This is a relatively simple DIY project that can be completed in 2-3 hours depending on your skill level. It took me a whole afternoon but I was really taking my time, trying not to scratch, rip, tear, or damage anything. Also, I was taking pictures and documenting the install for this DIY. I could do it in less than 2 hours now that I know what I am doing. It will take even less time if you DO NOT have the Mac option since those WITH the Mac will have an extra step in removing the subwoofer. Basic hand tools is all you will need. Well, let's get started!
Here's a picture of the Ford Racing Performance Short Shift Kit (Part # M-7210-GT) It comes with the shifter assembly, 4 aluminum spacers, 4 washers, 4 bolts, some grease, and some RED Loctite. I purchased the kit from WWW.DAGOSTINORACING.COM for $445. I have heard that FORD is no longer making them (as of 05-10-07) but I'm not sure if that's true.
Here are a few pics of the stock shifter assembly next to the short shifter for comparison. Stock is on the left and short shifter is on the right in both pictures
Most people like to start by using blue painter's tape and taping up the sides of the center console, e-brake handle, and trim around the radio in order to prevent scratching. I did not feel this was necessary except down by the radio where it is a tight fit. The magnesium components will invariably rub down there so tape this section up for sure like seen in the 2 pictures below.
Remove the shift knob. Use a 16mm open ended wrench to hold the retaining nut right below the shift knob. Hold the knob with one hand and turn counter-clockwise. Continue to unscrew the knob and also unscrew and remove the nut. You can take off the boot by squeezing it with one hand like a balloon while pulling up at one end. It is held in place by 2 wire retainers. I just left it on, it doesn't really matter.
Next, you will need to remove the magnesium Emergency brake surround. Pull up on the e-brake to engage it. Slip 2 fingers into the surround opening and gently pull straight up (VERTICAL) The surround is only held on by some friction clips and should not be overly hard to release. Below is a picture of the underside of the surround with clips exposed so you know what it looks like.
Next, remove the center subwoofer cover and trim from the bulkhead. You need to unscrew 6 TORX head screws. 3 per side. I used a T-27 Pulling the seats all the way forward will give you the space you need. Below is a picture of the passenger side TORX screws.
Once the screws are out, just pull straight out on the top portion of the subwoofer cover and it will easily pull away from the bulkhead. Remove it from the vehicle. Here's a picture of the subwoofer cover and a picture with it out of the car.
Next, you will remove the leather panels that run along the bottom of the center console. These pieces are rather flimsy so take your time when removing them. They are only held on by velcro strips along the top border. Start at the rear most top corner and pry straight out. Once you get one velcro attachment undone, you will see how it is held on. Once the whole top portion has been unfastened, just lift up on the panel and it will slide right out of a groove that it sits in. Remove from the vehicle and repeat on the other side. Below is a pic of both sides with the panels off, and a pic of the front/back of the panels to show where the velcro is.
There are 4 TORX-27 screws on each side of the center console, holding it down. Some of them are circled in the above pictures. They are a little tough to turn since I think RED-LOCTITE was used on them from the factory.
In order for the center console to lift up and out, the subwoofer needs to be removed for clearance. There are two main TORX-27 screws on each side, holding it to the bulkhead . These are circled in the pics below.
Once these 4 screws are removed, pull the sub out of its position and gain access to the two connectors on the drivers side of the amplifier and release them. The sub can now be removed from the vehicle.
The E-brake should still be engaged to it's maximum vertical position.
Lift up on the rear most part of the console and gently rock it up and to the rear of the vehicle. You want to clear the radio so you don't scratch up everything and make sure you pull up and to the rear of the car. Once the rear of the console is up about 4 inches or so, you will be able to shine a light under the console to disconnect an A/C harness. Once, the harness is disconnected, you can now completely remove the console. NOTE: There is a hardline of some sort underneathe the console on the passenger side. Be careful when pulling up on the console as the free edge can catch this hardline and snag it. If you keep pulling and force it, you may do damage. I highlighted this hardline in the picture below. Also, this picture illustrates the center console completely removed.
Now, the shifter mechanism is exposed
Remove the gold retaining clips from each of the shifter cables by putting a screwdriver thru the hole and pulling up. The clips will come free. Below is a picture of where the clips are located.
Then release the wire retainers which are around the ends of the cables which attach to the actual shifter. These are a ball and socket type connection. Remove the wire retainers completely. Then pop out the cable ends with firm pressure. It does take a little muscle. Here's a pic of the end of a cable showing the ball joint and the wire clip in place.
Next, there are two fasteners attached to the shifter bracket which need to be released. One is a white x-mas tree fastener that you just have to pull out and the other is a black snap clip. Just undo the snap and release the cable that it holds. Now the entire shifter bracket can be removed by unscrewing the 4 large nuts circled below.
The whole assembly can be pulled off. Here is a pic of what it looks like out of the car.
Find a 10mm wrench and unscrew the 4 bolts holding the blue shifter body to the shifter bracket. Red LOCTITE was used on these from the factory so it is tough. Here's a picture of the bolts that need to be unscrewed from the bottom (only 2 can be seen in the picture but there are 4)
Replace the old shifter assembly with the Short shift assembly using 4 new bolts that came with the kit. Be sure to use red LOCTITE on the ends of these bolts which was included in the kit. This will be a good time to use the supplied grease to lube all the linkages on the shifter that come in contact.
Lastly, remove the rubber grommets (4 of them) from the shifter bracket and replace with the aluminum washers that came with the kit. These will afford a more precise feel when shifting. I did not notice any excess vibration or noise when switching to these although the directions say that it may increase noise/vibration.
