Coolant Drain


Specracer

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Nov 28, 2005
6,893
MA
I think the over heating situation is a touch over analyzed. The car automatically protects its self. As you get to 240, 2 things happen, 1st you get a red light in the gauge, then if you ignore that, car will go into limp mode. Ive had both happen on tracks.

Thanks for the correction about water wetter having rust inhibitor.
 

Sinovac

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 18, 2006
5,758
Largo, Florida
D
My temp gauge can climb fast during the summer months here, especially in traffic, and was wondering if the Evans product might provide a solution.

Is your car stock? I have a pulley/tune/exhaust and my car never runs hot, even in the brutal Florida summers.
 

Xcentric

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 9, 2012
5,213
Myakka City, Florida
My temp gauge can climb fast during the summer months here, especially in traffic, and was wondering if the Evans product might provide a solution.

I didn't think Gary would venture outside OEM-spec boundaries, based on inclination of his past posts, though I had to ask.

I don't recall my temp gauge ever going over 210-215, and that was on the track at high rpm. In traffic here it's 175-180 with the AC on, 185-195 with AC off.

Many overheating problems are a result of air trapped in the system.

I used the Motorcraft coolant to ensure compatibility, since it was being mixed with old coolant that I couldn't drain.

Oh yeah......Evans advertises that their product prevents water-caused corrosion.

I'm relying on the inhibitors in the coolant and distilled water. I think the main reason for three year coolant service is that the anti-corrosion inhibitors wear out. I wonder why we can't refresh the inhibitors and call it a day. Other cars go 100k miles.
 

Kingman

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Aug 11, 2006
4,072
Surf City, USA
D


Is your car stock? I have a pulley/tune/exhaust and my car never runs hot, even in the brutal Florida summers.
Yes, my car is stock.
 

Kingman

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Aug 11, 2006
4,072
Surf City, USA
I think the over heating situation is a touch over analyzed. The car automatically protects its self. As you get to 240, 2 things happen, 1st you get a red light in the gauge, then if you ignore that, car will go into limp mode. Ive had both happen on tracks.

Fun Fact:
"There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home."
Ken Olsen, founder of Digital Equipment Corporation 1977

There's always some crazy nut asking how to do something better.
 

Kayvan

GT Owner
Jul 13, 2006
4,782
Kingman,

Get your coolant flushed and system bled, just to double-check. I have same 175-195 range as Xcentric; and lots in 165 range.

I do 100mile runs up Kanan canyons and PCH and never reach 200 deg.

Do you have the ‘05 front radiator screen?
 

Kingman

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Aug 11, 2006
4,072
Surf City, USA
Kingman,

Get your coolant flushed and system bled, just to double-check. I have same 175-195 range as Xcentric; and lots in 165 range.

I do 100mile runs up Kanan canyons and PCH and never reach 200 deg.

Do you have the ‘05 front radiator screen?
No, mine's an '06. I'm getting ready to flush my system and I will pay special attention to possible air in the system. After reading multiple responses here, it appears that air in the system might be the culprit.
 

Art138

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jan 4, 2011
541
Weston,FL
After I got the Torrie tune he adjusted the fans to come on sooner than when stock. Even in Florida heat stays below 200F.
 

MAD IN NC

Proud Owner/ BOD blah bla
Mark IV Lifetime
Feb 14, 2006
4,207
North Carolina
I just completed my flush.... I took out the plugs using a Allen/Socket and ratchet....

The radiator bleeder is in upper corner of grate drivers side. Book says remove grate which is a PIA but AZ Rich said work a screwdriver in there and ya can open valve... after ya put tubing on the petcock.
 

Xcentric

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 9, 2012
5,213
Myakka City, Florida
@MAD IN NC Is it possible that your block plugs had been removed before? Thread locker seal already broken?

How much additional coolant came out of the block?

What's a "grate?" No bleeder on the supercharger radiator?
 

The Grey Ghost

GT Owner
Mar 13, 2009
645
Kansas City
No bleeder on the supercharger radiator?


There is a bleeder Gary on the supercharger radiator as well.

Don't unscrew it too far, or it will fall out.

Pain in the butt to retrieve and reinstall. You can imagine how I know this..........
 

MAD IN NC

Proud Owner/ BOD blah bla
Mark IV Lifetime
Feb 14, 2006
4,207
North Carolina
@MAD IN NC Is it possible that your block plugs had been removed before? Thread locker seal already broken?

How much additional coolant came out of the block?

What's a "grate?" No bleeder on the supercharger radiator?


The plugs were not removed before.

Just kept pressure on the plugs till they eventually let loose.

When out probably 1 gal + additional came out.

The grate is over the fans inn the hood (2), each one is separate over each fan held in with 6 T-27

Didn't check on the bleeder for the SC radiator.

The car before change never was over 180-190f and when i drove it the other day it almost hit 200f I wanted to check and make sure that there was no air.......
 
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Xcentric

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 9, 2012
5,213
Myakka City, Florida
For the techno-geeks and DIYers, a cool video on making an induction heater. Even if you just buy one, some good info on how it works and what you can and cannot heat with it (ferrous yes, non-ferrous no, except with a specialty heater). Interesting too is short circuit risk (sparks!) with exposed coils. This one has insulation on the coil. Heat a bolt to almost 800 degrees F in one minute!

 
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AJK

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 12, 2006
329
I've always paid somebody to do all of the fluid changes. This time I decided to do it myself. Shout outs to @Sinovac, @Howard, and @thegtguy for their advice and friendship.

