Engine DEAD!!

[Jason Watt]

Hi all,

It's been a while, but I just come back with the sad news that my engine has died today.

At a track day I suddenly felt a little misfire, and the car wasn't pulling as normal. Next thing I see the "check gauge" light has come on, and sadly - I had zero oil pressure!!

I quickly stop the car, and sat there going "Huh?" No oil smell, and there had been no oil smoke from the exhaust.

A few minutes I fire it up again, and my worst nightmare comes true - it's not firing on all 8, and I have major knocking!!!

I can only guess that my oil pump belt has fallen off, but right now I don't know.

The car will be inspected on Monday, but I have the feeling that I'm at least on the search for a short block.

Anyone here knows about availability and pricing??

What a sad day....

 

[fjpikul]

X2 Collision in Maryville, IL has an entire engine on E-bay.

 

[Fubar]

I'm sorry to hear about your problems but it still may be some less than the entire engine. If the oil pump belt was broken it would make a he'll of a noise down there. Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[Empty Pockets]

It's been a while, but I just come back with the sad news that my engine has died today.

'VERY sorry about your misfortune, '101. :frown There's no way at all to put a "happy face" on something like that. It is what it is.

What a sad day....

That's putting it mildly...

 

[HHGT]

Sorry about the Bad news. Wishing you the best.

 

[2112]

If you did loose Oil pressure and spun a bearing, That does not necessarily require a new block, crank or rods. If you do have to pull and do a complete rebuild, it can be an opportune time to make a few internal upgrades to the engines.

Complete assemblies, even used ones are extremely expensive. New blocks and heads can be had from SVO relatively inexpensively. Custom billet cranks are not too bad either. You could buy these three major items for around $12K or less.

FWIW.
.

 

[shelbyelite]

I wouldnt jump the gun until I had a closer look at the problem to figure out just what it is. Many other things could have gone wrong. I will keep my fingers crossed for you buddy.....

 

[Copenhagen GT]

Hi Jason

Not really what you want to experience! Hopefully the engine isn´t too damaged .... Where did you race the car?

later
Anders

 

[Jason Watt]

If you did loose Oil pressure and spun a bearing, That does not necessarily require a new block, crank or rods. If you do have to pull and do a complete rebuild, it can be an opportune time to make a few internal upgrades to the engines.

Complete assemblies, even used ones are extremely expensive. New blocks and heads can be had from SVO relatively inexpensively. Custom billet cranks are not too bad either. You could buy these three major items for around $12K or less.

FWIW
.

Thanks for the kind words guys.

@2112: This was exactly my thought - perhaps this is a sign from above to go for an upgraded bottom end and invest in a TT-set...

I'll keep you all posted when the "Post Mortem" has taken place...

 

[Black GT]

Sorry to hear about your engine........What mods if any do you have?

 

[B.M.F.]

I See your in demark. I would be interested in your long block and i have a 300 mile long block and a 3000 mile long block. IDK what the shipping would be though to make the core worth shipping back here?

 

[Kayvan]

Very sorry to hear.

When was last oil change ? And last time you checked level on dipstick?

 

[Neilda]

Eeek. That sounds expensive. Sorry to read about that.

 

[Jason Watt]

Saved - but then again not...

Got down to inspecting today, and to go through the steps for you - it went like this:

As I suspected it was indeed the oil pump belt that had come off. I don't know why - the belt tighten-er had not come loose, and when checked - the belt was not possible to slip back on.

Next thing we remove the sump cover and a rod cap, and it doesn't look too bad. The crank seems perfectly fine, and for the bearing - well I don't know if the mark is normal/acceptable or if it shows signs of running without oil pressure?

BUT ALL THAT SEEMS NOT VERY RELEVANT OR IMPORTANT WHEN I SUDDENLY NOTICE THIS!!!

Yes - that is my crank shaft just about to snap!!

SO??? Should I feel lucky that I now can "get off" by installing a new crank shaft, cus we all know what would have happened if it had snapped and valve train had come to a halt - while pistons was still moving at many feet per second.. :ack

 

[2112]

Holy Cow! I would not have expected that.

As painful as this is, It could be a lot worse.

What would have caused the fracture? These are forged steel cranks, correct?
.

 

[HHGT]

I think unless you are running over 1000 Hp, Ford should be very very interested in having the crank analyzed by a metallurgist. Who supplied our cranks? Bigger question. should everyone that has a Whipple or TT inspect their Cranks?

 

[Kayvan]

Did this car have the Speedy Sleeve at Crank seal?

 

[2112]

I think unless you are running over 1000 Hp, Ford should be very very interested in having the crank analyzed by a metallurgist. Who supplied our cranks? Bigger question. should everyone that has a Whipple or TT inspect their Cranks?

Agreed, but it appears it is out on the snout. Isn't it common to crack there if the supercharger belt tension is incorrect? (Rather than the junction between the rod journals and counterweight throws).

Just postulating mind you. :rolleyes

Sometimes we never figure out what went wrong, I just broke a billet camshaft in a pushrod motor while essentially idling.

.

 

[Ed Sims]

My engine died also so I took the opportunity to have Shadowman make it better. These things happen.

Ed

 

[Jason Watt]

Need advice...

Been thinking - and I feel tempted to spice up my engine since it will be going apart soon, so I'm playing with a couple of ideas.

So - do I?:

1: Get a new crank and leave the rest as is.

2. Upgrade crank and rods and possibly port the heads while the motor is apart anyway (I have the 3.4 Whipple)

3: Get a short block from MMR like described below, and then go crazy on boost on either a 4.0 or a Heffner TT setup.

1500HP+ GT500 Forged short-block

*Cast Iron 5.4 GT500 Block

*New 4340 Forged 4.165 Crankshaft, includes additional heat treat w/micro polished journals at no extra charge

*New 4340 6.658 Manley Pro-series Billet Rods ( These US made rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest I-beam rod available for your 5.4

*New 2618 Alloy Forged Manley or Diamond pistons (High or low compression)

*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)

*Federal Mogul Competition series heat treated Rod and Main bearings

*ARP main stud kit for maintaining correct cap location under the hardest of loads

*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving short-block available, Pre-Lubricated with Royal Purple Assembly Lube and spin tested. Lastly 3 technicians sign off on your new engine prior to packaging and crating.

$4199

$7299 With Ford GT supercar Aluminum block option (saves 100 lbs)

What would you guys do?? - please help me with ideas...