Road Racing Setups
- Thread starter shelbyguy
- Start date
STORMCAT
GT
Hoosier is making some DOT track tires , Do a search for further info. I think the Tire Rack may carry them.
funat50
GT Owner
Race setup
A racing buddy of mine's brother in law works at Ford SVT engineering and sent me the info below:
1) Transaxle cooler - mandatory. Available from Ford Racing Catalog. Will bolt right in, including all fittings.
Available here: http://www.fordracingparts.com/fordgt/fordgt.asp
2) Tire Pressures: 30F/28R stock tires, 32F/29R Hoosiers.
3) Camber: - 1.0 front, -1.5 deg rear. (Service shims are available to adjust).
4) Brake cooling ducts (no kit available as far as I know).
5) If car is a 2005, replace the front grille with 2006 front grille (better airflow/cooling).
6) Remove fan grilles from ducts in top of hood to improve cooling. (Can be re-installed when not at track to prevent leaves, etc. from getting in there…)
7) For serious racing or if better cooling is still needed, remove 1/2 of the intercooler which is located directly in front of the radiator. Should not be required except for extreme conditions.
A racing buddy of mine's brother in law works at Ford SVT engineering and sent me the info below:
1) Transaxle cooler - mandatory. Available from Ford Racing Catalog. Will bolt right in, including all fittings.
Available here: http://www.fordracingparts.com/fordgt/fordgt.asp
2) Tire Pressures: 30F/28R stock tires, 32F/29R Hoosiers.
3) Camber: - 1.0 front, -1.5 deg rear. (Service shims are available to adjust).
4) Brake cooling ducts (no kit available as far as I know).
5) If car is a 2005, replace the front grille with 2006 front grille (better airflow/cooling).
6) Remove fan grilles from ducts in top of hood to improve cooling. (Can be re-installed when not at track to prevent leaves, etc. from getting in there…)
7) For serious racing or if better cooling is still needed, remove 1/2 of the intercooler which is located directly in front of the radiator. Should not be required except for extreme conditions.
Good recap.
However I used significantly higher pressures on my Hoosiers (around 38 psi hot slightly higher in the rear). Do not exceed 40 psi hot!
For stock tires I found starting with cold pressures of 28 psi front and 29-30 psi rear to work best. Again add one or two psi to the rear. Adjust (let air out if needed) as you push harder on the track and get more heat in them.
Also using alignment changes, grill changes, Ford Trans axle cooler, brake cooling ducts and intercooler radiator modifications (the last two are not easily made “back yard mechanic” modifications).
However, don’t forget a good 6 point harness. It’s near to impossible to drive a car this fast while slipping & sliding around the seat.
However I used significantly higher pressures on my Hoosiers (around 38 psi hot slightly higher in the rear). Do not exceed 40 psi hot!
For stock tires I found starting with cold pressures of 28 psi front and 29-30 psi rear to work best. Again add one or two psi to the rear. Adjust (let air out if needed) as you push harder on the track and get more heat in them.
Also using alignment changes, grill changes, Ford Trans axle cooler, brake cooling ducts and intercooler radiator modifications (the last two are not easily made “back yard mechanic” modifications).
However, don’t forget a good 6 point harness. It’s near to impossible to drive a car this fast while slipping & sliding around the seat.
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Be very careful of over inflating the stock tires. They will show excessive wear on the center treads very quickly. This is exaggerated on the track.
Also the stock tires are prone to chunking, meaning they throw off sizeable amount of tread from the center sections. Even if they are not thrown off check to see if the tread is loose and if pieces of tread can be lifted off with your finger.
Yes I have been there with both instances.
I agree with Trackday that a six point harness is a necessity for track days. Its foolish to go out on the track with the stock seat belts as you will be constantly sliding around in the seat.
Dave
Also the stock tires are prone to chunking, meaning they throw off sizeable amount of tread from the center sections. Even if they are not thrown off check to see if the tread is loose and if pieces of tread can be lifted off with your finger.
Yes I have been there with both instances.
I agree with Trackday that a six point harness is a necessity for track days. Its foolish to go out on the track with the stock seat belts as you will be constantly sliding around in the seat.
Dave
fjpikul
GT Owner
FB GT40
GT Owner/B.o.D
Track use
Just did around 60 laps of Roebling Road track near Savannah, GA in the GT.
Used the "track numbers" from BaronW (thanks - they work!) and a new set of Pirelli P-Zero Corsa's. Sizes 345/35/ZR18 and 235/40/ZR18
The rear tires look great. The fronts too skinny and low profile. (They came as a matched set for an MC12). Not sure I would do this again.
