Knights upholstery lowered seat done...


HOOKED ON GT

GT Owner
Oct 26, 2006
468
Orlando & Australia
After finding out a 6' and change fella with a helmet on couldn't fit in the GT safely (for the odd track day) I decided to go with the lower drop from Knights upholstery.

Its a charm and now my dome and helmet fits fine in a respectable seating position.
Little harder to get out of the hole but not bad at all.

Here are some pre and post shots of the front/mid/rear sections of the seat.
They say its a 2 inch drop but not sure what location thats measured from.

The seat change using yours as the base is $2,000 plus shipping (shipping was expensive + insurance)
IMG_1773.jpegIMG_1969.jpegIMG_1768.jpegIMG_1967.jpegIMG_1770.jpegIMG_1968.jpegIMG_1771.jpegIMG_1772.jpegIMG_1970.jpeg
 
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Oct 14, 2009
367
Alberta, Canada
I hear ya. I'm 6'1" and before I bought my car I was concerned about "fitting" into a FGT. When I pulled the trigger on my car I had the drivers seat modified and lowered and now I fit just fine and dandy. A good mod and definitely worth the dollars for the tall drivers out there.

QSS
 

pacettr

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Apr 2, 2013
101
Mustang, OK
I’m having a gurney bubble installed but I think this is a must as well. I’m 6’4“ and plan to drive as much as I can within reason.
 

Redfire03

GT Owner
Dec 8, 2020
49
Denver, CO
Going to be sending them mine soon as the car comes out of storage in a few weeks!

Can you talk about how you removed the lower seat, time involved, etc.?

Any pictures of it installed?
 

HOOKED ON GT

GT Owner
Oct 26, 2006
468
Orlando & Australia
Not hard to pull the lower portion apart for shipping.

Disconnect the seat belt active wire next to tunnel once seat is slid forward
.
You'll have to slide seat back and forward to get to the bolts in the floor (Torx 50. I used blue thread locker when I reinstalled and kept each bolt in its same location as their marked from factory and tightened to match torqued marks).

Do the rear floor bolts first.

I found my socket and Torx struggled to fit in the limited space above the front floor bolts and as I took them out I also tilted the frame back (doing a wheelie) so I could keep gaining space when the bolts backing out.

Add a towel to the side sill so seat won't bang there as you remove it (easier to till seat very vertical when taking out of cabin)

Tilt seat sideways a bit to expose the seat belt strap bolt.... (Rest it on the towel a bit...I think its a 17mm socket)

Find a table to work on seat.
Take off other side seat "clicker" and frame support.

Take note of the underside seat bolt/track locations... slide track back/forard so you can get to access to them.
Pics and vid will help you remember the bolt/hole orientation.
I used a bit of butyl blob and a picking tool to stick the bolt to butyl and then direct the bolt into its hard to reach track slot (unless you have alien fingers when your putting the tracks back on)

There are two bolts on each side of seat (easy to remove Torx 40) that connect the two sections of the seats

There's a small cap ro remove on the tunnel side of the seat that hides the tilt adjustment shaft clip.
Tap the shaft to free it from the retaining clip ( I used a section of rod steel, easy to get free)....and pull the seat adjuster shaft out (keep the retainer ring safe would-be easy to loose)

If the teeth on the ring aren't flat, tap them flat so they bite the shaft when you reinstall it.

My lower portion of the seat came free pretty easy, might be tight and two people would help jiggle it free if tight.

I did $2,500 on the value for shipping and protected the ends of the seat arms incase they punched through the box.
My shipping was $200 from FL to WI at the time.

Shipping was alot more then that on the return but they did find a little cheaper rate the second try.
Return insurance value would need to reflect the $2,000 Knights work on the return trip valuation.

I also cleaned out the floor when seat was out from bits a dirt/dust and when I got it all back together I did a moisturise on the leather.

Its pretty easy job.
 

w.a.nelson

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Feb 29, 2008
1,096
Asbury, NJ and Bourne, MA
Probably easier to do than to write up!

Great detail, and priceless to anyone who wants to do it.

( I'd have to grow a fair amount to make it a requirement, and I don't think that's too likely. Going the other way. )
 

PeteK

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Apr 18, 2014
2,268
Kalama, Free part of WA State
Yeah, I hear ya. I used to be 6’2”…
 

HighHP

GT Owner
Jun 3, 2019
434
Spokane, WA
I am 5'-11". I bought my car from a guy who was tall and had the driver seat lowered. I bought a new OEM seat bottom thinking the lowering probably made it not as comfortable as OEM. I thought that padding must have been removed. I put about 1000 miles on with the lowered seat. Then I installed the OEM seat bottom. It was less comfortable and the top of my head was always just touching the top. It felt like I was rubbing a balloon on the top of my head for static charge. I reinstalled the lowered seat bottom, much more comfortable.
 

HOOKED ON GT

GT Owner
Oct 26, 2006
468
Orlando & Australia
Yeah, I hear ya. I used to be 6’2”…


6' 6" in heels
 

roketman

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Oct 24, 2005
7,997
ma.
5’5” no issues!