You start by removing countless belly pan and air dam/splitter screws, and breaking two splitter push pins. T27 and 8mm. Actually, this is more than needed for just the coolant drain. You only need to remove the splitter and the front pan. Unless you want to remove the block drains. I did not, but more on that later.

View attachment 55698


The naked plumbing. Battery box in the middle.

View attachment 55699


Optima!

View attachment 55700

The radiator drains are easily accessible. This is the engine radiator (driver side). Supercharger coolant is the passenger side. Gravity drain only produced a disappointing ~2 gal from the engine rad and ~1 gal from the supercharger rad. I raised the rear of the car and got another 1-2 qts.

The manual claims you can drain 80% of the coolant. Engine coolant capacity is 8.2 gal and supercharger coolant capacity is 4.0 gal. So, I only got about 25% using gravity. Not good.

View attachment 55701


I decided to see if I could vacuum out more using my Harbor Freight vacuum brake bleeder. $26 after 20% off any one item coupon plus a free flashlight! Made in Taiwan. They're the good guys, right?

View attachment 55702

At image limit, continued next post...

What did your have your compressor set at when drawing the fluid with the brake bleeder attached?
 

nota4re

GT Owner
Mark IV Lifetime
Le Mans 2010 Supporter
Feb 15, 2006
4,006
It's COMMON for a GT in SoCal on 85F+ days to run between 200-215F.... if you hit any traffic. Turning the AC on will typically bring those temps down into the 180-190 range.

The AirLift system is the best way to fill these cars but for a stock car that has otherwise been fine, it is highly unlikely that air suddenly found a way into the system, IMHO.
 

Xcentric

GT Owner
Mark II Lifetime
Jul 9, 2012
5,213
Myakka City, Florida
What did your have your compressor set at when drawing the fluid with the brake bleeder attached?

125 psi.
 

HighHP

GT Owner
Jun 3, 2019
315
Spokane, WA
I R&R'd the coolant in my GT for both the engine and the supercharger. Based on reports from everyone else about not getting anywhere near the Ford spec quantity drained, I very carefully measured all the fluid removed. I first drained per the service manual by opening the draincocks on both radiators. Drained about 3 gals from the engine and a little over 1 gal from the SC, with some extra coaxing steps. I then disconnected the large hose connected to the engine rad and got a lot more, see pic of hose. I also removed the engine drain plugs and again got a lot more, see pic of plug. Then I tipped the car and got a little more from both systems. Disconnected a couple of hoses in front of the engine, all dry, verification all had been drained.

In total, I got 4.7 gals from the engine system and 1.7 gals from the SC system. All coolant in both systems were completely empty with the exception of possibly a portion of the intercooler on the engine intake, minimal. Everything was empty and no place else for the coolant to hide. The Ford service manual specs 8.2 gal for the engine and 4 gal for the SC. I am convinced there is no way these systems hold that much coolant. Oh, yes, both systems were full to spec in the beginning.

Both radiators have the inlets on the top and the outlets on the bottom. This top down flow seems to lead to air entrapment in both radiators even using an airvac refill tool. It is possible that air was trapped in both. However, not 2-3 gals of air. The engine radiator upper air bleedcock is almost impossible to access and the SC radiator upper air bleedcock is impossible to access without removing the front fascia. I will be posting a solution to this bleed problem on a separate post.

Some have assumed that the engine drain plugs are held in place with red Loctite. There is no reason for red Loctite on plugs with tapered pipe threads, I believe this is a red sealant. My plugs were removed like any other plug with tapered pipe threads and sealant. For ease of future engine draining I installed draincocks with teflon sealant available from NAPA or most part stores, see pic. The part number is:
Weatherhead-Eaton 6788

PS: An aluminum boss can be cracked if a tapered pipe thread is over tightened, don't ask how I know, learned this in my early years. So I carefully did NOT over tighten the engine draincock. This boss is a bit too thin for aluminum, I believe.
 

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paul b

GT Owner
Nov 2, 2006
810
I did this a long time ago, I think if I remember correctly I hooked up the air lift and pressurized the system, blowing the coolant out.
 

HOOKED ON GT

GT Owner
Oct 26, 2006
339
Orlando & Australia
Oh yeah......Evans advertises that their product prevents water-caused corrosion.

I looked at their video with Leno and its a full replacement of normal cooling 50/50 mixes.
At $40 a gallon you'd need a pile for the GT, but never needs changing after that.

The rep mentions that it can work with up to 3% water stuck in the system, but seems the GT would have piles more then that hiding.
If thats the case then it means its boiling point is lower.?
I just bought the SNAP ON RADKIT PLUS so will go distilled water and water wetter (don't need anti freeze in Orlando) It has system protection additives.
 

HOOKED ON GT

GT Owner
Oct 26, 2006
339
Orlando & Australia
QUESTIONS......

After draining the the engine and supercharger systems via the lower draincocks, and tilting the car for a little extra volume (not doing engine block drain)

Wondering about two things...

1... You like the idea of pouring distilled water into the degas bottles to gravity wash out any older degraded coolant?
If yes.....once looking clear out the draincoks, lock the draincoks up and use AIR LIFT/RADKIT SNAP ON set ups many have bought (I just got the SNAP ON set up) and vac the system till stable.

Will any coolant exit the exhaust tube on the RADKIT AIRLIFT whilst sucking?

2.... Is the refill/suck up filling location once the system is negative pressurized via the upper draincock or lower on the drivers side?
And as the supercharger (right side) doesn't have an upper draincock, do you suck full from its only one?

Sorry for any dumbassness questions in there.

Stuart A
 
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