Will not start...
- Thread starter Woboose
- Start date
Spirit
Heritage GT Owner
fjpikul
GT Owner
SteveA
GT Owner/B.O.D
Sounds like a loose ground to me as well. This my sound dumb but does your fuel gauge work? On my car the first sign of a bad battery is a dead fuel gauge.
Empty Pockets
ex-GT Owner
...And, if all the above duzzunt do squat for yuh - then yuh pbly gotta "dead" section in the battery (regardless of "lights") so there aren't enough cranking amps left over for the starter to even say "hello".
Bill Oxley
GT Owner
If you have normal lights, and the gauges work with key on, and no noise of any kind when you hit the start button, I'm not thinking battery, but guessing starter solenoid, or starter.
Although, I'd think that would be odd for a car this new.
Best of luck, let us know.
Although, I'd think that would be odd for a car this new.
Best of luck, let us know.
AMB
GT Owner
Empty Pockets
ex-GT Owner
cobrar1339
GT Owner
Do you hear the fuel pump start up?. Does it sound normal or sound like it is in slow mo. If in slo mo, then that would indicate the AMPs issue, as it draws big amps compared to lights and gauges.
It is pretty normal to see a battery with a surface charge of good volts, then on a draw down test it goes from say 12.7v to 3v and reovers to only 5v, not enough to even bump the starter.
If you have a battery charger with jump start capability you could try that. If she cranks, then it's the dead cell issue. You will need to replace the battery. If you still get nothing I would say the battery is not the problem.
Your local Autozone can test the battery but, I would take it out of the car and bring it in. They also sell an Optima that should fit, but it does not have the extra lip of the OEM battery on the base. When looking for my car I saw 2 used GTs that had regular Optimas mounted in them.
It is pretty normal to see a battery with a surface charge of good volts, then on a draw down test it goes from say 12.7v to 3v and reovers to only 5v, not enough to even bump the starter.
If you have a battery charger with jump start capability you could try that. If she cranks, then it's the dead cell issue. You will need to replace the battery. If you still get nothing I would say the battery is not the problem.
Your local Autozone can test the battery but, I would take it out of the car and bring it in. They also sell an Optima that should fit, but it does not have the extra lip of the OEM battery on the base. When looking for my car I saw 2 used GTs that had regular Optimas mounted in them.
dbtgt
One lucky SOB to own a GT
My experience with the Optima was it was taller than the "Ford GT" battery and made it difficult to install the "luggage compartment" properly.:willy
Hey Bruce,
You say no crank but strong headlights. Strong headlights would say that for sure you have good voltage at the battery and a reasonable chance for amperage.
1. Inspect cables at battery for tight connections
2. Clutch interlock switch is a good idea too. My clutch pedal has to be smashed before it will allow cranking. Easy to see it becoming a problem.
3. I noticed this weekend that we have same exhaust - great minds think alike! Well, the headers run REAL close to the starter and starter wires. With the temps in this w/e's run, you could have melted something. To inspect, you probably would have to drop the rear pan. Disconnect the battery if you suspect anything is amiss at the starter. You don't want to make a bad situation worse!
Let us know what you find!
You say no crank but strong headlights. Strong headlights would say that for sure you have good voltage at the battery and a reasonable chance for amperage.
1. Inspect cables at battery for tight connections
2. Clutch interlock switch is a good idea too. My clutch pedal has to be smashed before it will allow cranking. Easy to see it becoming a problem.
3. I noticed this weekend that we have same exhaust - great minds think alike! Well, the headers run REAL close to the starter and starter wires. With the temps in this w/e's run, you could have melted something. To inspect, you probably would have to drop the rear pan. Disconnect the battery if you suspect anything is amiss at the starter. You don't want to make a bad situation worse!
Let us know what you find!
you were correct...
This was your quote and you were spot on. Make sure if you're not running stock pipes you have adequate heat shields!
Thanks
3. I noticed this weekend that we have same exhaust - great minds think alike! Well, the headers run REAL close to the starter and starter wires. With the temps in this w/e's run, you could have melted something. To inspect, you probably would have to drop the rear pan. Disconnect the battery if you suspect anything is amiss at the starter. You don't want to make a bad situation worse!
This was your quote and you were spot on. Make sure if you're not running stock pipes you have adequate heat shields!
Thanks
3. I noticed this weekend that we have same exhaust - great minds think alike! Well, the headers run REAL close to the starter and starter wires. With the temps in this w/e's run, you could have melted something. To inspect, you probably would have to drop the rear pan. Disconnect the battery if you suspect anything is amiss at the starter. You don't want to make a bad situation worse!
cobrar1339
GT Owner
jkgt - They have both the ford racing long tube headers. If you do not have long tubes you will be fine. If you do, it sounds like some heat shield to protect the wiring in this area is a must.
Pegasusracing.com , Jegs, Summit all sell heat sheilds from sleeves to mats that you customeize yourself.
Pegasusracing.com , Jegs, Summit all sell heat sheilds from sleeves to mats that you customeize yourself.
FLASH
GT Owner/Board of Directors
GT Charlie
Member
I think we have the Ford Racing Rear Exit Headers. The difference is that the long tube headers bolt up to the stock muffler. Both header types eliminate the cat because there is no room for them with the headers. The rear exit headers use a Borla "collector muffler".... thugh it doesn't muffle much.