Prelube engine after sitting for 4 months?


D

DMS427

Ford Gt Owner
Jan 5, 2008
13
Michigan
I'm a new member and mechanically inclined... but not yet an expert on the GT's motor. Any chance one of the knowledgeable regulars like Shadowman could suggest a (relative easy)method of pre-lubing the GT's engine. I'm a little paranoid of cold startup wear after such a long period of time has elapsed.

I have an Accusump on my 427 Cobra that eliminates this issue entirely. In the past on older motors, I would just remove the distributor and manually drive the oilpump until I had good pressure..reinstall and fire away.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, David
 
You could simply follow the "priming" proceedure outlined for oil changes if you wanted to... but, the dry sump system, as designed, pretty much HAS oil sitting right at the pump all the time. The fact the car has been sitting for a period of time doesn't drain oil away from the pump.

My car sat for months (RAIN all the time) and I always had INSTANT pressure when I hit the red button.
 
I can understand not taking the car for a run, but if at all possible why not at least try to start the engine for a couple of minutes a week.
 
Best to let the engine ''stay still''. Unless you can start up and run the engine for at least 30-40 minutes to really 'heat it up', you create condensation, that can then form dilute acids and especially with an Aluminum engine...'eat it up from the inside."
Just keep the battery tender on all winter, full tank of gas, Stabil gas stabilizer in the tank , tires at 44psi and be ready for (hopefully ) April in Michigan and the great white North.

I once had a 4 cyl Honda 750 engine fully 'sieze' because I ran it for only 10 minutes every week in the winte.

AJB
 
This thread is right on target.
 
Mine's been sitting for months too - I've always thought it more damaging to start an engine and idle it once a week rather than just leaving it (as I have done).
 
AJB...I'm with you regarding proper engine start-up procedures. I would rather not start the car... if I can't drive it! One of the worst things you can do to an engine is repeatedly let it idle in the garage for 10 minutes (especially in cold climates) then shut it off thinking it has been properly warmed up. This process serves to quickly load the oil full of extremely acidic... unburned combustion gasses that can in short order wreak havoc on main and rod bearings. It is also the leading cause of premature exhaust corrosion and failure.

Ordinarily, I would just drive the car under load to achieve the necessary 180 degree oil temperatures necessary to fully burn these gasses out of the oil. However, the weather has been terrible here in Michigan the past few months and I have not had a single opportunity to drive the car on roads that were'nt covered in salt or snow!

Hence...the question about oil priming procedures or options for the GT motor. I'm sure I could just get a manual ..but was hoping some of our more seasoned experts might have a couple of ideas. I know we have a dry sump system with our cars and that oil pressure would come up quickly...but I still don't like the idea of those first few seconds on a motor that has essentially "dripped dry" of oil for many months!

Thanks again, David
 
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I've been told synth oil clings to 'parts big time, and therefore, "drip drying" over any reasonable amount of time shouldn't be a concern.

I'm sure someone here of The Forum has the tech knowledge on this.
 
The priming procedure is simple.

Step 1 press the accelerator all the way to the floor.

Step 2 put the transmission in neutral and set the parking brake.

Step 3 turn on the ignition and press the start button for 20 seconds. The engine will not fire with the accelerator fully pressed.
 
DMS, look at the oil change threads for priming after oil change. Bullitt has got it right. Make sure your float charger is ready to keep the battery charged.
 
Silverbullitt, Fubar, and Empty pockets I really appreciate your efforts to point me in the right direction. Ideally...it would be nice to be able to prime the motor without having to turn the engine over. However, it is probably a lot less work to just use the procedure outlined in the oil change link.

By the way, I noticed when I post, it shows me as a spectator instead of a GT owner...any recommendations on how to fix this issue? I'm pretty sure I registered properly.

Thanks again
 
DMS427 said:
Silverbullitt, Fubar, and Empty pockets I really appreciate your efforts to point me in the right direction. Ideally...it would be nice to be able to prime the motor without having to turn the engine over. However, it is probably a lot less work to just use the procedure outlined in the oil change link.

By the way, I noticed when I post, it shows me as a spectator instead of a GT owner...any recommendations on how to fix this issue? I'm pretty sure I registered properly.

Thanks again
Click to expand...


PM Bony or DBK. Dey kin fix dat! :thumbsup :cheers
 
Welcome David,
Changed your tittle, sent you an email.
Hope to meet you at the Rally!
Cheers,
daniel
 
Pockets has the most experience about "sitting" engines so I would listen to him.

Sorry EP ... its been too long since anyone threw a no driver dig at you. :biggrin
 
DPGT said:
Pockets has the most experience about "sitting" engines so I would listen to him.

Sorry EP ... its been too long since anyone threw a no driver dig at you. :biggrin
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'Know what I like about you, DP?

ABSOLUTELY NUTHIN', THAT'S WHUT!:tongue
 
Hey, put those roundels I gave you on the wife's car and pretend its a Tungsten GT. "00" rides again!!!!! Wait then your wife would never be able to drive her car again. Ok scratch that idea. :cheers
 
Not sure how the rest of you feel about it, but my winter procedure is as follows (Car is in heated garage from ~middle of November to end of April - 5½ months):

1) Fire up engine every 2-3 weeks.

2) Let engine run, clutch out, for about 15-20 minutes, A/C off - 'til the temp reaches ~200°F (to release and vent any condensation). Clutch out runs the transmission main shaft to warm the transaxle oil.

3) During this period, vary the engine rpm during this period, with the most constant rpm above 2,000 rpm, but exercising it up to at least 5,000 in spurts, every 4-5 minutes.

3) Turn on A/C to start the radiator fans, and bring the engine temperature back to 170-175°.

4) Shut down the engine and open the engine cover to let the heat escape.

PS) During the whole process, sit in the car (with a nice imported beer) and listen to a favorite CD (I've been using one downloaded with the tunes from Pixar's "CARS". Always nice to hear the M-9430-GTX header/exhaust system, and the neighbors never complain.
 
We had to remove my exhaust to cut it down for the bumper removal recently. We noticed that the O2 sensors were black and had to be replaced. And this thread was related to our theory of what caused the problem. I had started the motor several times over the past year in the garage just to show it to someone who came over to the house. I didn't take the car out, just let it run for a few minutes. I won't be doing that again.
 
Hi Gulf,

Yes, the car will start and run in "cold start mode" and the ECU will run very rich in this initial mode to keep driveability reasonable.

By the way, was that you going down Canoga Ave. this morning?
 
RALPHIE said:
Not sure how the rest of you feel about it, but my winter procedure is as follows (Car is in heated garage from ~middle of November to end of April - 5½ months):

1) Fire up engine every 2-3 weeks.

2) Let engine run, clutch out, for about 15-20 minutes, A/C off - 'til the temp reaches ~200°F (to release and vent any condensation). Clutch out runs the transmission main shaft to warm the transaxle oil.

3) During this period, vary the engine rpm during this period, with the most constant rpm above 2,000 rpm, but exercising it up to at least 5,000 in spurts, every 4-5 minutes.

3) Turn on A/C to start the radiator fans, and bring the engine temperature back to 170-175°.

4) Shut down the engine and open the engine cover to let the heat escape.

PS) During the whole process, sit in the car (with a nice imported beer) and listen to a favorite CD (I've been using one downloaded with the tunes from Pixar's "CARS". Always nice to hear the M-9430-GTX header/exhaust system, and the neighbors never complain.
Click to expand...

Here is the Central/South Texas winter procedure.

1. Press garage door #3 opener.

2. Climb into car.

3. Start car.

4. Back out of driveway.

5. Haul Ass after engine temp is over 160.
 
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