Clear Rock Shield

[Red Rocket]

On my car I had a clear film put on the front end and behind the rear wheels to cut down on rock and insect chips. It is almost invisible unless you know where to look for the blend lines . This will vary according to paint color of course - BTW my car is red. This is a nice alternative to a bra, at least for me anyway.

The type we used can be found at ventureshield.com and unlike some shield products this stuff is smooth with no 'orange peel' effect. If your installer searches the NA cars under Ford GT40 he will find the patterns he will need for a laser cutter. Don't let anyone razor cut a shield right on the car - too risky.

BTW the way the stripes have been painted on the GT, be aware there is a possibility the paint will lift in the stripe area if the installer is not extra careful. The installer will need to be very patient and apply decent heat to remove the shield to replace it. Its easier after the car has warmed up after driving. ALSO - Make sure you have an understanding with the installer in advance as to who will cover any damage in the event something bad happens. That way there's no expensive surprises (most installers have good relationships with high-end bodyshops anyway).

 

[Roger Vincent]

Could you tell me the cost please?

 

[Red Rocket]

cost

It varies widely according to the installer of course. Mine cost about $600 and he needed the car overnight to make sure it didn't lift after it dried. I should also mention that some of us are leery of 'bras' because if they shift around in the wind, it can rub the paint right through to the primer. That's happened to me on other cars.

 

[Shadowman]

The clear bra if done properly is awesome; I have had it done on many cars

Shadowman

 

[Roger Vincent]

Thanks Red Rocket

I have contacted an installer near where I live and am waiting to hear back. Considering that the masks are about 700 plus and as you say, are a bit of a hassle with on and off, abrasion, and so on this seems like a good alternative to: road rash, bras, not driving, repainting, etc. I do have a couple of concerns: if it is ever removed, it may take the paint with it, and that it won't have the shine after a few years or may yellow after awhile. Your thoughts?

 

[Shadowman]

I have contacted an installer near where I live and am waiting to hear back. Considering that the masks are about 700 plus and as you say, are a bit of a hassle with on and off, abrasion, and so on this seems like a good alternative to: road rash, bras, not driving, repainting, etc. I do have a couple of concerns: if it is ever removed, it may take the paint with it, and that it won't have the shine after a few years or may yellow after awhile. Your thoughts?

There are no issues with the removal of the product should it become damaged or ?? unless the painted surface was not properly prepped. On OEM paint this has never been a concern however on repainted bumpers etc it is something to think about. Generally if repainted a lapse in time of 30 days is recomended before installation.

The biggest difference between a stellar job; one that most folks will never know is there is the installer, and then add to this the material that they use. 3M as one such an example had a problem with it yellowing after time (a couple years) this I was told was the result of a clear protective finsh (like a clear coat of sorts over paint) that was applied over the film when produced. In addition the 3M film could not be easily polished should a mar appear because it by default scratched very easy. Other products such as Venture and Maddox are a clear film with no added finish on the surface of the material as such it can be treated very much as the OEM painted surface. Wash and wax her as normal and if something happens a small scuff or marr appears a bit of mild compound such as Finesse with take out the scratches and then simply either hand wax or run a buffer over her.

The last thing I would share is that there are two primary approaches; the pre-cut pieces that like a puzzle are placed on the critical areas after which there will be several exposed seam/edge lines or the custom approach during the film is applied in a manner much akin to condom. The custom approach is what I have been using with great success.

Regardless of the approach the peace of mind that the film affords as well as the real time protection is extreme.

Takes care

Shadowman

 

[TEXAS GT]

" or the custom approach during the film is applied in a manner much akin to condom. The custom approach is what I have been using with great success."

Takes care

Shadowman[/QUOTE]

Wow! How does she get it in her mouth?? :banana :rofl

 

[B O N Y]

[/QUOTE]

Wow! How does she get it in her mouth?? :banana :rofl[/QUOTE]


More important PM her phone # :biggrin
I have used 3M and Venture clear bras and they all turn yellow and get rock pocked in the heat of the San Joaquin Valley. Sorry, but I am not sold, I have had the stuff on 4 or 5 cars which I normally keep two to three years. :ack

 

[Shadowman]

Wow! How does she get it in her mouth?? :banana :rofl[/QUOTE]


More important PM her phone # :biggrin
I have used 3M and Venture clear bras and they all turn yellow and get rock pocked in the heat of the San Joaquin Valley. Sorry, but I am not sold, I have had the stuff on 4 or 5 cars which I normally keep two to three years. :ack[/QUOTE]

I will share that I do not drive my gals very much however if they were to become yellow'd or pocked then the material can just be removed and replaced; it would still seem easier than the option of repainting.

Shadowman

 

[B O N Y]

:ack[/QUOTE]

I will share that I do not drive my gals very much however if they were to become yellow'd or pocked then the material can just be removed and replaced; it would still seem easier than the option of repainting.

Shadowman[/QUOTE]

The math works out $1000 to do first class clear shield or $1000 to repain the hood... 50 cents on way, 1/2 a buck the other. My street cars see 30k a year.

 

[w. mitty]

I just had my GT done by Clearbra. They custom cut the film, and it looks great, difficult to detect. I had them do the entire front of the car -- from the A pillars forward, and I mean everywhere. They also did the mirrors, the bottom splash panels (in between the factory installed stone guard) front to rear, the leading edge of the side scoops and behind the rear wheels. The whole project cost me $1400. I feel like it is worth the expense; the paint quality on my car was stellar and I want to keep it safe. HOWEVER, that is the irony -- the paint looks so good that I covered with plastic :bored

The film looks as good as any I have seen. It also looks better than the pre cut kit -- fewer seams and much smaller gaps between the pieces. No orange peel, bubbles or imperfections. Its just not quite as reflective as the perfect factory finish.

Ford really did do a great job of the finish of the GT, at least on my particular car.

 

[TEXAS GT]

Ford really did do a great job of the finish of the GT, at least on my particular car.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe Saleen did the paint which expalins the quality. :thumbsup

 

[fjpikul]

You are correct.