PPI On ERA Cobra Replica


usmcfred

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Oct 26, 2006
546
Massachusetts
Is there anyone living in or near Tyler, Texas that could do a PPI on an ERA Cobra Replica for me?

Thanks, usmcfred
 
If not here you could check the Cobra forum at www.clubcobra.com
 
I'm in Houston, about three hours from Tyler. Just sold my side-oiler ERA a couple of months ago, so I'm familiar with them. I can go check it out for you if you're serious, just let me know
 
I'm in Houston, about three hours from Tyler. Just sold my side-oiler ERA a couple of months ago, so I'm familiar with them. I can go check it out for you if you're serious, just let me know

Thanks much and most appreciated. I'll get back to you if I decide to pursue this car. I'm also considering a very similar ERA located in CT, which is much closer to me.

Since you've owned an ERA Cobra, what is your opinion of them, both pro and con?

Thanks and regards, usmcfred
 
Fred, I had mine for about 4 years, put about 6-7,000 miles on it. These cars are extremely well designed and built; while other guys with FFs etc would be breaking down or having bits fall off, my car just kept going (apart from a carb issue I had one time....thank you ethanol blends for gumming up my insides!). ERA changed their design a lot over the years, so a lter one will be better than an earlier one, mine was #654 and I think they're well into the 1,0000s by now. Their in-house rear suspension is way better than the Jag-based unit that comes as standard, so expect to pay more for the in-house unit. The overall stance and interior nails the original which some folk don't like as leg room is limited and you sit high. I'm 6' 4" and fit (barely) and after three hours behind the wheel its definitely time to stop and stretch! I'd rank them as the best of the mid-price replicas, much better than all the others. Next step up is a Kirkham, but of course that's another $40k or so....

I only sold mine because I just wasn't driving it enough, too many other toys and projects. Heck, I even made a grand profit!
 
ERA FIA small block ftw.

5D3_6566.jpg

5D3_6565.jpg
 
Hard to beat an ERA Cobra replica - looks like the real thing, rides and handles better. The fiberglass body is much more practical than an aluminum body. The alloy bodies are sweet, but unless you live near Provo, UT, you're gonna pay a pretty penny to an exotic car repair shop to fix any dings in that aluminum. I've had my ERA on the road for about seventeen years, and it still feels as tight as the day I fired it up.

first production ERA 289 FIA model, ordered July 1992; delivered December 1997; completed July 4, 1997:

IMG_5597 m (Large).jpg

Jeff
 
I'm in Houston, about three hours from Tyler. Just sold my side-oiler ERA a couple of months ago, so I'm familiar with them. I can go check it out for you if you’re serious, just let me know
Dave did you ever wash your Cobra??!
 
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The alloy bodies are sweet, but unless you live near Provo, UT, you're gonna pay a pretty penny to an exotic car repair shop to fix any dings in that aluminum.

Removing dents and dings in aluminum isn't difficult or expensive. Any good paintless dent removal tech can handle dings and dents. Xcentric took these cell phone pictures of my Cobra last weekend. The fender picture shows the same area that had a large dent which I had removed for $100. I challenge anyone to find the repaired area.

IMG_0749.jpg
IMG_0748.jpg
 
Removing dents and dings in aluminum isn't difficult or expensive. Any good paintless dent removal tech can handle dings and dents. Xcentric took these cell phone pictures of my Cobra last weekend. The fender picture shows the same area that had a large dent which I had removed for $100. I challenge anyone to find the repaired area.

View attachment 33497
View attachment 33498

Beautiful car!! Curious - question on the dent removal - did you see the work done? If so, can you share the method used?
 
Rex,

I've seen the guy I use remove dents many times (many on my cars, including a difficult to reach dent on my GT). He uses a fluorescent light with what look like T8 bulbs. The light has some sort of diffuser on it that, when set up to reflect on the surface being repaired, shows every little wave and dimple. He uses a bunch of metal rods of various lengths and end shapes to work out the dent from the inside. It is amazing to watch. I think it is actually easier to remove a dent on an unpainted car.
 
^^^ So...you have a "stories" GT. ;)
 
^^^ So...you have a "stories" GT. ;)

Yep. My GT has many stories, all very good.
 
