluid is a great all around product to use and does not cause a significant corrosion concern.

Takes care

Shadowman
 
Most of the blue fluid I see in the stores don't have any methanol in them and have a freeze warning. That is probably because I live where it almost never freezes.

Shadowman would keeping the injection system clean, using distilled water and very clean methanol make the injectors go a long time before plugging up, or is that still something that would have to be maintain on a more than annual basis?
 
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BlackICE said:
Most of the blue fluid I see in the stores don't have any methanol in them and have a freeze warning. That is probably because I live where it almost never freezes.

Shadowman would keeping the injection system clean, using distilled water and very clean methanol make the injectors go a long time before plugging up, or is that still something that would have to be maintain on a more than annual basis?
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YES........ HUGE.. this and a very good easy to clean and or replace pre-filter

BTW the blue stuff is mostly soapy water.... LOL as such it cleans as it sprays.

The benefit between straight water and methanol is a subjective issue with opinions all over the board.

Takes care

Shadowman
 
Dan Schoneck said:
I can tell u that detonation(Pump Gas) could of caused that crank to break along with the problem of the 22lb balencer, Not 28lbs. I talk to dewayne James from hellion and he agrees along with me that u guys are crazy to be toying with pump gas and these types of power levels. U guys can afford a 160,000 car but want to use 3 dollar pump gas to make racecar horsepower levels.:frown There is too much cyclinder pressure in these small cube motors and that is the problem. Along with the 3hp+ per cubic inch these engines are reaching.
Mod motors have been around longer than the ford gt and there are many Knowledgeable people out there that know what a mod motor can handle on pump and race gas and the GT isn't some special unit that is above and beyond any other ford mod motor. It has a 800 dollar crank, 1000.00-1200.00 set of rods and a 800 dollar set of pistons. (3000.00 block also and that is the main differance)
Innovators West has a 10lb SFI balancer that is 10% overdriven. I posted something about his here before sema but DBK thought i was a outside vender and removed it. I simply placed it to let u guys know that are making huge power how that the stock balencer is a problem. Also it will come apart after 7200rpm and innovators is good to 12,500 rpm.

I have allready got one of these balencers on my 07 GT500 With a procharger f1r as they share the same balancer except 100 offset inbetween the 10rib and the 6 rib. Innovators makes them both and they are a very nice piece. Contact Brad Wadle out there at Iw

Anyways good luck too all

BTw how much timing, how much boost, any methonal inj on joes car? What are inlet temps @200?
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This was a great post and yes you are correct that

1. Detonation could have been the underlying cause of the snout failure of the crank; my comment was to make folks aware that it was sourced, they did have problems, and without words being shared likely went to a moderate bidder rather than an extreme fabricator of cranks.
2. Yes, these gals are subject to the typical Mod issues of years gone past even though there are some nice pieces within
3. I agree that continuing to push the gals will result in MANY a replaced heart.

I was told early on that the rotating assembly within these gals was rated in the 900 HP range with the block having torsional stability to around 1400 HP.

Now I share that this is what I was told and if true further supports your comments and understanding as shared by your contacts as well.

Yes these gals more expensive than other play toys as such I would expect a greater wilingness to "pay to play" or for folks to accept the limits as previously defined and engineered for.

Thank you again for the wonderful comments

BTW I have used wet clutch mechanism and or viscous fluid dampeners for years with GREAT success saving no doubt a large number of cranks/bottom-ends.

Takes care

Shadowman
 
QKSTNG514 said:
Joe's car was not "blown up" it suffered a broken crank right behind the 28lbs balancer and the bearings still looked perfect after "all that abuse".

This problem has plagued the GT500 crowd that are now approaching 900RWHP from them and now the Dampner manufacturers have released replacements that should help avoid this from happening.

Exactly where do we draw the line? Isnt the line redrawn by each indivudual concerning "Street Worthy"?

I will also tell you that I drove Joe's GT to Daytona and back all weekend last year and made over 1140RWHP (Watch the Turkey rod Run DVD) and still got 23.4 MPG there and back. I myself consider that one hell of a street car statement.

TonY G
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I can back that statement up, it was there on my mobile dyno making 1140. Tony was not worried about driving it home to jax that night.

