Changing the oil


HighHP said:
This link shows both the Ford and BMW versions, including the O-ring purpose for both.

FGT vs BMW Oil Filter Cap & Cage

In the late 90's and early 2000's some plastics used for Genral Motors hot engine parts deteriorated and crumbled. These problem plastic parts were changed to metal. With this in mind, I thought it might be a good idea to have a spare oil filter cap and cage assembly for my FGT, since, I could...
www.fordgtforum.com www.fordgtforum.com
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Thanks for the link. But unless I'm not understanding your thread (which is ENTIRELY possible), it still doesn't conclude whether or not to use the smaller O-ring.??
 
bonehead said:
Thanks for the link. But unless I'm not understanding your thread (which is ENTIRELY possible), it still doesn't conclude whether or not to use the smaller O-ring.??
Click to expand...
NO O ring at the end
O ring required in upper groove. The O ring in your pic is too small and won't touch the bore. You need a fatter O ring
Cage for Ford-hole between O rings should be plugged at top. Sounds like it shouldn't go anywhere, I've never looked.
 
I change the oil in our cars and do some minor wrenching here and there, but don't have a lift. Looking at the GT, it seems a bit sketching getting it up on jack stands using a floor jack. Without a lift, am I just out of luck?
 
Yes It's awkward to get it up using a floor jack and jack stands. You also have to figure out a way to get the belly panels off before you jack it up, or the jack stands will interfere with removing the belly panels.
 
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PeteK said:
Yes It's awkward to get it up using a floor jack and jack stands. You also have to figure out a way to get the belly panels off before you jack it up, or the jack stands will interfere with removing the belly panels.
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It's not difficult at all. You do not have to remove the belly pans first.

First, the best jacking point is at the center right under the B pillar where the two belly pans meet at a cross bar. The frame meets the cross bar there. There are plenty of pictures of this jack point on this forum. Lifting there will bring both wheels up at the same time. Lift high enough to get the jack stands on hockey pucks (necessary to give clearance to remove pans) but only raise to the lowest step on the stand. Then do the other side, and you can raise it to the comfortable working height. The go back to the other side and make it the same. Now the belly pans around the jack points are cleared from the overage of the jack stands with the hockey puck offset. Plenty to remove them. (I do the partial then full because it felt to me like there was too much tilt to do it all at once.)
 
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Tony, yes, that's how I got the belly panels off (before I got a 4-post lift a couple years ago), and I think it's "awkward." Certainly compared to using a lift! ;)
 
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I do it the same as Tony and I made a detailed instruction sheet for myself so I didn't have to relearn my mistakes annually. Contact me
([email protected]) and I'll attach the instructions to an e-mail.
 
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twobjshelbys said:
It's not difficult at all. You do not have to remove the belly pans first.

First, the best jacking point is at the center right under the B pillar where the two belly pans meet at a cross bar. The frame meets the cross bar there. There are plenty of pictures of this jack point on this forum. Lifting there will bring both wheels up at the same time. Lift high enough to get the jack stands on hockey pucks (necessary to give clearance to remove pans) but only raise to the lowest step on the stand. Then do the other side, and you can raise it to the comfortable working height. The go back to the other side and make it the same. Now the belly pans around the jack points are cleared from the overage of the jack stands with the hockey puck offset. Plenty to remove them. (I do the partial then full because it felt to me like there was too much tilt to do it all at once.)
Click to expand...
Thank you. I will search for a diagram or pic of the jack points. These are the jack stands I use: ESCO 10498 Jack Stand, 3 Ton Capacity, Silver, 21.5" https://a.co/d/5ZrNqxs ... am I understanding correctly that hockey pucks should be placed on top (so drill through the top and inset a bolt?). Also to clarify, I typically raise the front of the car and then raise the rear, but in this case are you saying lift the right side and position the stands, and then raise the left?
Thanks for the clarification.
 
Thanks Howard. Email sent. Thanks again.
 
The pics are here, but i keep this one in favorites, my 2 post asymmetric won’t lift the car, so i use a 4 post.
IMG_3344.jpeg
 
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The blue points are on a cross frame member where the front and rear belly pans mount together.
 
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Anyone ever try these wheel cribs from Race Ramps....
 
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Regular hockey puck from Amazon or your local sport shop. Think its a 5/16" cap head bolt. 3/4 in length. (That is a 5/16" allen wrench), so it may be a larger diameter bolt (3/8") Either will work.
Put blue painter tape(or duct tape, any tape) on your drill bit to match depth of bolt. Find center/ drill hole. Use allen wrench to screw bolt
into the hockey puck. Good for 05/06 GT.
For the 17-22 GT same hockey puck, but use ceramic disc magnets( 1/2 inch Dia) stack of 4/5 and glue into hole. The NGT has an aluminum jack pad with a steel bolt. Magnets will hold hockey puck in place(centered) to the bolt.
Race ramps also work well in getting low clearance car high enough to use a floor jack. (or make your own from 2x12 lumber- one or two stacked and staggered)
I've been using a floor jack and jack stands for 19 years to work under the GT. Yes, Pete, a 4 post or two post lift would be nice.
The wheel cribs you posted will work for getting the car up to get the floor trays off and doing maintenance, unless you need to do suspension, steering or brakes.. Floor jacks work for almost everything. Lifts are even nicer.
IMG_3167.jpeg
 
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The jacking points are squarish with round hole in center.
 
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Nafod said:
Regular hockey puck from Amazon or your local sport shop. Think its a 5/16" cap head bolt. 3/4 in length. (That is a 5/16" allen wrench), so it may be a larger diameter bolt (3/8") Either will work.
Put blue painter tape(or duct tape, any tape) on your drill bit to match depth of bolt. Find center/ drill hole. Use allen wrench to screw bolt
into the hockey puck. Good for 05/06 GT.
......
I've been using a floor jack and jack stands for 19 years to work under the GT. Yes, Pete, a 4 post or two post lift would be nice.
The wheel cribs you posted will work for getting the car up to get the floor trays off and doing maintenance, unless you need to do suspension, steering or brakes.. Floor jacks work for almost everything. Lifts are even nicer.
Click to expand...
Thank you! Really appreciate the pics!!
 
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fjpikul said:
The jacking points are squarish with round hole in center.
Click to expand...
Reached my cell phone under last night to take some pics and found them. Was going to figure a way to measure the diameter of the hole but @Nafod provided the info with pics.
This is a great forum.... really appreciate all the input!
 
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