As the event was not competitive in nature I only drove at around 8/10th's but feel the tires performed very well and the "BaronW set-up numbers" certainly give more "feel" to the car. More direct steering with good feedback. While this is good on the track - it detracts for the road. The car feels each wear groove more than stock and wants to follow it.
The Pirelli's by the way are a much harder ride than the stock Goodyear’s. If you are going to do lots of street and not much track - forget the Pirellis.
I plan a track week-end this week end and will be trying the Hoosier R6 slicks.
More next week...
Gordo.
Just did around 60 laps of Roebling Road track near Savannah, GA in the GT.
Used the "track numbers" from BaronW (thanks - they work!) and a new set of Pirelli P-Zero Corsa's. Sizes 345/35/ZR18 and 235/40/ZR18
The rear tires look great. The fronts too skinny and low profile. (They came as a matched set for an MC12). Not sure I would do this again.
As the event was not competitive in nature I only drove at around 8/10th's but feel the tires performed very well and the "BaronW set-up numbers" certainly give more "feel" to the car. More direct steering with good feedback. While this is good on the track - it detracts for the road. The car feels each wear groove more than stock and wants to follow it.
The Pirelli's by the way are a much harder ride than the stock Goodyear’s. If you are going to do lots of street and not much track - forget the Pirellis.
I plan a track week-end this week end and will be trying the Hoosier R6 slicks.
More next week...
Gordo.
FB GT40
GT Owner/B.o.D
SLF360
GT Owner
SLF360
GT Owner
FB GT40 said:
Gordo,
more now ! what about the tyres, what wheels you put in the back (18???), and how did it all feel. What you mean, not sure I'd do that again... !? :tongue
Nothing like being on the track!
Congratulations, looks like you had a blast!
I think you'll be very pleased with the performance and balance of the Hoosiers after all they were tested and a specific construction was chosen for the GT. I believe Hoosier even has an improved construction also in the works.
Once you slam the GT in 4th gear you will pull away from just about everyone out there!
The GT is a fantastic machine with nice balance, linear power and torque so overall it is easy to drive – very fast on the track.
The only thing that takes some getting used to are the high speeds that develop so quickly in the GT.
Congratulations, looks like you had a blast!
I think you'll be very pleased with the performance and balance of the Hoosiers after all they were tested and a specific construction was chosen for the GT. I believe Hoosier even has an improved construction also in the works.
Once you slam the GT in 4th gear you will pull away from just about everyone out there!
The GT is a fantastic machine with nice balance, linear power and torque so overall it is easy to drive – very fast on the track.
The only thing that takes some getting used to are the high speeds that develop so quickly in the GT.
B O N Y
MODERATOR & FGT OWNER
Canepa Brake Cooling Kit or Mod?
Hi Bony, Do you mean Canepa offer a conversion for the GT as opposed to a “kit”?
I believe it is very involved to run a cooling duct to the front brakes on the GT.
Lot’s of thing such as the radiator coolant lines, etc. have to be modified / moved / relocated in order to run a cooling duct to the front brakes.
The flex hose and modified backing plates themselves are easily had / modified but getting the flex line from the front grill and to the inner wheel well is quite difficult.
Curious what their “kit” involves.
Hi Bony, Do you mean Canepa offer a conversion for the GT as opposed to a “kit”?
I believe it is very involved to run a cooling duct to the front brakes on the GT.
Lot’s of thing such as the radiator coolant lines, etc. have to be modified / moved / relocated in order to run a cooling duct to the front brakes.
The flex hose and modified backing plates themselves are easily had / modified but getting the flex line from the front grill and to the inner wheel well is quite difficult.
Curious what their “kit” involves.
SLF360
GT Owner
great developing thread !
1) details on the GT specific Hoosiers please, and where I can get them
2) what about the brake duct opening. Very interested, indeed !
cheers
Stefan
PS: Here in Italy no one knows nothing about the FordGT... Ford is not even able to service them, Ferrari helps me out - they love the car (as much as I do)
This starts to be my favorite thread...TrackDay said:
1) details on the GT specific Hoosiers please, and where I can get them
2) what about the brake duct opening. Very interested, indeed !
cheers
Stefan
PS: Here in Italy no one knows nothing about the FordGT... Ford is not even able to service them, Ferrari helps me out - they love the car (as much as I do)
SLF360
GT Owner
TrackDay said:
And ask you to break earlier than what you are used to in other cars, before the turn.... :eek
SLF360
GT Owner
you will be amazed with the Hoosiers. Harder on the brakes though as you will be carrying a lot more speed into the corners. I cut 4 seconds on lap times on 2.4 mile track www.msrhouston.com