The GT500 motor shares some parts with the FGT motor. The 07 500s have a massive balancer, for 08 Ford has one that weighs nearly half as much. They require you upgrade to the 08 balancer if a dealer is installing the FRPP SC upgrade under warranty on your 07. I also have one of the even lighter aftermarket 10% OD balancers sitting here.
 
Dan, I've seen you make many good posts on Mod Fords.

We have been making 600RWHP on pump gas, on 4.6 03-04 cobras for a long time now. The 5.4 motor is very similar, but will inherently take more timing. It is also a very low CR motor as you know. I believe 15-20lbs of boost on pump gas can be done safely with proper tuning, but there is a point where better fuel is needed if the boost goes higher.
 
To answer some questions about W/M, I've seen it work well in some cases, but in most cases not very well. It's not a magic power adder like the snow perf. ads claim.
 
Holy $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I have been thinking about doing this since I bought my GT500 in May, some said it would work, some said it would not, either way I thought there would be some issues to overcome. It does not really seem that way.

No one has pointed out the change in spool point, its been reduced by nearly 1000RPM. The engine is now acting like a big cube motor with the twin screw back on, and spooling the turbos much faster.

What A/R are the turbos now? Stepping up a size may help top end power, and reduce that TQ spike on the low end. Normally we like TQ, but it does not help his traction situation.

A roots blower has some inherent differences compared to a twin screw, and I actually wonder how they would play out in this type of situation, there could be some benefits when it comes to driveability and overall system efficiency.

It would not be easy to build and install a reliable SC clutch setup to turn off the blower. I would actually rather have it still spinning for several reasons.

Also, some have pointed out that boost compounds. In this case it does not since, one is feeding the other. Airflow is increase, but not boost per say.
 
Justin@VMP said:
I believe 15-20lbs of boost on pump gas can be done safely with proper tuning, but there is a point where better fuel is needed if the boost goes higher.
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This is just basic common sense. And that pressure range we have proven works quite well when calibrated correctly.
 
We do have a really endless combination to try out different sized turbos, back housings, blowers, ETC. This was trial #1 with a lot more for us to work with and collect data on.
 
The airflow to the engine goes through through the blower, requiring it to be rotated. If the sc's rpm could be slowed to say 1000, then the turbo'd pressurized air could make it to the engine, and the sc wouldn't be using much engine power to turn it. Just a thought.
 
Whats uo Justin?? LOL

TonY G
 
Question here fellas, how much boost are the turbo's making on the 955rwhp run. Would it be possible to run an eboost with external gates and dump as much boost as possible for daily duties then at the press of a button dial in some more and make 1ooorwhp.
 
Dan Schoneck said:
The kenne bell and the turbos will break parts. U are going to probally see 60lbs of boost. Either you won't be able to turn the k.b up or you won't be able to turn the turbo's up. I Know the guys at hellionand have talked to them about this and the have had simular problems when they tried to turn the factory blower up on the 03-04 cobra the boost went through the moon. Don't forget here you are compounding power adders. So say your turbos make 19 lbs and the factory blower makes 9 which is 28. Now you can times that by about 1.2 and that is how much boost the motor is seeing. That is 33lbs boys. Regardless of what u do anything over 45-50lbs of boost
and u are going to lift the heads. If you try this on pump gas It will make the problem worse because of detonation. 1000 rwhp is the limit on these cars with these small Cubic inches and that is pushing it.
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Does this mean that Torries engine is seeing the standard SC boost plus whatever the TT's are making so now the engine is stressed 100% more than with just TT's, or do the two adders simply support each other and the max boost is still not higher than with one power adder??.
I'm confused :confused
 
We were at just under 18psi total. I can toggle boost as low as 14psi right now and go up even higher if needed. We have everything turned way way down right now.
 
XRQTOR said:
Question here fellas, how much boost are the turbo's making on the 955rwhp run. Would it be possible to run an eboost with external gates and dump as much boost as possible for daily duties then at the press of a button dial in some more and make 1ooorwhp.
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By the dyno graph Torrie is running almost 18psi of boost. Torrie's car as a Greddy Pro-fec B boost controller in the car, so he can adjust the boost as low as the blower or as high as he wants depending on what octane fuel he's running.:thumbsup
 
That would be 100% correct.
 
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