Twice - both times the oil pump failed and twisted off the oil pump drive shaft. Makes a hex drive shaft look like a twist drill.
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Oh great, another gauge failure.
- Thread starter Wwabbit
- Start date
Twice - both times the oil pump failed and twisted off the oil pump drive shaft. Makes a hex drive shaft look like a twist drill.
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In My Opinion, I believe there is slightly more of a chance that a FGT could loose oil pressure as opposed to a conventional ( None Dry Sump ) type engine with an internally driven oil pump for the simple fact that our engines relay on belt to drive an externally mounted pump. With proper maintenance as you said it's Miniscule But with that in mind it's the reason I change the belt every year regardless of miles.
Xcentric
GT Owner
GTdrummer
GT Owner
Could have gone all day without seeing that. How about Jeff? Any similar failures?
Terry - this wasn't on my GT, rather it was on my 1966 Mustang 289. First time in 1984, second in 2011.
I just wanted to answer the question regarding any oil pressure failings. Both times, I was in my driveway when the failure occurred, noticed the pressure go to "0" and shut it down without damage.
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GTdrummer
GT Owner
Vincent998
GT Owner
This problem is well known. In many Ford V8s the oil pump is driven by a quill from the bottom of the distributor. That quill occasionally fails. I'm no expert, but for a variety of reasons I would doubt such a failure would occur in a GT motor.
Sinovac
GT Owner
Totally different design with the FGT's oil pump drive. The main problem thus far hasn't been with the belt itself, but with the belt pulley.
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FBA
GT Owner
I just ordered the complete Speedhut cluster. It also comes with the black insert, so I don't have to modify the original one! Ordered the legacy boost gauge with the sending unit so now, I'll get the real boost pressure readout in the cluster! Thank god!
The clearances in the oil pump of the 289 OHV engine are extremely small, so, if a small particle (smaller that the pickup screen openings) enters the pump, it locks it up. The failure then happens as the pump stops and the camshaft and driven distributor keep turning, twisting the intermediate drive shaft. The last time, I replaced it with an ARP drive shaft, although, if it happens again, I'm afraid it will transfer the problem to a more expensive location. As a safety precaution, I install a new oil pump each time.
I agree that the GT motor would not have such a failure, but I agree with Lorenzo that a working oil pressure gauge is extremely important, not only because of the belt drive, but for any failure that might occur in the oiling system. The two gauges I feel are most important to any engine's livelihood are the oil pressure, and the oil temperature (not the water temp). Unfortunately, we only have one of these. A ammeter or voltmeter tells us the condition of the electrical system's operational status, and the water temperature lets us know if the cooling system is working [i.e, the coolant (water) pump is running]. A tachometer used to be a precautionary gauge to prevent overrevving an engine, but today's electronics seem to do this well enough, yet for racing, it helps us gauge our shift points. Speedometers are only necessary to let one know that we have entered the speed zone where we might be doing something unlawful. Regarding a boost/vacuum gauge, the only time I've looked at mine is when cruising, in order to keep the vacuum level high and thus get the best efficiency (fuel mileage) - If I'm in the boost range, my eyes are looking out the windshield, which seems more important at that time.
the Wizard
GT Owner
SpeedHut is gonna have a sale in March.....
FBA....is installing the sensor and routing the pressure line pretty easy?
FBA....is installing the sensor and routing the pressure line pretty easy?
jbyrnes
FORD GT OWNER
Years ago I built up my 68 GT-350 with a heavily modified 69' BOSS 302 motor. To protect my investment I wired the ignition through the oil pressure idiot light sensor which activates at about 5 psi so if I lost oil pressure the motor would quit. Worked great, but had the added hassle of needing to add an under-dash override switch for starting the car so the motor wouldn't have to crank too long to build up enough oil pressure before firing. But with today's electronic systems, software, and sensors it seems it would be simple to have ignition cutoff w/o oil pressure functionality, without the starting issue.
BlackICE
GT Owner
I had an 88 Vette that did that with a starting motor override. No oil pressure and the fuel pump are turned off.
FBA
GT Owner
I guess I'm gonna find out! I believe the only PITA will be crossing through the firewall; the rest should be be simple.
the Wizard
GT Owner
twobjshelbys
GT Owner
I'm curious how a direct reading boost gauge goes in. Is there a port on the supercharger for a sensor and sending unit? I'm guessing the connection to the instruments is a wire (not a live pressure tube), but where do you route it? Detailed instructions in a "how I did it" topic would be a great help.
I'm interested because the configuration I have offsets the stock boost gauge and so fare there hasn't been a "cheating" way to recenter it. So it's out, but it doesn't read right anyway so maybe the best solution is to just go with Speedhut.
BlackICE
GT Owner
Only wires need to be routed. Follow the shifter cables through the firewall and inside the center tunnel, under the radio and then to the gauges. Be sure to tie wrap the wires away from the belts.
FBA
GT Owner
Not till April; we have a few feet of snow and it's getting done at the performance shop when I get my pulley/ intakes done. I don't feel like doing it myself, so I'll wait. From what B/I just posted, doesn't seem that tough. Seems like changing the cluster is actually more work.
ByeEnzo
GT
Anyone have oil pressure fail while driving? Why yes...damn near to 0 PSI.
http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/showthread.php/19626-Failed-oil-pump-pulley-the-sad-saga-of
Xcentric
GT Owner
I read a bit of that thread. Did the oil pressure gauge save you, or did the oil starved clattering noise save you?
I'm not trying to say gauges aren't needed. But the question was, does anybody drive with failed gauges? I'd say, if power train failures were rank ordered, oil pump failure would be very low on the list. Pure speculation on my part, of course. I'd still drive without any gauges. That stuff only happens to other people. :biggrin
I'm not trying to say gauges aren't needed. But the question was, does anybody drive with failed gauges? I'd say, if power train failures were rank ordered, oil pump failure would be very low on the list. Pure speculation on my part, of course. I'd still drive without any gauges. That stuff only happens to other people. :biggrin