Failed oil pump pulley...the sad saga of


Specracer said:
Not a bad idea, I will try. But the vice grips I use are small (5")' and it's nice because the pliers can also be at an angle to clear the cover. Easy to get them tight enough to not slip or damage the bit. Had tried my reg torx sockets, and the loose bit with tiny 5/16 sockets, and flex head ratchet, too long. I'll try the other next winter when I change the belt. Thanks!
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I have used craftsman small wrenches. I think they are in an ignition wrench set. They are so cheap you could glue the bit to the wrench. They are only about 3 inches long.
 
The best way to do them that I have found is with a small 1/4" drive ratchet (I use this one):
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=82957&group_ID=21944&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
And the T27 Torx from this set:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=79661&PartNo=BLPTORX1410&group_id=20809&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

The height of the Torx bit in this set the just tall enough to clear the oil pump cover on all of the bolts except the one next to the balancer which is easy when combined with a 3" extension. I use this combination all the time and it works perfectly. :thumbsup
 
Like those stubby torx....So this might help also:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...8&group_ID=107&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

What is also nice they make this 1/4"drive sized ratchet with a 3/8" drive. I use this on the belly pans, as I always do the final tightening by hand, after I have spun then in with a drill.
 
If anyone has that much difficulty removing the screws, try it from the inside of the car.
 
Specracer said:
Like those stubby torx....So this might help also:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...8&group_ID=107&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

What is also nice they make this 1/4"drive sized ratchet with a 3/8" drive. I use this on the belly pans, as I always do the final tightening by hand, after I have spun then in with a drill.
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That is a great ratchet design. I also use a similar one for the belly pan screws.
 
In case a few missed the tool I used for getting the Drive Belt Cover screws on and off after breaking them loose; here it is again, and I think the Snap On Truck continues to sell them:

http://1fordgt.com/2011/Ford_gt/February/3BeltChange/0001.jpg

Initially, I tried taking the inside cover off behind the sub woofer to access the top cover scews, and it just wasn't much better. Breaking them loose and giving the final torque from underneath was easy: working them out once loose, and starting them back in to snug was the challenge, made simple with this 1/4" Harley Carb adjusting tool, after I made the bend closer to ninety degrees.

Pete S.

(I admit I need a new longer 1/4" ratchet; and prefer the Lisle brand torx bits)
 
"1/4" Harley Carb adjusting tool, after I made the bend closer to ninety degrees".

Ok,
So now I need to locate one of these HD tools...... where can I get one ?

Thanks
 
Bill Briley said:
"1/4" Harley Carb adjusting tool, after I made the bend closer to ninety degrees".

Ok,
So now I need to locate one of these HD tools...... where can I get one ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I see one on e-bay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/blue...Z110710204849QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

Item number: 110710204849

I had mine from back in the "turning wrenches for a living" days.

Pete S.

... and another http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLUE...Z320723194022QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

Item number: 320723194022

Hope this helps.
 
I've had mine apart more than once. I've never noticed a problem but I wasn't looking for this either. The oil pump is a fascinating piece of equipment and looks engineered to run for a 1000 years. I can't imagine it binding thru normal wear. The loose splines are obviously an issue to keep an eye on. I guess one advantage to running my fuel pump on the back of my oil pump is that the engine will starve before it can seize.

Thanks for sharing, I can't believe I missed this thread originally. This is one more testament to the tenacity and intelligence of a Ford GT owner.

Cheers.
 
Fubar, what specific tools did you use to remove the cover? I'm sure it wasn't a HD carb tool!

Howard
 
Howard said:
Fubar, what specific tools did you use to remove the cover? I'm sure it wasn't a HD carb tool!

Howard
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I think I used a small socket torx. It was a PIA. I remember having several choice words for the design team at that moment.
 
Any new information on this issue?

Has any one else seen any problems with this?
 
PILOTJPW1 said:
Any new information on this issue?

Has any one else seen any problems with this?
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I checked mine last fall when I did my winter oil change prior to storage. My car has about 4K miles on it. The pully and belt looked fine. No movment on the shaft and no dust or grime indicating spline chafing.
 
None here. I have changed my drive belt three times with no evidence of a problem. In my opinion, as important as this item is ,It deserves an inspection often.

I check mine every time the under belly pans are off, oil changes, cleaning, ect ect. Roughly mine are off about every 1000 miles if for no other reason then to clean out road debris

Now having said that I would also add that I dont think the issue is any cause for alarm.
I think as with any car, truck , van ect that once in a while something goe's haywire and dosen't always mean it's going to happen to them all.
 
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We inspected my pulley today. All looked tight.

Clean as new in there with 7k on the clock.
 
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