Rex,

I've seen the guy I use remove dents many times (many on my cars, including a difficult to reach dent on my GT). He uses a fluorescent light with what look like T8 bulbs. The light has some sort of diffuser on it that, when set up to reflect on the surface being repaired, shows every little wave and dimple. He uses a bunch of metal rods of various lengths and end shapes to work out the dent from the inside. It is amazing to watch. I think it is actually easier to remove a dent on an unpainted car.

Paul - thanks for the response. It has to be an art, even though AL is easier to 'work', it also doesn't have a 'memory' to help revert to original shape like steel. Suspect alloy choice has a lot to do with it as well.
 
Dave did you ever wash your Cobra??!

Har-dee-har Ron, belive it or not, I didn't! I had promised the car to a guy in New Hampshire (although he never sent any deposit) and had booked a local detailer to come round and give it the once-over. Then some local guy started trying to get me to sell it to him instead. I kept saying " no, this man in New England wants it". So, one night, the local guy shows up at my house, clears a space off my work bench in the shop and starts laying out thousand dollar stacks of hundred dollar bills. When he got up to my price he looked at me and said " you gonna sell it it to that assole in New England now?"!!! As the saying goes, bullshit walks but money talks: he came back the next night and drove it home before the detailer showed up. My reputation is intact - I can even sell a dirty car!
 
...He uses a bunch of metal rods of various lengths and end shapes to work out the dent from the inside. It is amazing to watch....

That's amazing - I would have thought that he would use an English Wheel.
 
Har-dee-har Ron, belive it or not, I didn't! I had promised the car to a guy in New Hampshire (although he never sent any deposit) and had booked a local detailer to come round and give it the once-over. Then some local guy started trying to get me to sell it to him instead. I kept saying " no, this man in New England wants it". So, one night, the local guy shows up at my house, clears a space off my work bench in the shop and starts laying out thousand dollar stacks of hundred dollar bills. When he got up to my price he looked at me and said " you gonna sell it it to that assole in New England now?"!!! As the saying goes, bullshit walks but money talks: he came back the next night and drove it home before the detailer showed up. My reputation is intact - I can even sell a dirty car!
Ill buy your dirty GT!
 
Har-dee-har Ron, belive it or not, I didn't! I had promised the car to a guy in New Hampshire (although he never sent any deposit) and had booked a local detailer to come round and give it the once-over. Then some local guy started trying to get me to sell it to him instead. I kept saying " no, this man in New England wants it". So, one night, the local guy shows up at my house, clears a space off my work bench in the shop and starts laying out thousand dollar stacks of hundred dollar bills. When he got up to my price he looked at me and said " you gonna sell it it to that assole in New England now?"!!! As the saying goes, bullshit walks but money talks: he came back the next night and drove it home before the detailer showed up. My reputation is intact - I can even sell a dirty car!
I like that story washed or unwashed
 
Fred, I had mine for about 4 years, put about 6-7,000 miles on it. These cars are extremely well designed and built; while other guys with FFs etc would be breaking down or having bits fall off, my car just kept going (apart from a carb issue I had one time....thank you ethanol blends for gumming up my insides!). ERA changed their design a lot over the years, so a lter one will be better than an earlier one, mine was #654 and I think they're well into the 1,0000s by now. Their in-house rear suspension is way better than the Jag-based unit that comes as standard, so expect to pay more for the in-house unit. The overall stance and interior nails the original which some folk don't like as leg room is limited and you sit high. I'm 6' 4" and fit (barely) and after three hours behind the wheel its definitely time to stop and stretch! I'd rank them as the best of the mid-price replicas, much better than all the others. Next step up is a Kirkham, but of course that's another $40k or so....

I only sold mine because I just wasn't driving it enough, too many other toys and projects. Heck, I even made a grand profit!

I just sent you a PM. Please check your inbox. Thanks ...
 
Paul - thanks for the response. It has to be an art, even though AL is easier to 'work', it also doesn't have a 'memory' to help revert to original shape like steel. Suspect alloy choice has a lot to do with it as well.

I'm no metallurgist, but the aluminum on the Kirkham cars seems quite good. This is a good video of David Kirkham removing a nasty dent in a rear fender:

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9moYO-WWhaQ