Now, the rest is just reversing the directions above to install everything back on. Make sure you test the shifter to make sure you can get into all gears including reverse without difficulty. You should not have to make any adjustments to the cables.
That's it! Pat yourself on the back, hit the road, and feel a significant difference in shift feel and precision.
Jeff
Here's a picture of the Ford Racing Performance Short Shift Kit (Part # M-7210-GT) It comes with the shifter assembly, 4 aluminum spacers, 4 washers, 4 bolts, some grease, and some RED Loctite. I purchased the kit from WWW.DAGOSTINORACING.COM for $445. I have heard that FORD is no longer making them (as of 05-10-07) but I'm not sure if that's true.
Here are a few pics of the stock shifter assembly next to the short shifter for comparison. Stock is on the left and short shifter is on the right in both pictures
Most people like to start by using blue painter's tape and taping up the sides of the center console, e-brake handle, and trim around the radio in order to prevent scratching. I did not feel this was necessary except down by the radio where it is a tight fit. The magnesium components will invariably rub down there so tape this section up for sure like seen in the 2 pictures below.
Remove the shift knob. Use a 16mm open ended wrench to hold the retaining nut right below the shift knob. Hold the knob with one hand and turn counter-clockwise. Continue to unscrew the knob and also unscrew and remove the nut. You can take off the boot by squeezing it with one hand like a balloon while pulling up at one end. It is held in place by 2 wire retainers. I just left it on, it doesn't really matter.
Next, you will need to remove the magnesium Emergency brake surround. Pull up on the e-brake to engage it. Slip 2 fingers into the surround opening and gently pull straight up (VERTICAL) The surround is only held on by some friction clips and should not be overly hard to release. Below is a picture of the underside of the surround with clips exposed so you know what it looks like.
Next, remove the center subwoofer cover and trim from the bulkhead. You need to unscrew 6 TORX head screws. 3 per side. I used a T-27 Pulling the seats all the way forward will give you the space you need. Below is a picture of the passenger side TORX screws.
Once the screws are out, just pull straight out on the top portion of the subwoofer cover and it will easily pull away from the bulkhead. Remove it from the vehicle. Here's a picture of the subwoofer cover and a picture with it out of the car.
Next, you will remove the leather panels that run along the bottom of the center console. These pieces are rather flimsy so take your time when removing them. They are only held on by velcro strips along the top border. Start at the rear most top corner and pry straight out. Once you get one velcro attachment undone, you will see how it is held on. Once the whole top portion has been unfastened, just lift up on the panel and it will slide right out of a groove that it sits in. Remove from the vehicle and repeat on the other side. Below is a pic of both sides with the panels off, and a pic of the front/back of the panels to show where the velcro is.
There are 4 TORX-27 screws on each side of the center console, holding it down. Some of them are circled in the above pictures. They are a little tough to turn since I think RED-LOCTITE was used on them from the factory.
In order for the center console to lift up and out, the subwoofer needs to be removed for clearance. There are two main TORX-27 screws on each side, holding it to the bulkhead . These are circled in the pics below.
Once these 4 screws are removed, pull the sub out of its position and gain access to the two connectors on the drivers side of the amplifier and release them. The sub can now be removed from the vehicle.
The E-brake should still be engaged to it's maximum vertical position.
Lift up on the rear most part of the console and gently rock it up and to the rear of the vehicle. You want to clear the radio so you don't scratch up everything and make sure you pull up and to the rear of the car. Once the rear of the console is up about 4 inches or so, you will be able to shine a light under the console to disconnect an A/C harness. Once, the harness is disconnected, you can now completely remove the console. NOTE: There is a hardline of some sort underneathe the console on the passenger side. Be careful when pulling up on the console as the free edge can catch this hardline and snag it. If you keep pulling and force it, you may do damage. I highlighted this hardline in the picture below. Also, this picture illustrates the center console completely removed.
Now, the shifter mechanism is exposed
Remove the gold retaining clips from each of the shifter cables by putting a screwdriver thru the hole and pulling up. The clips will come free. Below is a picture of where the clips are located.
Then release the wire retainers which are around the ends of the cables which attach to the actual shifter. These are a ball and socket type connection. Remove the wire retainers completely. Then pop out the cable ends with firm pressure. It does take a little muscle. Here's a pic of the end of a cable showing the ball joint and the wire clip in place.
Next, there are two fasteners attached to the shifter bracket which need to be released. One is a white x-mas tree fastener that you just have to pull out and the other is a black snap clip. Just undo the snap and release the cable that it holds. Now the entire shifter bracket can be removed by unscrewing the 4 large nuts circled below.
The whole assembly can be pulled off. Here is a pic of what it looks like out of the car.
Find a 10mm wrench and unscrew the 4 bolts holding the blue shifter body to the shifter bracket. Red LOCTITE was used on these from the factory so it is tough. Here's a picture of the bolts that need to be unscrewed from the bottom (only 2 can be seen in the picture but there are 4)
Replace the old shifter assembly with the Short shift assembly using 4 new bolts that came with the kit. Be sure to use red LOCTITE on the ends of these bolts which was included in the kit. This will be a good time to use the supplied grease to lube all the linkages on the shifter that come in contact.
Lastly, remove the rubber grommets (4 of them) from the shifter bracket and replace with the aluminum washers that came with the kit. These will afford a more precise feel when shifting. I did not notice any excess vibration or noise when switching to these although the directions say that it may increase noise/vibration.
Now, the rest is just reversing the directions above to install everything back on. Make sure you test the shifter to make sure you can get into all gears including reverse without difficulty. You should not have to make any adjustments to the cables.
That's it! Pat yourself on the back, hit the road, and feel a significant difference in shift feel and precision.
Jeff
Last edited:
